Think I am going to put some loops on my car, even though I am using the stock D/S in which I will stick with.
What loop(s) are recommended that can e installed without any drilling or lifting the interior carpet or trim?
Man, I feel bad this happened to him.
This is what I used when I had the stock driveshaft. Two pieces, one for the front of the 1st driveshaft, and one for the front of the second driveshaft (tunnel brace)--BMR--uses existing mounting points, no drilling at all.
I only use the front loop now because I have the Powerhouse 1-piece shaft.
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Paul
Daily driven 2005 GT AUTO - Whipple @ 16psi - 577 rwhp 519 rwtq
Best 1/8th mile: 6.740 @ 101.56 mph with a 1.431 60' time
Best 1/4 mile: 10.672 @ 128.42 mph with a 1.480 60' time Special thanks to:
ST Motorsports, San Bernardino CA - built engine and tune
Larry's Transmission, Corona CA - built 5R55S
M&H - 325/45/17 racemaster drag radials
GI Joe - 8 rib pulley kit
Thump_rrr - billet tensioner
This is what I used when I had the stock driveshaft. Two pieces, one for the front of the 1st driveshaft, and one for the front of the second driveshaft (tunnel brace)--BMR--uses existing mounting points, no drilling at all.
I only use the front loop now because I have the Powerhouse 1-piece shaft.
Thanks, looks like a nice well made set.
D
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07 Mustang GT Vert, 5 sp - Redfire His Toy
08 Chevy Silverado 5.3L ExtCab-Deep Ruby Metallic
05 Mustang V6 Coupe, 5 sp - Redfire(Her Toy)
08 Hyundai Elantra - Dark Gray (Her Daily)
Me - Her Toy. Proud member of the MrV. PPR Club
NHRA safety rules require a driveshaft safety loop on any vehicle running quicker than 13.99 on slicks or 13.00 on street tires.
Hmmm... that doesn't sound correct to me. But, I don't have my NHRA rule book with me. My recollection is that a loop is required: (1) for cars running 11.49 or quicker, or (2) with slicks, no matter what the ET. I've never heard of the "13.00 on street tires". Maybe that's just your local track rules.
Quote:
Originally Posted by psfracer
This is what I used when I had the stock driveshaft. Two pieces, one for the front of the 1st driveshaft, and one for the front of the second driveshaft (tunnel brace)--BMR--uses existing mounting points, no drilling at all.
I only use the front loop now because I have the Powerhouse 1-piece shaft.
My original Metco loops were similar. The were a direct bolt-on from under the car, without even removing the DS. Very simple install, and excellent fitment. But, the Metco loop wouldn't work with the Powerhouse shaft, so I sold them and bought a used BMR front loop.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
Hmmm... that doesn't sound correct to me. But, I don't have my NHRA rule book with me. My recollection is that a loop is required: (1) for cars running 11.49 or quicker, or (2) with slicks, no matter what the ET. I've never heard of the "13.00 on street tires". Maybe that's just your local track rules.
Adjustment to E.T. requirements
In a move designed to encourage more street vehicles to compete on the quarter-mile, NHRA has revised its requirements for roll bars, SFI Spec clutches, driveshaft loops, driver restraints, and certain protective clothing. Beginning Jan. 1, 2005, a roll bar and an SFI 16.1 driver-restraint system will be mandatory on any vehicle running 11.49 or quicker and for convertibles running 13.49 or quicker. An SFI 3.2A/1 jacket will be mandatory for all drivers in vehicles running between 10.00 to 11.49 seconds. On any car running 11.49 or quicker, a flywheel and clutch meeting SFI Spec 1.1 or 1.2 and a flywheel shield meeting SFI Spec 6.1, 6.2, 6.3, or 9.1 will be mandatory. A driveshaft loop will be required on all cars running 13.99 or quicker and utilizing slicks, except vehicles equipped with street tires running 11.49 or slower
So how hard are they on all these rules... had a guy tell me I need a helmet, which I had but had taken it off after the run... and I have seen guys driving high 10's in verts without a roll cage...
I guess it is up to the track and outside of competition...??
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Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations
A driveshaft loop will be required on all cars running 13.99 or quicker and utilizing slicks, except vehicles equipped with street tires running 11.49 or slower
Yep... that's what I thought.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kj_cinci
So how hard are they on all these rules... had a guy tell me I need a helmet, which I had but had taken it off after the run... and I have seen guys driving high 10's in verts without a roll cage...
I guess it is up to the track and outside of competition...??
It's really up to the track. I frequent two 1/8-mi tracks on a regular basis. One is fairly strict, the other isn't at all. The track that is strict has warned me about running below 7.50 without a cage, and they always check under the car for the DS loop. The also make sure the helmets are SNELL 2000 or better. The other track is more fun. haha.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
Finally pics, the car has not been put up on a lift yet so these are just ones I was able to take with the car on the trailer...
As you can see it cracked the transmission wide open, the d/s appears to have broke at the yoke (I think its called - where the larger part of the d/s meets the smaller diameter portion that attaches to the transmission).
The tunnel was beat up enough that it bent both rails that the seats slide on so both seats have difficulty moving. We'll see tomorrow what a general estimate looks like.
any new finding on the damage and repair.
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07 Mustang GT Vert, 5 sp - Redfire His Toy
08 Chevy Silverado 5.3L ExtCab-Deep Ruby Metallic
05 Mustang V6 Coupe, 5 sp - Redfire(Her Toy)
08 Hyundai Elantra - Dark Gray (Her Daily)
Me - Her Toy. Proud member of the MrV. PPR Club
Did anyone see the episode of Forza Motorsports on Speed Channel this week? There is a nice in car video of what happens when a driveshaft lets go on a road course. In this case it was the Year One Challenger. That's one mod I can take off my list.
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2009 GT500, Vista blue w/ white stripes, C&L intake,VMP tune, Corsa exhaust, Griggs Racing ST suspension, Saleen Heritage wheels
Did anyone see the episode of Forza Motorsports on Speed Channel this week? There is a nice in car video of what happens when a driveshaft lets go on a road course. In this case it was the Year One Challenger. That's one mod I can take off my list.