I put everything on myself except for the tires. These installs can all be done without a helper.
Autozone rents external strut spring compressors, harmonic balancer pullers, and harmonic balancer installers for FREE- you just need to leave a deposit. Saved me about $150 in tools!
The correct balancer puller is for a Chrysler. I ended up not needing the installer, because the Steeda UDP kit came with the extra bolt, which worked perfectly.
I can't remember who posted the write-up on the UDP install, but it really helped me out- the rubber band idea made the balancer removal take a whole 8 minutes! I put my lap-top right on top of the intake plenum and just followed his instructions. Whoever you are- THANKS A MILLION! I did the whole install from the top of the car, without removing the fan. No problem getting the balancer bolt out- just used a torque wrench with the car in 4th gear and the brake on. A real easy mod to do it you have the right tools.
The X-Pipe didn't come with any instructions, but I downloaded them from the Ford Racing site. I have Flows on my car, and the car sounds different now- less burbly at idle. I seriously doubt these will affect performance very much. I think I'll get the forward clamps removed and have it welded instead. I used a hacksaw to get the old pipe out, because I am a glutton for punishment, and I wanted to prove that I can still do these things without the aid of air tools.
Air tools would have saved me about 2 hours on the spring install, but at least I got some needed exercise turning wrenches. The car sits exactly like I want now- without looking obviously lowered.
I'm getting an alignment tomorrow, and it looks like I won't be needing an adjustable panhard rod- we'll see.
The Nitto 555 Tires are awsome. I will post pics are soon as I get my camera back.
No breaker bar was necessary, but my 1/2" drive torque wrench has a handle about 26" long.
The Ford Racing X pipe kit is about $130 and replaes only the small H-pipe section with a "X". You have to cut the H pipe out because the new pipe isn;t long enough to bolt up to the cats. Clamps are supplied to clamp the new pipe in. The whole X pipe is probably not longer than 20". It's a GT350-H part.
And it looks like I will need a panhard rod- my rear end is out about 1/2".
Was that your write-up on the UDP's? I saved the link to the write-up, but don't remember where I got from it in the forum.
The UP's give about 5-10 rwhp and the X-pipe will give a nice growl.
Kudos.
I just took the car out for a a few freeway onramp runs, and boy is it fast now. The UDP's really did make a difference. The X-pipe sounds great- reminds me of some of the older V8 Ferraris. And of course, I love the Nittos. I'll take some pics on Monday. 285's? That is some WIDE rubber, man.
I just took the car out for a a few freeway onramp runs, and boy is it fast now. The UDP's really did make a difference. The X-pipe sounds great- reminds me of some of the older V8 Ferraris. And of course, I love the Nittos. I'll take some pics on Monday. 285's? That is some WIDE rubber, man.
Very cool... Wasn't my writeup on the UDPs, not sure who did that. I do think that UDPs are one of the most cost effective mods. Like you, I really could tell the difference as soon as I hit the gas.
I thought w/ the steeda ultralites installed there was no need for an alignment.
We'll see- I'm headed over there now- I'm sure that if there is an adjustment, it will be fairly small. Anytime you remove the struts on a car you should get the front end aligned.
Also- my rear-end now sits 3/8" off center to the left.
We'll see- I'm headed over there now- I'm sure that if there is an adjustment, it will be fairly small. Anytime you remove the struts on a car you should get the front end aligned.
Also- my rear-end now sits 3/8" off center to the left.
Interesting. You chose to leave the stock shocks/struts intact? Does the rear look any lower now? I'm putting on 18's soon and I wonder how bad the gap will increase w/ 255/45/18. I can't do the install myself and haven't found a shop I trust to do it for me. The shop I've used for 20+ years just closed/sold out to a Walgreens.
Any Midas shop can do the install very easily, since they regularly do strut replacements. They also do alignments, so you could have everything done there.
Your tires/my tires/the stock tires, all have the same approximate 27" tire height, so the fender clearance would be exactly the same, regardless. The rear does sit lower now. As someone else pointed out, the car is still higher in the back- but just a little, so it still looks like a muscle car. Pics on Monday.
Any Midas shop can do the install very easily, since they regularly do strut replacements. They also do alignments, so you could have everything done there.
Your tires/my tires/the stock tires, all have the same approximate 27" tire height, so the fender clearance would be exactly the same, regardless. The rear does sit lower now. As someone else pointed out, the car is still higher in the back- but just a little, so it still looks like a muscle car. Pics on Monday.
Midas huh … I wonder how they'd answer if I'll be bringing the parts I want installed. Shocks and springs that is.
It depends on the shop- some of them are cool, and some of them are not.
I went to 2 different places today to get my front end aligned. The first place had a guy that was so incredibly grease-covered, and he was soaking wet from head to toe with salty sweat. He was going to take my new car with leather seats for a test drive first, without bagging the seat or washing his hands. I left before he could get in the car.
The second place gave me a quote for $90 (I have my own camber bolts). As they were driving the car onto the machine, the sales rep told me that they were going to charge me the shop hourly rate ($97 hour) if they had to adust ANYTHING. I had them take the car off the lift, and I left very pissed. I'll try again on Monday, somewhere else.
It depends on the shop- some of them are cool, and some of them are not.
I went to 2 different places today to get my front end aligned. The first place had a guy that was so incredibly grease-covered, and he was soaking wet from head to toe with salty sweat. He was going to take my new car with leather seats for a test drive first, without bagging the seat or washing his hands. I left before he could get in the car.
The second place gave me a quote for $90 (I have my own camber bolts). As they were driving the car onto the machine, the sales rep told me that they were going to charge me the shop hourly rate ($97 hour) if they had to adust ANYTHING. I had them take the car off the lift, and I left very pissed. I'll try again on Monday, somewhere else.
Damn, that's just what I meant about the shop I used for all those years. It's tough to trust anyone. I can picture the grease covered dude right now. I take my wifes Trailblazer to the dealer and a few times it looked like big foot grease monkey drove it out. There was grease all over the friggin place. I've complained so many f-ing times it makes me sick. I've always been complimented on how clean I keep my vehicles. Since the old shop closed, the owner sent all his old customers to a new place. The guy is good I found out, but really slow and whacks you on the hourly rate.
Oh yeah- an alignment was absolutely necessary. The car did not have anyh symptoms, but camber and toe were well out of spec. I needed the adj camber bolts. All is good now.
Steeda Ultralite spring install complete 
