I have lots i mean lots of wheel hop while i take off and do a burn out...it is getting annoying. What suspension parts can I put on my car so I can get rid of this wheel hop...I dont care how much i have to spend on suspension parts just as long as its gone.
First let me say welcome. You will definetly find a bunch of answers to your question. The wheel hop question has come up many times in at least a few places. Before posting a new link, try to do some searches. It keeps redundancy to a minimum.
I was able to solve the wheel hop problem with springs and shocks. I went with the full FRPP package. To tell you honestly though I haven't done a lot of drag racing, more road racing.
The best most thorough plan of attack for wheel hop would probably be as follows.
1. Springs (don't need the springs if you don't want it lower) and Adjustable shock/struts Tockico D-spec.
2. LCA (Lower control arms), there are a bunch, look on powerhouse411.com or steeda.com
3. Get some relocation bracket for the LCA again powerhouse411.com or steeda.com
4. may or may not need an adjustable panhard bar (depends on if you lower with new springs and how much).
LCAs, UCA, new panhard rod, beefier rear sway bar all will help. LCAs probably the quickest fix as they reduce the axle rotation that is one of the root causes of wheel hop.
ok now me being on budget,,,and only being able to spend a limited amount of money what would you reccomend....i guess the best bang for your buck to beef up your suspension / stop wheel hop?
ok now me being on budget,,,and only being able to spend a limited amount of money what would you reccomend....i guess the best bang for your buck to beef up your suspension / stop wheel hop?
For wheel hop, the first thing to try is lower control arms. This solves or reduces wheel hop issues for most. They're pretty cheap and anyone can install them themselves. I used BMR. www.bmrfabrication.com
For suspension there is a zillion different combinations to choose from. I chose the FRPP FR3 handling package from Ford Racing. It has new shocks, springs, roll bars and strut brace, all designed and tuned to work together. For $999 it's a very high value per dollar system in my estimation. There may be better springs and better shocks, etc, but this is an all inclusive, tuned package.
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2005 Mustang GT with 04 Cobra iron block, 300 ci, Kenne Bell 2.6l twin screw, P&P S3 Heads, SS valves, Comp S3 cams, Currie 9+ 9" rear end and DS (coming soon), Hurst shifter, BMR K-member, A-arms, LCAs & UCA, JBA long tubes & mid-pipe, Accel COPs, GT500 fuel pumps, much more... 659 RWHP, 598 Tq @ 12 psi & 5800 RPM
wow 1000 dollars. whats the highest speed you think you could handle well at...and how much would it cost to have all those parts put on?.....and what would you say is the best bet for 500-700? oh yea the website says $1150...wow
You can eliminate the wheel hop within your price range.
Adj Panhard Rod $130
LCAs w/ Poly Bushings $120
LCA Relo Brackets $130
Adj UCA $ $170
Total $550
You don't have to do springs unless you want to lower your ride. If you lower your ride, it is highly recommended that you switch out the Struts/Shocks as well and for that you will need to shop around to see what you want and can afford. I recommend the Tokico D-Specs due to adjustability, but not required. I got mine for $529. And get your hands dirty and install this stuff yourself. It's all bolt on. If you're not comfortable doing it yourself, find a friend that's mechanically inclined and do it together. You'll get the satisfaction of doing it yourself, doing it right, and saving labor costs.
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12.4 @ 111mph
Saleen S/C, Thump Tensioner, BGG 8 Rib, Kooks, Stingers, Gords, 4.10, Spec 3+, Pro 5.0, GT500 FPs, GT500 T/B, Ultralite Springs, DSpecs, Prothane Mounts, BMR - Adj. Panhard Bar, LCAs, LCA Relo Brackets, Adj. UCA, Rear Sway, Sway Delete/Rad Support
Ok this topic has come up many times. Everyone throws around different solutions for wheel hop without actually knowing how or why it happens.... they just say get some lower control arms and springs or sway bars. Does anyone know why this will solve the problem? Its as easy as this. The factory lower and upper arm have huge rubber connections surrounding where the lower and upper arms connect to the car. When the car is trying to put the power to the ground this large rubber area has alot of play and thus allows the axle to move up and down causing your wheel hop. The solution is poly bushings. These bushings are half the size and are very solid and dont give therefore not allowing the axle to jump up and down. To fix this you should replace both the lower arms and the upper arm and you may want to use relocation mounts for both. If you really want to get crazy order a set with Heim joints for the best results but be prepared for lots of road and gear noise to be transferred into the car. When someone is telling you that springs will solve the problem or somehow a sway bar will stop wheel hop they are not understanding what is causing it. Only very badly worn out springs would inhibit wheel hop and sway bars are to help stabilize the car in turns. Dont go spending $1000 on something you dont need. You can simply solve this by getting a set of lower arms, which will help greatly but if you are still not happy buy the upper arm and then you will have no wheelhop.
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2005 Mustang GT , 5-speed , Satin Silver
Mods: C&L, custom SCT tune, Stage 3 Comp Cams, Flowmasters, OR h-pipe, Steeda UDP, 4.10 FRPP gears, Zex Wet Nitrous Racer Kit, SPEC 3+ w/ alum Flywheel, Detroit True-Trac, full BMR suspension, PH alum driveshaft, M&H, SS window louvers, GTS center panel blackout
12.88 @ 106
12.03 @ 115 (75 hp shot)
Ok this topic has come up many times. Everyone throws around different solutions for wheel hop without actually knowing how or why it happens.... they just say get some lower control arms and springs or sway bars. Does anyone know why this will solve the problem? Its as easy as this. The factory lower and upper arm have huge rubber connections surrounding where the lower and upper arms connect to the car. When the car is trying to put the power to the ground this large rubber area has alot of play and thus allows the axle to move up and down causing your wheel hop. The solution is poly bushings. These bushings are half the size and are very solid and dont give therefore not allowing the axle to jump up and down. To fix this you should replace both the lower arms and the upper arm and you may want to use relocation mounts for both. If you really want to get crazy order a set with Heim joints for the best results but be prepared for lots of road and gear noise to be transferred into the car. When someone is telling you that springs will solve the problem or somehow a sway bar will stop wheel hop they are not understanding what is causing it. Only very badly worn out springs would inhibit wheel hop and sway bars are to help stabilize the car in turns. Dont go spending $1000 on something you dont need. You can simply solve this by getting a set of lower arms, which will help greatly but if you are still not happy buy the upper arm and then you will have no wheelhop.
I agree. Shocks & springs tend to help more how the car squats and than controling it.
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05 Mustang GT, Windveil Blue, 5 speed Manual, Mickey Thompson ET Street tires, SCT XCal Tuner, JEGS Line Locks, FRP 4.30 gear, C&L True CAI, Hooker Long tube headers, 12.70 1/4 mile ET, w/ 1.70 60'
help...suggestions on suspension 
