Adjusted headlights and fog lights last night, BIG difference
Adjusted my headlights and fog lights last night, BIG difference, my headlights were almost two turns low, (it had gotten even worse after I lowered car) took a test drive and a second adjustment to get to my liking, but what a difference, low beams are usefull now!
to adjust, I took a large cardboard box (about as tall as hood)placed in front of headlight and measured from the headlight cover to box side about 25"
adjusters are under hood directly behind each headlight, slotted screw adjuster.
turn on low beams, garage lights off and with a narrow slotted (regular) screwdriver clockwise is up CC is down (no R or L adjustment avail. that I could find)
tips, mark a starting point line on the box where the lower part of beam cuts off (should be a distinct line/shadow) (I moved my beam almost an inch up)
mark your screw driver with a line on top of handle i.e.(Q) so you can measure total turns for other light and reference (both my lights started and ended level with each other
For fog lights, remove the plastic radiator cover (lift center pin with small screwdriver to release pins) note how it fits as you remove it,
under cover the back of fogs have a small phillips head screw adjusters on top, the adjuster are the reverse up / down as the headlights I think.
tip, leave cover off until you take a test drive for final adjustment (tape the hood prop rod down for test drive)
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Black on Black '05 Mustang GT 5 speed man. w/ stock bullitts, Eibach pro-kit, Webtronics seq. tail lights, Redline hoodlift
Adjusted my headlights and fog lights last night, BIG difference, my headlights were almost two turns low, (it had gotten even worse after I lowered car) took a test drive and a second adjustment to get to my liking, but what a difference, low beams are usefull now!
to adjust, I took a large cardboard box (about as tall as hood)placed in front of headlight and measured from the headlight cover to box side about 25"
adjusters are under hood directly behind each headlight, slotted screw adjuster.
turn on low beams, garage lights off and with a narrow slotted (regular) screwdriver clockwise is up CC is down (no R or L adjustment avail. that I could find)
tips, mark a starting point line on the box where the lower part of beam cuts off (should be a distinct line/shadow) (I moved my beam almost an inch up)
mark your screw driver with a line on top of handle i.e.(Q) so you can measure total turns for other light and reference (both my lights started and ended level with each other
For fog lights, remove the plastic radiator cover (lift center pin with small screwdriver to release pins) note how it fits as you remove it,
under cover the back of fogs have a small phillips head screw adjusters on top, the adjuster are the reverse up / down as the headlights I think.
tip, leave cover off until you take a test drive for final adjustment (tape the hood prop rod down for test drive)
Same here, gotta now adjust the lights after lowering the car with the FRPP kit. I keep thinking there was some talk on one of the threads recently, where either by MrV, SportsPix or stlwagon, reminded everyone about needing to adjust the headlights after installing a suspension/lowering kit and the discusion went into some detail as to how far away from the wall to be and approximately what height on the wall the lights needed to be adjusted to. Anybody know these details or remember the thread where this was discussed? I did a search, couldn't find what I was looking for.
thank you for posting this thread, i had no clue we were able to adjust the headlights...i'm running HID's and they are directly in people's face, people think i got my high beams on.
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07'GT/BBK headers,O/R H-pipe,Flows,Steeda CAI w/ tune,Brenspeed 91 octane tune
yea i get that a lot too especially when I'm running the driving lights. Didn't know the driving lights could be adjusted though, that's what makes this site so addictive, you learn something new everytime you get on it.
Same here, gotta now adjust the lights after lowering the car with the FRPP kit. I keep thinking there was some talk on one of the threads recently, where either by MrV, SportsPix or stlwagon, reminded everyone about needing to adjust the headlights after installing a suspension/lowering kit and the discusion went into some detail as to how far away from the wall to be and approximately what height on the wall the lights needed to be adjusted to. Anybody know these details or remember the thread where this was discussed? I did a search, couldn't find what I was looking for.
Hi GTSTANG06,
The factory manual says to do this:
Headlamp Aiming
The headlamp aiming procedure depends on the type of beam pattern the headlamp is equipped with. Vehicles may come equipped with visual optical right (VOR), visual optical left (VOL), or SAE only (includes sealed beam type) headlamps. To identify the headlamp beam pattern, look on the headlamp lens. Molded in small letters on the headlamp lens is one of the following:
SAE
VOR or SAE
VOL or SAE
Once the headlamp beam pattern is identified, aim the headlamps using one of the following methods as applicable.
Photometric aimers can aim SAE, VOR and VOL type headlamps. This is the preferred method of headlamp aiming.
Visual or screen method aiming can be used to aim SAE, VOR and VOL type headlamps.
Mechanical aimers can be used only with SAE type headlamps. Lamps that can be aimed mechanically will have three nibs molded into the lens of the lamp.
Photometric Aiming
For the photometric aiming procedure, refer to the appropriate photometric headlamp aimer instruction manual.
Screen Method Aiming
All headlamp types NOTE: Horizontal aim is not necessary for VOR or VOL headlamps. NOTE: Consult your state vehicle inspection manual for recommended tolerance ranges for visual aiming. NOTE: The sight shield may need to be positioned or removed for access to the adjusters.
Before starting headlamp adjustment:
Check the tire inflation.
Check that no other load is in the vehicle other than a half tank of fuel.
Check that the headlamps are clean.
Check for correct headlamp operation.
Check that the vehicle is on level ground.
If the vehicle is equipped with air suspension, make sure that the switch is on.
NOTE: The vertical wall or screen must be a minimum of 2.4 meters (8 feet) wide.
Park the vehicle on a level surface approximately 7.6 meters (25 feet) from the vertical wall or screen directly in front of it.
NOTE: The center of the lamp is marked either on the lens (circle, crosshair or other mark) or on the bulb shield internal to the lamp (crosshair or other mark).
Mark a horizontal reference line on the vertical wall or screen.
Measure the center of the headlamp height to ground and record.
Make a 2.4 meter (8 foot) horizontal mark (masking tape) on the vertical wall or screen at the same distance from the ground as previously recorded.
NOTE: This procedure should be done in a dark environment to effectively see the headlamp beam pattern.
Turn on the low beam headlamps to illuminate the wall or screen and open the hood.
NOTE: For SAE type headlamps, the appearance of the beam pattern may vary between vehicles.
On the wall or screen, locate the high intensity area of the beam pattern. Place the top edge of the high intensity zone even with the horizontal reference line.
VOR type headlamps
NOTE: The appearance of the VOR beam pattern may vary between vehicles.
Identify at the top edge of this high intensity area a distinct horizontal cutoff in the beam pattern. If the top edge of this cutoff is not even with the horizontal reference line, the headlamp beam will need to be adjusted.
For VOL type headlamps, there will be a distinct cutoff in the left portion of the beam pattern. The edge of this cutoff should be positioned 50.2 mm (2 in) below the horizontal reference line.
SportsPix, thanks again for the info. Made the adjustment last night in the garage and yep, they were off. Raised the headlights about 1.25 turns and the driving lights about 1 full turn. Should be much better now.
Adjusted headlights and fog lights last night, BIG difference 
