What a nightmare, suddenly my 2 piece DS doesn't seem to bad...
I know of two of those that have snapped... and only one aluminum one.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
Sorry to hear about this, and I hope eveything works out for you.
And for everyone else, I would highly advise a driveshaft loop(s) whenever you have substantially increased the torque/power and/or you switch to an aftermarket driveshaft.
And for the track it's an NHRA requirement for cars that do better than a 13.99 1/4 mile on slicks or a 13.00 on street tires. Though I'm not convinced that it's always enforced. It is here at Budds Creek.
And for the track it's an NHRA requirement for cars that do better than a 13.99 1/4 mile on slicks or a 13.00 on street tires. Though I'm not convinced that it's always enforced. It is here at Budds Creek.
One of the two tracks I run at does check for the loop (I run slicks).
Quote:
Originally Posted by stlwagon
Was the aluminum one a Powerhouse??
No, it was the one in this thread.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
I'm scheduled to bring it in to a Ford Dealership tomorrow. Can anyone else post their thoughts? My car already has the 4.10 gears installed and a Bamachips tune. Wouldn't I be better off getting Ford to do a thorough inspection since ideally it should be covered by the responsible shop? Otherwise I wonder whether I would need to take it to a body shop as well as a mechanic shop. Is this extra work worth the piece of mind of having Ford analyze the damage?
Also, the horsepower is just a bit more than stoke, only the engine tune, CAI, and axle-back exhaust, UD pullies...
Last edited by My05; 02-20-2007 at 07:27 PM.
Reason: Added info
I agree with the idea that the drive shaft was balanced improperly. sorry if I don't give credit to the person who suggested this earlier in the post.
every drive shaft I have seen had weights stuck to the shaft to balance it. I would suspect if they grind away at the shaft, that could have been the weak point for the shaft to fail.
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2005 Mustang GT M5 -I reject your reality and substitute my own-
it is very hard to re-balance and check a drive-shaft to exact tolerance. i think that drive shaft should have been replace right away when you had back the first time. trying to shave here and there is a very lousy thing to do in my opinion. if everything fits the way it should there is no reason to shave here and there. it may be possible that they didn't retighten the drive shaft bolts, or maybe they replaced the bolts. the original bolts should have lock tight in the thread. if the bolts are still there check for that. i would go back to that place and open up a can of whoop-ass or bust a cap on em. because your vehicle was not doing that before. so pretty sure is got everything to do with the drive shaft.
In terms of damage, the best I could see last night is that the d/s was still attached at the transmission and rear end side, but it broke in the center. The car is an hour away and I'll be towing it in the morning so I'll be able to post some pics tomorrow.... that ought to be fun...
I'm also sorry for your problem. I used to work at a drive shaft shop and you never grind or shave anything off unless your checking for balance. we used to rebuild and build new shafts and I have never heard of a shaft coming apart form vibs. twists yes as yours has. By the info I take it it came arprt in the center of the shaft. If you hold the tollerances to .005 when welding the shaft together no balance is required. The reason for balancing is because the shaft is not centered on the end yokes and thats the only way to get the vibs out because of assembley tollerances.
You said they turned it 180* so they thouht it was out of phase which is not possable with a one piece shaft. Only with a two or more system is it possable to get it out of phase whic is the U-Joints not lined up exactly the same.
There is a ridge on the flanges that fit in the other flange and if not installed and seated properly it will vibrate.
The shop I worked at was a Dana /Spicer distributor for 11 years that I worked there.
I hope this info will help, good luck
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07 REDFIRE GT 5 SPEED 3.55 gears
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