It snowed here the other night (1"-2") and I started the car to get it "defrosted". Well 15 minutes later the car had not warmed up (engine) and the heater/defroster was ice cold. After sweeping the snow off and driving about 10 miles at a slow speed, the air in the vents finally started to heat up. Last winter the heat worked fine. This year, now the heater still blows cold. It takes about 15 miles now before the heater starts to blow warm, but not what it should. The car is running perfectly and the engine temp is normal here lately, but still ice cold air.
Any ideas where I should start? Is there a problem anyone has had with the HVAC controls or such? The Heat/Cold HVAC control is working fine on mine. Is there a valve to look for on the heater hose possibly?
Thanks!
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'05 GT, Premium Del,Redfire, built 05/05
Manual trans
Shaker 1000
IUP
Bullit's
Dark char leather
Stripe kit (still in box)
It snowed here the other night (1"-2") and I started the car to get it "defrosted". Well 15 minutes later the car had not warmed up (engine) and the heater/defroster was ice cold. After sweeping the snow off and driving about 10 miles at a slow speed, the air in the vents finally started to heat up. Last winter the heat worked fine. This year, now the heater still blows cold. It takes about 15 miles now before the heater starts to blow warm, but not what it should. The car is running perfectly and the engine temp is normal here lately, but still ice cold air.
Any ideas where I should start? Is there a problem anyone has had with the HVAC controls or such? The Heat/Cold HVAC control is working fine on mine. Is there a valve to look for on the heater hose possibly?
Thanks!
If you have already verified the coolant level, then it sounds to me like either your thermostat is stuck open or the core is clogged or blocked.
If there has been any engine work accomplished then check to make sure the heater hoses are not twisted or kinked and are connected properly.
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05 Windveil Blue GT Conv, LT Grey Int, 5 speed, IUP, Shaker 500, JBA Axle Backs, Sequential Taillights, SS Inserts Stainless Bezels, Shelby GT500 18x9.5 Chrome Rims with P-Zero Nero M+S 255/45-18 (front) and P-Zero Nero M+S 285/40-18 (rear).
Check your heat/cold blend door actuator fuse. It should be a 10amp fuse. Look at your owners manual to be sure. When the car is running and the the temp gauge is showing normal range, switch back and forth from hot to cold on your temperature controls...if there is no drastic change, that would be the first place I'd look.
There will be other circuits tied into that fuse as well, I'm not sure though speed control sensor, rear window defrost, ABS module. Who knows? Just look for the heat door blend actuator fuse on your owner's manual diagram.
I don't have a new generation Mustang yet..but I have two classics, just cable controls there!
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"yeah though I walk through the valley of the shadow of rice, I will fear no turbo for torque art with me. Thy rods and thy crankshaft, they comfort me."
I agree with the above posts, but with only 15k on her, I'd make the dealership find the problem. Assuming you have a decent dealership / service dept, it's definitely worth letting them handle it. If it blew a fuse, it may be no big deal, but if it keeps blowing it, there's a problem for sure. If it's a clogged heater core or defective switching apparatus, it could be a royal PITA to get to, and that's why they have warranties.
my .02
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2005 Satin Silver GT 5spd, IUP, ICAP, bullits, active alarm, lug locks, side a!rbags, shaker 500, XM Roady 2, JLT cold air, Xcal2 w/ SCT 93 oct tune, & custom fab'd ram air duct, BMR Sway Bars, Hurst Competition plus shifter
Custom blackout on hood and trunk with Steeda street wing and Ford Racing hood pins
I agree with the above posts, but with only 15k on her, I'd make the dealership find the problem. Assuming you have a decent dealership / service dept, it's definitely worth letting them handle it. If it blew a fuse, it may be no big deal, but if it keeps blowing it, there's a problem for sure. If it's a clogged heater core or defective switching apparatus, it could be a royal PITA to get to, and that's why they have warranties.
my .02
Ditto, I doubt it due to the low miles, but since it was bitter cold when it happened I'd look at the strength of the antifreeze, maybe it actually froze in the heater core. That would make the car run hot though I'd think. Let the dealer worry about it.
Well after I was able to take a look, I diagnosed the problem on the girl. I found that the plastic radiator cap (located on the plastic coolant resivor) is defective, allowing coolant to leak out to the tune of 1 gallon (this is over a 6 week period). This is my wifes DD and she did not smell anything. I found that the yellow coolant really does not have an odor to it. So, along with coolant dried all over the top of the motor, I found that the radiator tank cap is very loose and will not tighten down properly, it will keep popping off the threads. After about six tries, I was able to get it to the safety clicks built into the cap and get it tight. I will call the dealer tommarow and check on the cost of a new one. I would like to get the tank and cap replaced.
For those of you recommending warranty, our dealerships service department here in Durango are a bunch of F***tards. So they are not touching my car. AND if it is major, then I will be taking it to New Mexico where a good friend there is a tech at a dealership there.
Thanks for all the replies, the heat coming out of the vents is nice and toasty now!
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'05 GT, Premium Del,Redfire, built 05/05
Manual trans
Shaker 1000
IUP
Bullit's
Dark char leather
Stripe kit (still in box)
after a loss of a gallon, did the car not run hot? One of my older cars lost about a gallon of coolant and the temp went way up on the gage and it started knocking. (I knew it was leaking but was too hard-headed and poor to call the tow truck, limped it to within a radius of home to have a reasonable tow bill)
Heater stays cold 
