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Old 06-14-2005   #1 (permalink)
odingalt is offline Apprentice


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Default What if you had $10g's extra for your '05 Stang...

If you had $10,000 laying around to put into the engine/tranny/rear-end/etc (the mechanical parts of the car), what would you spend it on?

What if you've never worked on an engine, just the suspension/body work?
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Old 06-14-2005   #2 (permalink)
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If it were me:

1) Saleen Super Charger + Custom Dyno Tune. $5,500.00

2) 18" Custom Wheels and Tires. $1200.00.

3) Stainless Cat back or axle back exhaust.

4) Painted stripes ( already did that one ) $1500-$2000

5) Duck Tail spoiler + paint $300

6) Leather arm rest cover $70.00

7) New sway bars, urethane bushings, panhard rod, shoks, springs, etc $1000.00

8) Preformance brake discs & Pads... $300.00 - $500.00

9) Loser Torque Converter. ( mine is an auto ) $500-$800 ( Not sure of price ? )

10) 3:55 or 3:75 gears to offset the taller tires.... ( Auto does not need as much gear )

That is probably all I would do to it......
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Old 06-14-2005   #3 (permalink)
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1.) Saleen Super Charger + Custom Dyno Tune. $5,500.00
2.) 4.10 gears $500?
3.) Pay the loan down with the remaining $4K.
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Old 06-14-2005   #4 (permalink)
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Haha!! Da oh, #3 is probably going to be on my list too.
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Old 06-14-2005   #5 (permalink)
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send it to steeda and let them have their way with her.
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Old 06-14-2005   #6 (permalink)
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build this....



then Supercharge it...
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what-if-you-had-10gs-extra-your-05-mustang-p1010094.jpg  
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Old 06-14-2005   #7 (permalink)
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Nice pic!

So without getting into the argument of whether or not you need to rebuild your engine to handle a S/C, what different parts in the engine can be direct-swapped with forged components for greater strength? And if you started changing components, when could you stop (what would be the 'weak link'?)?
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Old 06-14-2005   #8 (permalink)
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I think if we wanted to work with our current engines, swapping out the pistons would be the main issue prior to S/C. A drop in compression at the same time would allow a higher safe boost.
You know once you start down this road, 10K would not be enough. Trial & error, matching upgrades and mods. Years of time and devotion. And suddenly it's not a DRIVER anymore.
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Old 06-15-2005   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andretti
I think if we wanted to work with our current engines, swapping out the pistons would be the main issue prior to S/C. A drop in compression at the same time would allow a higher safe boost.
You know once you start down this road, 10K would not be enough. Trial & error, matching upgrades and mods. Years of time and devotion. And suddenly it's not a DRIVER anymore.
You're right! I am coming to the realization that neither Ford nor any other motor company would never give up the vital engineering info on their engines, so the only way to know where the breaking point is - is to hit it! I'm guessing that unless you're a good tuner or know a good tuner, it would be wise to install or have a motorhead install forged pistons to reduce the likleyhood that your crappy tune will blow holes in your pistons. But if you're going to put in forged pistols, you might as well upgrade the rods too while you're at it, because one is essentially pointless without the other.

By drop-in compression, what do you mean? It looks like you can change the compression depending on the kind of piston you drop in? How does that work? I think 2005 Mustangs are 9.8:1??


I found a little ditty / guideline for preparing an engine for supercharger. Here she is (I think this was in reference to LS1 bodies not Mustangs):

Pistons:
Forged pistons recommended for all applications. Cast and hypereutectic pistons can be used but should be limited to lower horsepower (approx 450-500 hp) applications.

Compression ratio:
For pump gas (91-93 octane) applications, a compression ratio of 8.5:1
to 9:1 is recommended for boost levels of 8-10 psi. Higher octane fuel
will allow you to run higher boost levels, approximately 1 psi for every
2 points of octane. To determine the maximum boost level for your
compression ratio (using pump gas), refer to the enclosed compression
ratio chart.

Heads:
The same rules for normally aspirated engines apply to supercharged
motors. Higher flowing heads will help generate more horsepower than
stock heads. Supercharging produces a percentage gain in horsepower; by starting
with more base horsepower a modified motor will receive a larger total hp gain
(from the same percentage gain).Porting, especially on the exhaust side is recommended. Aluminum heads will allow you to run approximately 1 psi more boost than cast iron
heads due to their ability to dissipate heat.

