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Old 10-26-2006   #31 (permalink)
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so should i leave it the way it is? cause the guy said if we even them out for you, we dont take responsibility if the car doesnt drive well on the highway, they put a negative degree on purpose since it tends to pull to that side, im woundring if adjusting the camber to even them out on both sides to like half a degree or whatever, wont affect driving...
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Old 10-26-2006   #32 (permalink)
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I'd have them check it again beacuse if the specs call for -3 degrees, I wouldn't think that would be enough that you'd notice it.
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Old 10-26-2006   #33 (permalink)
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it is annoying me that i can notice like half an inch diffrence on one side, i bet no one else will notice unless i point it out, but still i would like to get this corrected, im sure other guys with frpp handling kit dont have that issue or had it fixed.
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Old 10-26-2006   #34 (permalink)
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3 degrees of camber should not be a 1/2 inch difference.
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Old 10-26-2006   #35 (permalink)
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i odnt know man, but its bugging me and i might just have them evened out or a bit off but so that its not very noticeable.
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Old 10-26-2006   #36 (permalink)
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I wish you had a shop like http://www.performance-alignment.com around there!

I can notice a differance and it was well worth the $$!!
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Old 10-26-2006   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8juice
so i just came back from the dealer, sopke to a mechanic who knows his job and finally figured out wy there is an offset in the front, its cause of the way the shop who lowered the car alignt is, they put more negative degree on one side as they usualy do cause the car do tend to sway more to one side and it keeps tire ware to minimal, but tey kind of put a bit higher degree which is not bad at all but bugs me in the eye and he said i should take it back to them and just ask for it to be even on both sides, its not a problem, cause all they did was to change te degree from the top of the wheel and its curved more in so it looks like one is more out and one is more in, but its only frmo the top cause of the way the alignment was done. gonna go back and have it fixed to be even or with a bit negative on one side.
If I understand you correctly, you have more negative camber on one side than the other. And it's enough to be able to see the difference with your eyes.

I believe Ford specifies something like -0.75 degrees camber + or - 0.5 degrees for the street. Some race cars will set uneven camber to get more traction on certain tracks, such as oval tracks where there is mostly turning on one direction and tire wear is not a significant consideration. However, I have not heard of intentionally setting different camber side to side for street driving.
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Old 10-27-2006   #38 (permalink)
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you understand exactly what i meant, yes i also didnt think there should be a noticable half inch difference, im gonna go back there and ask them to leave a bit of a degree but whatever is recommended by ford and not what they thought is better after lowering the car. so you think the negative on one side should be around - 0.5 for street?
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Old 10-27-2006   #39 (permalink)
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I'm going from my memory, so double check with Stoenr on this board, or a reference manual. But, I think the factory specifies camber to be -1.25 to -0.25 degrees. Three degrees seems too much to me.
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Old 10-28-2006   #40 (permalink)
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If you have three degrees of negative camber you will probably need camber bolts to bring it back into spec. Also, it doesn't make sense to intentionally set camber differently from one side to the other.
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Old 10-29-2006   #41 (permalink)
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so both wheels should be exactly even on both sides? no offset at all?
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Old 10-30-2006   #42 (permalink)
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Here is a useful definition: "Cross camber: The difference side-to-side between camber settings. More than half a degree difference may cause a steering pull toward the side with the most (positive) camber." Ideally it would be the same on both sides although often that isn't possible.
Here are the Roush specs which should be perfect for your situation:
camber -1.50 to -0.50.
At three degrees you're pretty far off. I would do two things: Jack the car up one side at a time, open the hood and loosen the four nuts that that attach to the strut mounts just enough so that you can move the strut. Pull the top of the strut outward (toward the fender) as much as you can (a few millimeters) and then tighten it back down. This will give you slightly less negative camber although you most likely will still need to install camber adjusting bolts to bring it into the above specification range.
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Old 10-30-2006   #43 (permalink)
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that sounds good, although im going to take it in to where they lowered my car, now the guy says they could even out the wheels although he doesnt recommend it and will not help me with any problem related to the alingment or car pulling or something like that, which is bullcrap cause i think he is trying to make me give up on it, i will ask to align the camber to original specs and as even as they can, if i look at the last alignment done on the car before lowering it(since i kept that sheet) camber settings are as follows for the front wheels: left side -0.9 degrees ,right side -0.8 degrees...does that sound like how it should be now? or since it was lowered different setting should be applied for lowered body?
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Old 10-30-2006   #44 (permalink)
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Those figures sound fine. For optimal cornering while maintaining normal tire wear you want to be as close as possible to the maximum negative camber value. In this case it is -1.5 degrees.
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Old 10-30-2006   #45 (permalink)
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thanks 65sohc...ill ask them to try and adjust both sides with the same negative as close as they can to that number
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