Hi everyone this is my first post, been following this board for some time since I got my car,been really helpful. Just had a few questions, I plan on getting a alum d/s and doing my suspension soon, and I was on the bmr website looking at uca and lca's for my car, pretty much I'm not sure on which ones to order as they offer them with different bushings and parts, I kind of just need someone to point me in the right direction on what to order, and also for the panhard bar. Thanks for any help.
Well i dont know much about them except the LCA's a little. I would say a lot of suspension choices depend on the setup. If you want a track car, a street-only car, or a drag car, etc. each setup will be different and the parts are made for that way for different reasons. If you going to put on an aluminum d/s i recommend this one (as will many other people) http://powerhouse411.com/catalog/ind...products_id=68
Other than a little more information on the vision of the car and where you want to take it and we will come up with better answers. Hope this helps
Yeah, I planned on getting the powerhouse d/s, the car is my daily driver, but I take it to our local drags on wendsdays when they have it, so its a street/drag car. Thanks
he is right. It depends on what you have planned for the car. If you already lowered it (or plan on doing so) it is recommended to get either adjustable UCA or an adjustable LCA. Most of the cars I have worked on have done an adjustable UCA, but from experience, the LCAs are easier to access once they are installed on the car. If you don't want to lower the car then I would get solid control arms. As far as the panhard bar... it functions to center the rear axle. Again, if you lower the car or need to make axle adjustments, then get an adjustable or else one side will stick out of the wheel well further than the other. Get the panhard brace along with it. The factory brace is just a stamped piece. BMR and Spohn are two very good companies. Their products up close are pretty much the same.
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2006 Black Mustang GT Coupe
Automatic Trans
8/30/2006
Flows, C&L CAI, SCT tuner from Doug, PI 3000 stall lockup converter, Pypes O/R H-Pipe, Spydershaft, Automber Cobalt Trans temp and oil pressure gauges, Innovate Wideband, SOS A-Pillar replacement, Meziere eH2O pump, FRPP 3.73s, J&M 3 Link, Pioneer Avic-D3, Grillcraft replacement grilles
Just don't get the ones with the spherical bearings. They rotate in the bracket they attach to and CLUNK all day long. It doesn't hurt anything, just sounds awful.
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2005 Mustang GT with 04 Cobra iron block, 300 ci, Kenne Bell 2.6l twin screw, P&P S3 Heads, SS valves, Comp S3 cams, Currie 9+ 9" rear end and DS (coming soon), Hurst shifter, BMR K-member, A-arms, LCAs & UCA, JBA long tubes & mid-pipe, Accel COPs, GT500 fuel pumps, much more... 659 RWHP, 598 Tq @ 12 psi & 5800 RPM
If lowered you definitely want to look at adjustable LCAs and 3rd link to maintain the proper pinion angle. You may also want to look at LCA relocation brackets if you're going to run at the track. Be careful of the BMR poly bushings. I had two fail within 6 months. I now run CHE LCAs. Much better design and require no lubrication. http://cheperformance.com/. Spherical bushings are noisy and make for a rough ride. Unless you're putting down a lot of power to the wheels, you don't really need them.
wow two BMR poly bearings fail??? that really makes me reconsider what I purchase for my car. I've only installed them and never really asked how they are doing 6 mos down the road. Che, huh?
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2006 Black Mustang GT Coupe
Automatic Trans
8/30/2006
Flows, C&L CAI, SCT tuner from Doug, PI 3000 stall lockup converter, Pypes O/R H-Pipe, Spydershaft, Automber Cobalt Trans temp and oil pressure gauges, Innovate Wideband, SOS A-Pillar replacement, Meziere eH2O pump, FRPP 3.73s, J&M 3 Link, Pioneer Avic-D3, Grillcraft replacement grilles
wow two BMR poly bearings fail??? that really makes me reconsider what I purchase for my car. I've only installed them and never really asked how they are doing 6 mos down the road. Che, huh?
CHE is a company near where I grew up in Pennsylvania. They work very closely with Mike Bowen at Powerhouse. Instead of lubricatable fittings they use prelubed polyurethane/Delrin bushings. Much more solid and maintenance-free.
If lowered you definitely want to look at adjustable LCAs and 3rd link to maintain the proper pinion angle. You may also want to look at LCA relocation brackets if you're going to run at the track. Be careful of the BMR poly bushings. I had two fail within 6 months. I now run CHE LCAs. Much better design and require no lubrication. http://cheperformance.com/. Spherical bushings are noisy and make for a rough ride. Unless you're putting down a lot of power to the wheels, you don't really need them.
Looks like ill be doing what you did, che lca's,bmr uca and rod, on the panhard rod they sell them with and without ends? Are ends something I need or does my car already have them
Looks like ill be doing what you did, che lca's,bmr uca and rod, on the panhard rod they sell them with and without ends? Are ends something I need or does my car already have them
I'd get the CHE UCA too. I would have, but my BMR was fine. As stuff fails I'll be replacing everything with CHE products. Not sure what you mean by 'with or without ends' on the panhard.
I know you weren't talking to me, and I may not understand your question, but the ends describes the material used to interface the part to the car. They are either polyurethane (soft, suitable for street) or rod ends (spherical, hard and really more for the track). When you buy the piece, you specify which type of end you want it to have. Get poly or even a poly / rod combo for a street car. I think BMR has some poly/rod combo ends for LCAs or something.
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2006 Black Mustang GT Coupe
Automatic Trans
8/30/2006
Flows, C&L CAI, SCT tuner from Doug, PI 3000 stall lockup converter, Pypes O/R H-Pipe, Spydershaft, Automber Cobalt Trans temp and oil pressure gauges, Innovate Wideband, SOS A-Pillar replacement, Meziere eH2O pump, FRPP 3.73s, J&M 3 Link, Pioneer Avic-D3, Grillcraft replacement grilles
Now I get it... Go with the poly on both ends. As mentioned above the spherical are noisy and more trouble than they're worth (wear out far faster). I also don't see much use for the poly/spherical combo.
On the panhard rod, ion bmr's website, they offer a adj panhard rod for $129 then they off I guess a chromoly adj panhard rod with rod ends for $179. Is the difference in the material the only thing? Does the $129 come with rod ends and is just not listed? Is there any more benifit going with the chromoly?
If you are going to be adjusting the pinion angle, isn't it simpler to do it if you buy non-adjsutable LCA's and an adjustable UCA? I installed a non-adjustable UCA, and now I am wishing that I hadn't, because I will have to install adn adjust 2 LCA's now, in order to adjust the pinion angle.
On the panhard rod, ion bmr's website, they offer a adj panhard rod for $129 then they off I guess a chromoly adj panhard rod with rod ends for $179. Is the difference in the material the only thing? Does the $129 come with rod ends and is just not listed? Is there any more benifit going with the chromoly?
Chromoly is just the steel compound of the rod. You don't want the rod ends. You want either the PHR005 Tubular P/R or PHR006 Tubular Adjustable P/R. Both have poly bushings.
UCA & LCA Help 