Cam:
Lobe separation: 112 to 116 degrees
Split pattern: Exhaust duration and lift approximately 10 degrees and .010, respectively, greater than intake. Install cam straight up. Contact a cam manufacturer for lifts and durations that best suit your application.

Crankshaft and rods:
Cast up to 450 horsepower, forged for higher horsepower or for rpm
levels above 6,000 rpm.

Exhaust:
Headers are recommended. The size of headers are dependent on whether you are wanting to create more low end torque or high rpm horsepower.

Intake manifold:
Dual planes are recommended to improve low end torque, however may
require staggered jetting for good fuel distribution with carbureted applications.

Carburetor :
Holley double pumper w/ mechanical secondaries.
600 cfm (#4776) for up to 500 hp
650 cfm (#4777) for up to 650 hp
700 cfm (#4778) for up to 750 hp
750 cfm (#4779) for up to 900 hp
All carburetor’s will require removal of the choke assembly and choke
horn, replacement of the floats with the solid nitrophyl floats and jetted to suit your motor.

Fuel pump (carbureted applications):
Your fuel pump must be capable of supplying the proper amount of fuel
flow at the maximum operating pressure. To determine maximum operating fuel pressure requirement, add your maximum boost pressure to your initial idle fuel pressure.

Example:
(8 psi idle fuel press.) + (10 psi boost press.) = 18 psi max. fuel press.

multiplying this figure by 1.2 (20% safety factor) gives us 21.6 psi

To determine required fuel flow, multiply your total expected horsepower
by a bsfc (brake specific fuel consumption) of .65. This will give your
fuel flow requirement in 1bs/hr. To convert to gallons per hour, divide
this figure by 5.87.

Example:
(500 boosted hp) x (.65 lbs/hr/hp bsfc) = 325 lbs/hr fuel flow

325 lbs/hr / 5.87 lbs/gal = 55.4 gals/hr fuel flow

Therefore, a fuel pump capable of providing a minimum fuel flow of 55.4
gals/hr at a pressure of 21.6 psi is required.

This can be accomplished by an all electric high pressure-high flow fuel
pump (i.e. SX #18201, B.G. 400, Magna-Flow 250 or similar type fuel
pump) and a return style, boost sensitive fuel pressure regulator
(Mallory #4309 or similar). Or by using a boost referenced mechanical fuel pump only (up to 500 hp) or a boost referenced mechanical fuel pump in conjunction with a low pressure electric pump (i.e. Holley blue, Comp 140 or similar).
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Old 02-05-2007   #10 (permalink)
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Pistons, rods 2500 installed
Vortech supercharger w/ bigger H.E. and atleast 13 ibs of boost 6000 installed.
100 shot or proflow nitrous 1000 tuned and installed.
O/R H.
Set of MT biasply dr's
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Old 02-05-2007   #11 (permalink)
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I have already spent $10K in mods opn my Stang, but if I had $10K all at one time...definitely Saleen Supercharger with upgrade kit, CAI* and exhaust*, long tubes w/X-pipe, wheels* (if not already gotton), tuner*, underdrive pulleys*, oil seperator, some engine dress up*, interior dress up* and some body mods*.

Just note, everything with an asterik, I already have, so I would be limited to getting a Saleen SC, LCAs and UCA, oil sperator, CMCV delete, long tubes, and may be a dress up item or two.
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Old 02-05-2007   #12 (permalink)
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Mr.V now how about just adding another 10K to what you have.

For me I would bullit proof the bottom heads cams blower and 9" rear
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Old 02-05-2007   #13 (permalink)
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IDK if thats 10 grand travelers

After thinking about mine id need a flywheel, clutch, driveshaft and fuel system. Thats another 2200-2750. Then the k member brace w/ torque limiters to make it shift and all the other little stuff. So basically i lied if i had ten grand id do everything i already did + gt500 fuel system and sos double pod with raptor claw, A/f and fuels pressure. Now another ten grand from now and id do flywheel clutch fuel system, botem end and heads.
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Old 02-05-2007   #14 (permalink)
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10K isn't enough, but what is?

If that were the limit, I'd spend 5-6 on an S/C or T/C and keep the HP under 450RWHP (which is plenty of fun really!)...

I'd spend the remaing 3-4K on suspension/rearend upgrades (lowering springs, UCA/LCA), driveshaft, 3.73/4.10 and tires...

10K and 450RWHP go nicely together - once you go beyond either it doubles real quick (trans, clutch, new block, head work etc...)
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Old 02-05-2007   #15 (permalink)
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Check out my sig. I have got to be at or over $10K by now. 8-10 more and I will be all done
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