Ok I have had my 06 mustang GT convertable for 3 months
I ordered it direct from the factory from a sales person I've bought from for 10 years since I got it everyone has commented on the lack of burnout abality and the lack of acceleration it has 18" stock tires and rims I went to check my thorie and test drove a v6 and 3 more GTs with similar setups the GTs smoked my GT. I took it to the dealer they claim nothing is wrong I took the machanic out in my GT adn another similar one and even he agreed it was not right but everything checks out OK the dealer wont do anything Ford says that since car is "at operating specs" they will do nothing. The daler claims its my tires but they are the exact same as the ones I test drove. What should I do? what is wrong? I think the gave me one they Found On the Road Dead.
Wow, i have never heard of this problem before. Sounds like a software issue. maybe try buying a Cold Air Intake with a custom tune and see if that brings it out of the grave.
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2006 Deluxe GT 5 Spd Manual Tungsen Grey with black painted stripes, 20 x 10 konig beyonds, kw V3 coil over kit, BMR Chomoly Panhard rod, BMR Boxed Subrames, BMR Upper Strut, BMR lower control arms, BMR Upper Control Arm, Eibach Sway bars, Prothane Eurethane bushing kit. Bassani cat back.w/ x-pipe + hi flow cats, Roush Rear Spoiler, Street Scene Body kit,Street scene grille, 3D carbon louvers, HID system, Raptor Shiftlight with Speed of sound pillar guage, C&L with Preditor 91 Custom Tune
Faulty Traction Control Maybe... see if they can do a computer diagnosis on the road while driving. Then see if they can tell if the TCS is kicking in and so forth. Maybe the computer isn't reading the throttle position correctly, but not out enough to toss a code.
How is you fuel milage? Doe sit act any differntly with the TCS turned off?
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2006 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Intake, Evolution Performance Tune, Borla Axle Backs, Hurst Shifter, 4.10's, JBA Long Tubes, Prothane Engine Mounts, Steeda UDPs, FRPP Charge Motion Delete Plates
Do you have other Ford or Lincoln/Mercury dealers in your area? I've taken my 1994 GT to my Lincoln dealer because I felt the Ford dealer was blowing smoke, I'll do the same thing when my 2005 GT arrives... I use the Lincoln dealer as a second opinion, they'll still honor the vehicle warranty and can get the necessary parts.
scout
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2005 Mustang GT Deluxe, Torch Red, IUP
Sony KDS-R50XBR1 SXRD
Sony KDL-32S2000 LCD
Yea I agree with above. I have an 06 GT and my car rips anything in site. I can easily lite the tires up even on traction control, but it kicks in quick. Check the gear ratio.
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2006 Torch Red Mustang GT/Ridin' on 18" FR500 Black
Cervinis Ducktail Rear Spoiler.
BOSS-9 Hood Scoop
Bassani LTs/X-Pipe & SLP LoudMouths.
They call me KrAzY Kirk for a reason.
I don't know if this is practical but there's one way you can prove your car is not up to par with the other GT's take it to a dyno sure it will cost you about $75 but then you have proof in black and white that your car is not pulling how it should. By the way you should be pulling at about 255-265 at the wheels stock.
yeah, like the above posts said. check your gear ratio. or have your dealer check it. if your car is a manual, i have heard of the factory putting in the 3.23 gears in the manual gts instead of the 3.55's by accident. that would make a substantial difference in it. that car should fry the tires with the traction control off and just a quick stomp on the gas.... if thats the problem, the dealer owes you a set of 3.55s and some new gear oil...
Try calibrating the throttle. With the drive by wire, it may not be opening the throttles all the way. It is a simple thing that you can do at home. Do a search for throttle calibration.
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2006 Mustang GT Deluxe 5 speed Vista Blue with 12" white stripes, IUP, Evolution Performance 93 Tune, Hurst Shifter, Flowmaster American Thunder Axle-Back Exhaust, Sequential Turn Signals, CDC Front Chin Spoiler, CDC Shaker Ram Air
Try calibrating the throttle. With the drive by wire, it may not be opening the throttles all the way. It is a simple thing that you can do at home. Do a search for throttle calibration.
I did not know there was any ability to do a throttle calibration on a drive by wire system, I will have to look into that. I personally would recommend this: A) Hang in there, and KEEP TAKING IT BACK TO THE DEALER B) Try to be nice, and dont lose your cool with any of the people there; if you take it back a few times for the same problem, you will begin to accumulate the paperwork; you can bring all of the paperwork in, and REALLY show that there is documented proof of your complaint and dissatisfaction. The other alternative is to try another Ford dealer. I do feel bad for you though, but trust me; EVENTUALLY, you will get it fixed.
1 turn key to the running position (with the engine off)
2 Wait for the approx 3 seconds (when buzzer stops making noise)
3 Slowly push gas pedal to the floor
4 Soon as the throttle hits the floor quickly let up
5 Turn the key off
6 Wait approx 3 seconds and then start the car
If anyone knows if this procedure is incorrect please let me know
This works the throttle from fully closed to fully open and lets the computer calibrate the throtlte blades to the gas pedal position
I have done this and the car seemed to run better afterwards
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2006 Mustang GT Deluxe 5 speed Vista Blue with 12" white stripes, IUP, Evolution Performance 93 Tune, Hurst Shifter, Flowmaster American Thunder Axle-Back Exhaust, Sequential Turn Signals, CDC Front Chin Spoiler, CDC Shaker Ram Air
Hey Joshua, I feel your pain! My 06 GT has got to be the slowest car I've owned. I first thought it needed time to break in after about 1,000 miles I got a C&L intake and SCT tuner for it. It did help a little but my car is still a flat out dog. I now have 2,700 miles on my car and it's still a snail. It acts like my F-150 with a cord of fire wood in the bed.