In terms of damage, the best I could see last night is that the d/s was still attached at the transmission and rear end side, but it broke in the center. The car is an hour away and I'll be towing it in the morning so I'll be able to post some pics tomorrow.... that ought to be fun...
So it didn't break at the spline? Weird... Could you tell if there what damage, if any, there was to the tunnel?
Me too thought it was the gear/diff/pinion that failed first... just can't see where the pressure would come from to break the DS in the middle unless it's of very poor quality and was unballanced... bowing in the middle...??
Keep us posted!!
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KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations
And they should. You snap a shaft without one and you could very well impale yourself
I agree. I ran two Metco loops on the stock DS (even before the blower and slicks) just for the safety factor. Now I have one BMR loop on the single shaft.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
I agree. I ran two Metco loops on the stock DS (even before the blower and slicks) just for the safety factor. Now I have one BMR loop on the single shaft.
Did your BMR just install from underneath or did you have to pull the carpeting? My CHE loop just screwed right into the sheet metal.
Did your BMR just install from underneath or did you have to pull the carpeting? My CHE loop just screwed right into the sheet metal.
Just from underneath the car. As I recall, it uses existing bolts.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
The beginning… I had the aluminum driveshaft installed by Jaws Gear in Sacramento, CA within the last month. The first time around when I started up the car and pulled it out of the garage it rattled the whole car, especially the windshield. I figured it was going to settle in since this is the way they handed me the car (apparently they hadn’t had any other problems on their installs and hadn’t tested the car). After driving it for a day or two I brought it back in to get looked at.
They rotated the d/s 180 degrees and gave it back to me. There was still too much vibration at 70mph+ so I took it back again. This time the shop that makes the driveshaft tested to make sure it was balanced, shaved a little off somewhere, but said it was balanced. When the shop went to reinstall it they noticed that the adapter they used didn’t sit right, they tried to shave off the part that caused it to sit wrong but were unable to. So they went in and installed u-joints. Now it ran smoother.
Then it happened…
You've had serious problems since the install, if it was vibrating bad enough to rattle the windshield, that's not something that will ever settle in..
The part about the adapter not sitting right, them trying to shave it and that didn't work, so they installed new u joints??? I don't understand that.
Yes I have never heard of there troubleshooting process before. What they did to try and fix it seem to me to be rookies who never installed a driveshaft before. I wouldn't have gone 50' with it like that. If nothing else I would have put the old shafts back in till they figured out what was going on.
In fact he should do that if the trans and rear check ok till someone determins what happened.
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07 REDFIRE GT 5 SPEED 3.55 gears
C&L Racer CAI XCAL2/Seq signals/GTAs/Steeda UDP/CHE K Member Brace W/Torq Links/J&M LCA/Spider DS/PRO.50 Shifter Hurst handle & "T"/Meziere EO2/ARH LT catted H /Prothane MM/Delet Plates/SLP BOSS 429 Scoop/Accel COP/PowerSlot/Hawk Pads/Tokico D-Spec/CHE Panhard Bar Brace/Steeda Adj. Panhard Bar/BMR F/R Sway Bars/Cervini ducktail spoiler/BMR UCA Mount/CHE UCA/GT\CS Rear Cover/AMChrome Bullets 18x9/10s/Nitto 255/45&295/45
Tillman Dyno Tune 307HP/322TQ
Hmm I have deffently reassessed my position on the usefulness of ds loops! Sorry about your car and best of luck getting it fixed and getting reimbursed for it!
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05 - Zeon body kit, Saleen S/C, 3.6" pully, 90mm MAF, L/T Heders, Catted X-Pipe, Saleen Race Craft suspension, Axel brace, Pan hard bar. More to come this spring from my friends at PMP and Larry H.
65 - Street force coil over front suspension, Wilwood disk breaks at all 4 wheels, More construction in progress! More to come this spring from Simons Auto & Restoration!
Finally pics, the car has not been put up on a lift yet so these are just ones I was able to take with the car on the trailer...
As you can see it cracked the transmission wide open, the d/s appears to have broke at the yoke (I think its called - where the larger part of the d/s meets the smaller diameter portion that attaches to the transmission).
The tunnel was beat up enough that it bent both rails that the seats slide on so both seats have difficulty moving. We'll see tomorrow what a general estimate looks like.
I hope the installer and/or manufacturer have insurance... get a new 6060 6-speed, PH driveshaft, a built rear end if you can squeeze that and a new exhaust as I can see it was damaged...
Hopefully the chassis part can be knocked out? And it better be perfect as your car looks brand new under!! Maybe you washed iot for us...?? lol
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KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations
you can't put a soild drive shaft in a 06 stang.when the car goes up and down the drive shaft needs to slip in and out.the drive shaft in the pic looks soild no slip yoke.the car went up and down bending the shaft.trans or rear end is broke to.look at the drive shaft on pandjspeedshop.com and you will see the small end slides in the bigger end giving you slip so when the goes up and down it don't brake.the guys that in stalled the shaft should be kick in the balls.
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because a engineer said so!! 93lx street car 8.81@153 and 93lx 10.5 car[ 7.21@182 new record for me]
