I had the Eibach Sportlines installed on my GT lst Saturday. Les Schwab's Tire performed an alignment after the installation but could not adjust the camber & caster to spec. They pulled the Ford info on the problem and Ford states to take a grinding tool to enlarge the strut-to-wheel spindle lower mounting hole and install a new cam bolts.
I took it to my Ford Dealer on Monday and they agreed that I should be able to align. Well today was my appointment. On Monday the Service Tech didn't realize that I had installed the Eibach springs so here was the big OUCH. Ford allows very little adjustment to the camber & caster so if you deviate from stock there is a 99.9% chance that you will not be able to adjust to spec. The front end was dropped and they slotted both sides rather then grinding. They said if you owned a Toyota there won't have been a problem since Toyota does slot at the factory --- they are a Toyota Dealer as well --- slotting is preferred over enlarging the holes and installing new cam bolts. It aligned perfectly after slotting.
So my "Lady" cost me another $285 for the slotting on both sides and the alignment. The GOOD NEWS is I'm STILL very happy that I did it. While I was waiting for my bill they were about 20 people swarming over my GT -- all asking "Man what did you do to it? Wow, looks sooooo nice!!"
You can't beat the looks and the handling is beyond fantastic!!!
I understand why this happens. I also understand why the rear end shifts too. What I dont understand is why this does not happen to everyone but only a few?
Do people not know or dont care?
Are sportlines a larger drop then the prokit?
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05 GT WB VERT
JLTII/XCalII w93 Tune from Evolution Performance/Steeda Ultralites/FRPP Dampers
The sportlines offer a 1.7" - 2.3" drop, but the pro-kit offers a 1.0" - 1.5" drop. Most folks have the pro-kit.
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Loudog
If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything.
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'05 GT Black w/ Drk. Charcoal, 5-speed Manual, IUP, Side Air Bags, Shaker 500, Bassani Xhaust (SS Cat-Backs w/ X-pipe), SCT XCalibrator, JLT Cold Air Intake w/DTP tune
05 GT Redfire Metallic,IUP,Red Leather Accent Package,16lb aluminum rims ,Alarm with Remote Start,Eibach Progressive springs 1.3 front 1.7 rear,C & L intake, Diabalosport predator tune 91 octane A/F 12.5, SLP loudmouths,Modded run 13.88 @ 101.3mph
Max Power = 258.69
Max Torque = 262.86
4:10's installed now but now new numbers.
I dropped mine just under an inch... my alignment is barely with in spec... so for now I'm just waiting for some one to come out with the C&C plates instead of just slotting...
I dropped mine just under an inch... my alignment is barely with in spec... so for now I'm just waiting for some one to come out with the C&C plates instead of just slotting...
I had the Eibach Sportlines installed on my GT lst Saturday. Les Schwab's Tire performed an alignment after the installation but could not adjust the camber & caster to spec. They pulled the Ford info on the problem and Ford states to take a grinding tool to enlarge the strut-to-wheel spindle lower mounting hole and install a new cam bolts.
I took it to my Ford Dealer on Monday and they agreed that I should be able to align. Well today was my appointment. On Monday the Service Tech didn't realize that I had installed the Eibach springs so here was the big OUCH. Ford allows very little adjustment to the camber & caster so if you deviate from stock there is a 99.9% chance that you will not be able to adjust to spec. The front end was dropped and they slotted both sides rather then grinding. They said if you owned a Toyota there won't have been a problem since Toyota does slot at the factory --- they are a Toyota Dealer as well --- slotting is preferred over enlarging the holes and installing new cam bolts. It aligned perfectly after slotting.
So my "Lady" cost me another $285 for the slotting on both sides and the alignment. The GOOD NEWS is I'm STILL very happy that I did it. While I was waiting for my bill they were about 20 people swarming over my GT -- all asking "Man what did you do to it? Wow, looks sooooo nice!!"
You can't beat the looks and the handling is beyond fantastic!!!
Do you (or anyone else) have pictures of this mod or the areas that were slotted? It would be great for the people (ME!) that are "do it yourselfers" to have something to look at if they're wanting to tackle this themselves. Thanks in advance!
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-2006GT Prem. (5-Speed Man.)Vista Blue. Every option except upgraded wheels. ROH Drift-R 18x9 / 18x10 Toyo T1R 285-40-18 rear and 255-45-18, Eibach ProKit, SCT X-2 and JLT (custom Vista Blue Paint!) and assorted "Dougy Tunes".
-1993 Lightning Black. Not anywhere near stock. Daily Driver, Dive Truck, etc
Technically, you can't drop the Stang without putting it back in "tune" with itself.
The front end discussed here and the rear adj panhard.
Many people are now driving around wearing out parts faster than they need to...
Never heard of an alignment being called 'putting back in "tune" with itself'
Drop the front, do an alignment. Drop the rear, recenter the rear using an adjustable panhard bar. The amount of drop will dictate the amount of headache. Get too much of a drop on the frontt and you could be outside the ability to align using slotted holes in the struts. In the rear, too much of a drop and you could need to check pinion angle and adjust using an adjust upper control arm or the bracket some have out now, or maybe even both.
Do you (or anyone else) have pictures of this mod or the areas that were slotted? It would be great for the people (ME!) that are "do it yourselfers" to have something to look at if they're wanting to tackle this themselves. Thanks in advance!
I don't have any pics, but if you've seen a strut and how it attaches to most late model spindles, it will become evident. Basically, the top bolt hole used to attach the strut to the spindle is enlongated, vertically or pararell to the ground. Depending on how much you need to get your alignment back in, a safe amount would be about an inch long total, then the width of the bolt to allow the spindle/strut to pivot on the lower bolt and provide camber. Caster is what it is, then adjust toe. I have seen pics of castor adjusters, but they ain't cheap. Way more than steeda's camber plates.
Since the spindle/strut isn't designed for a camber bolt, I can't say how effective they would be.
I don't have any pics, but if you've seen a strut and how it attaches to most late model spindles, it will become evident. Basically, the top bolt hole used to attach the strut to the spindle is enlongated, vertically or pararell to the ground. Depending on how much you need to get your alignment back in, a safe amount would be about an inch long total, then the width of the bolt to allow the spindle/strut to pivot on the lower bolt and provide camber. Caster is what it is, then adjust toe. I have seen pics of castor adjusters, but they ain't cheap. Way more than steeda's camber plates.
Since the spindle/strut isn't designed for a camber bolt, I can't say how effective they would be.
Thanks a bunch for the info! Pretty much what I figured but I wanted to make sure before grinding away. One point of clarification. You mention, vertically or pararell to the ground... Vertical is up and down. Did you mean horizontal?
Again thanks for the reply.
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-2006GT Prem. (5-Speed Man.)Vista Blue. Every option except upgraded wheels. ROH Drift-R 18x9 / 18x10 Toyo T1R 285-40-18 rear and 255-45-18, Eibach ProKit, SCT X-2 and JLT (custom Vista Blue Paint!) and assorted "Dougy Tunes".
-1993 Lightning Black. Not anywhere near stock. Daily Driver, Dive Truck, etc
Beware on Lowering Springs 
