Hi Just an update, I finally got around to installing my headers and came across a snag. I was able to get the old system out completely but was having trouble getting the drive side header in place. The passenger side slid in like a dream. I raised the engine and removed the motormounts but when installing the drivers side header I keep running into the steering column and the dipstick tube. I need help if anybody knows how to remove either I would greatly appreciate it.
The bolts on the front of the rack are tight as hell and are almost impossible to remove.
I have no idea how to get the dipstick tube out of the way. Help!!!!
The bolts on the front of the rack are tight as hell and are almost impossible to remove.
Just noticed this comment. You have to remove the bolts from the top of the rack. The nuts on the bottom are actually tack welded to the rack. Found that out the hard way.
From the TOP are you kidding me?? That makes so much more sense I might try it again this weekend when I get to play under the stang again, till then I'm driving my girlfriends focus.
If the bolts are on the top if i can get those out hopefully it'll be okay, now about the dipstick???
From the TOP are you kidding me?? That makes so much more sense I might try it again this weekend when I get to play under the stang again, till then I'm driving my girlfriends focus.
If the bolts are on the top if i can get those out hopefully it'll be okay, now about the dipstick???
Yep, no kidding... I struggled with those bolts for almost an hour before I figured that out. As for the dipstick tube, there's just a little bolt that holds it. It comes out pretty easy. Or, if you're careful, you might be able to just slightly bend it out of the way.
From the TOP are you kidding me?? That makes so much more sense I might try it again this weekend when I get to play under the stang again, till then I'm driving my girlfriends focus.
If the bolts are on the top if i can get those out hopefully it'll be okay, now about the dipstick???
Have a rubber mallet ready when you get back under there. They're torqued down pretty good. I was able to get my power wratchet in there ~90-100ftlbs and the damn things wouldn't budge. My daddy always said that if it doesn't work the first time...get a bigger hammer.
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12.4 @ 111mph
Saleen S/C, Thump Tensioner, BGG 8 Rib, Kooks, Stingers, Gords, 4.10, Spec 3+, Pro 5.0, GT500 FPs, GT500 T/B, Ultralite Springs, DSpecs, Prothane Mounts, BMR - Adj. Panhard Bar, LCAs, LCA Relo Brackets, Adj. UCA, Rear Sway, Sway Delete/Rad Support
All you have to do is loosen the passenger side bolt and remove the drive side bolt. Loosening the passenger side allows the rack to pivot on that bolt. You should be able to get a couple of long 1/2"dr extension to access the driver side rack bolt. You might be able to do it from tthe topside. Much easier with an air compressor and 1/2" impact. There is only one bolt on that helps to retain the dipstick up near the valve cover. Remove that bolt and slide the tube out of the engine. When you put the tube back in a spacer may be needed to space the tube away from the headers. The spacer goes under the bracket which retains the tube.
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Sold:('86 GT Jalapeno Red 'vert, 200,000 miles Lots of Mods!!!!
2006 Mustang GT
C&L Racer, Eibach, SCT, CHE, CMCV Deletes, PRP, 4:10s on the way.
New toy:
1989 Mustang 2.3L Auto. 5.0 waiting in the garage...
Have a rubber mallet ready when you get back under there. They're torqued down pretty good. I was able to get my power wratchet in there ~90-100ftlbs and the damn things wouldn't budge. My daddy always said that if it doesn't work the first time...get a bigger hammer.
Actually, they have a good bit of thread locker on them as well as torqued very high...All I can say is long breaker bar for me.
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2006 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Intake, Evolution Performance Tune, Borla Axle Backs, Hurst Shifter, 4.10's, JBA Long Tubes, Prothane Engine Mounts, Steeda UDPs, FRPP Charge Motion Delete Plates
Hey guys thanks for all the advise and help. I can't believe its only three bolts (Two in the rack and one on the dipstick) that have my stang down and not driving on the streets. Although I did start her up. LOUD as HELL!
Alright the weekend is here and I'm itching to get this stang on the road again. I took some pictures of the bolt just so I know I'm getting the right one. This is the bolt on top of the rack on the drivers side. I went to autozone and rented a breaker bar and thought about looking for my torch to possibly heat the area around the bolt to loosen it. Its worked for me in the past.
Alright the weekend is here and I'm itching to get this stang on the road again. I took some pictures of the bolt just so I know I'm getting the right one. This is the bolt on top of the rack on the drivers side. I went to autozone and rented a breaker bar and thought about looking for my torch to possibly heat the area around the bolt to loosen it. Its worked for me in the past.
You got it! Good luck and let us know how it goes.
So heres how it went. No good. Alright well to recap got the old system out and the new one in. Both headers are in but the drivers side won’t completely bolt on. I’ve got 6 of the 8 bolts to go on, the two that didn’t fit were on the bottom closest to the back of the car. I know the header is aligned but it just won’t go in. The dipstick tube is completely in the wrong place so is there anyway I can remove it? Also since the tube is in the way it won’t allow for the drivers side motor mount to be put back in place.
Need any kind of help!
Thanks in advance
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2006 Mustang GT Windveil Blue
Borla Cat-back System| Borla Long Tube Headers| Steeda Tri-Ax Short Throw Shifter| Roush Quarter Window Louvers| JLT II CAI| Bamachips 93 Torque/Race Tune| Eibach Sway Bars| Eibach Prokit| Shaftmasters Alum. D/s 3.5in| CHE Adj. UCA
Ugh... May want to try starting with the back two bolts and work your way forward, hand tight until you get them all in and started. What's the problem with the dipstick tube? Did you remove it during the install?
With the dipstick I never removed the tube but rather I just bent it forward. Now I can't bend it back in place. But even if I could it needs to be between the second and third pipe, but it can't cause the borla is completely flush with the engine. I read on another webpage that the dipstick tube is pressed into the engine block and can be removed if you heat the base. I think I may try that, any other suggestions? Anybody?.....
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2006 Mustang GT Windveil Blue
Borla Cat-back System| Borla Long Tube Headers| Steeda Tri-Ax Short Throw Shifter| Roush Quarter Window Louvers| JLT II CAI| Bamachips 93 Torque/Race Tune| Eibach Sway Bars| Eibach Prokit| Shaftmasters Alum. D/s 3.5in| CHE Adj. UCA
There's a bolt that hold the dip stick. Remove it and then you can pull the dipstick out of the motor. It'll take a little bit of tugging at the base of the pulley, but it will pop out. Once the drivers side head is in place, you can guide the dipstick back in place.
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12.4 @ 111mph
Saleen S/C, Thump Tensioner, BGG 8 Rib, Kooks, Stingers, Gords, 4.10, Spec 3+, Pro 5.0, GT500 FPs, GT500 T/B, Ultralite Springs, DSpecs, Prothane Mounts, BMR - Adj. Panhard Bar, LCAs, LCA Relo Brackets, Adj. UCA, Rear Sway, Sway Delete/Rad Support
yea, there is a bolt that holds the clip attached to the dip sick against the motor, bit the tube itself is held into the oil pan by an O-ring. Just give it a good tug and it will come out.
I wish you were closer... I have done this twice and never had issues with the drivers side... just one bolt on the passenger side.
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2006 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Intake, Evolution Performance Tune, Borla Axle Backs, Hurst Shifter, 4.10's, JBA Long Tubes, Prothane Engine Mounts, Steeda UDPs, FRPP Charge Motion Delete Plates
