[geezerbutler]

I have an appointment to have the Eibach Pro Kit (lowering springs) for 2005+ models installed.

I am just doing springs right now, the adjustable struts will come later.

Here's several questions for those of you that have lowered your 2005 + Mustangs.

I was wondering if I may as well have an adjustable panhard bar on hand as well as BMR replacment "upper strut mounts" (I've only seen this mentioned on their own website)

Also is the eibach alignment kit a necessity?

What about upper and lower control arm relocation brackets and or replacement front and rear sway bars?

BMR says that anytime you remove the strut you need to replace the one time use plastic strut mount you just removed.

I don't want to drive away with a lowered ride but not really have installed everything I needed to.

I figure a question (or 10 ) answered here prior to a parts purchase or install saves megabucks in the long run.

Anyhelp is much appreciated.

Just an FYI on that BMR part

This is from the BMR website

Upper Sturt Mount$24.95 USD"Unlike most strut-equipped vehicles, your S197 Mustang comes with throw-away plastic upper strut mounts that are only good for one-time assembly. Fords service manuals specify replacing this part anytime the strut/spring assembly is disassembled. Re-use of original strut mounts often result in a "popping" sound heard while turning. This is the result of lost bearings due to the strut mounts weak plastic carrier.
This item is sold as Each and would need to purchase TWO to completely change BOTH sides."

Thanks

[stlwagon]

An adjustable PR is almost a must. You should also look at adjustable LCAs and an adjustable 3rd link to maintain proper pinion angle. Camber bolts or plates are also very likely to be needed as there is no camber adjustment with the stock setup.

[geezerbutler]

So basically there are many additional parts that have to be modified for everything to continue in harmony, after swapping out the springs?


Is the 3rd link you referred to the (one) upper control arm?


If I'm grasping all of this correctly


I will need (in addition to the springs and camber kit)

1. Adjustable panhard bar (1)

2. Adjustable? lower Control arms ( 1 pr)

3. Upper control arm (1)

In your experience, will I be good to go with the installation of these items and the springs?

And once all this is installed how do you measure the "Pinion Angle" to make sure it's correct?

Thanks

[stlwagon]

Originally Posted by geezerbutler

Is the 3rd link you referred to the (one) upper control arm?

That is correct

If I'm grasping all of this correctly

I will need (in addition to the springs and camber kit)

1. Adjustable panhard bar (1)

2. Adjustable? lower Control arms ( 1 pr)

3. Upper control arm (1)

In your experience, will I be good to go with the installation of these items and the springs?

And once all this is installed how do you measure the "Pinion Angle" to make sure it's correct?

Thanks

That's pretty much it plus a good alignment when you're done. You'll need a gauge to measure pinion angle off the pumpkin. You can pick one up at Autozone.

[family_truckste]

Originally Posted by stlwagon

An adjustable PR is almost a must. You should also look at adjustable LCAs and an adjustable 3rd link to maintain proper pinion angle. Camber bolts or plates are also very likely to be needed as there is no camber adjustment with the stock setup.

Agree....adjustable panhard is mandatory when you lower the car or the axle will shift (I seem to recall it goes to the passenger side about an inch and a half). The net effect is the car will look like it's crab walking if you don't replace the panhard.

The LCAs and UCA aren't technically mandatory but you should strongly consider adjustable LCA's to correct the pinion angle (angle from differential to drive shaft) after the drop. You don't really need to do both and the LCAs are easier to put in so I'd recommend those.

The alignment is debated but I can tell you the car is fine without an alignment or camber plates. If you're going to use it as a daily driver, then both of those things will save you money down the road by reducing tire wear. I didn't do either and it tracks fine and handles great.

[geezerbutler]

Also what will the ride be like with just the new springs, the panhard Bar , and the LCA's compared to a stock GT?

I am a little nervous about getting this whole thing right, but i am going to go through with it!

Thanks

[88_stanga]

after i lowered mine a brought to work and aligned it. it does have camber adjustments. mine was cambered in just under a half degree so i left it for cornering. no crazy tire wear either. but you can buy strut bolts to replace the factory ones. they are smaller and slightly offset so you can push the strut in or out to compensate for the camber change

[kj_cinci]

The rears will be out to the left, driver side. Adj PH Bar will fix that. Not needed unless you're a prefectionist or drive HARD.

Camber will adjust okay without plates or bolts. Mine is still .13 off but I can't tell and there is NO extra wear on tires.

It will ride okay with springs alone. It will be lower, of cource, and abit harder.

All pieces above are good but not neccessary! If you're not a drag strip runner I'd get Tokicos before LCAs and UCA.

I have, and may be alone, bump steers.

YOU MUST ALIGN! Preferably by a performance shop and not you average tire place...

[5twenty]

Originally Posted by kj_cinci

Camber will adjust okay without plates or bolts. Mine is still .13 off but I can't tell and there is NO extra wear on tires.

I have, and may be alone, bump steers.

Are the bump steers caused by the camber being off a bit?

[kj_cinci]

I have bump steers added to my suspension to avoid them... my camber is so close it should not matter for anything... this is from Performance Alignment that used to work on NASCAR and even F1 cars...

[johney5]

The tockicos are the most important plus, the rest is un-necasary. However, your lowered car will look cooler, and drive great on smooth surfaces..but it's a real pain when you hit a pothole, speedbump etc. I would say look for a slightly less lowered spring then the eibach...I think Steeda makes one.

[geezerbutler]

So it sounds like you have the new Steeda Strut Tower Brace.

http://www.steeda.com/products/heavy...nts_street.php

I was looking at this on their website and asked the following question over there as well.

What are the advantages to installing these at the same time as I install the springs?

Is it that the stock strut braces just don't hold up that well after the car has been lowered?

Also, how is the handling in your mustang compared to stock with all of the suspension components you've added?

What about the ride, say going on a 400 mile round trip, is it comfortable, tolerable, etc?

Looking back on it do you wish your car weren't lowered as much as the Eibach prokit did?

Thanks for your post

[kj_cinci]

I'd say the Eibach Pros are comfortable enough, just a bit harsher than stock. I made the misstake of going with a 19" rim... that changed things!!

Our Mustangs are quite stiff and the tower brace don't do much other than look cool...

[geezerbutler]

So it sounds like you wish you had smaller wheels, say 18"?


I meant to ask you about the Steeda Heavy Duty Upper Strut Mounts.

Is this what you have ?

Thanks

[kj_cinci]

No I'm used to it now and the Tokicos really help!! But yea, if I had a do over I'd probably go 18's and light weight... I'd probably just go with the stock fan blades and when they go low put as wide rubber as I could... then I'd have 8 wheels at home for racing... skinnies and really wide ET's plus a set for the twisties on 'cheap' rims...