Okay got it, I see they are 2 seperate items. now I see where J & M's have a hard sperical inner bushing and soft outer cups. Are these a good product or do the majority use the same and what is that brand.
Also can this be done with a hyd. floor jack, and is the "trick" to support the car, leaving the rearend on the ground, or is it worth the money to "have" it done
are the control arms the rods or I-beam type device that goes from the rear end and attaches to the car body or the frame. and is this some kind of triangule piece that attaches at 2 places on the rear end and at one place on the body or frame, hence upper and lower control arm, or are we talking about 2 totally different units...........hey, I think I'll just search it on the net since I'm already here.......lol
LCAs attach from the axle to the chassis. The 3rd link attaches from the pumpkin to the chassis. LCAs are an easy garage mod. UCA can be done but is tougher. And if you elect to replace the UCA mount, you'll need to drop the gas tank.
Well, you need to lower it a bit - but not drop it all the way... I losened both straps and then removed one - that gave me enough play to wiggle the mount out...
The hard part for me was the torques to get everything loose - someon ewent nuts with the thread lock on my car...
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'06 GT Vert - Saleen S/C
'05 GT Coupe - Under Construction - currently etching an "11" on the dial
'85 GT T-Top 351W N/A
Well, you need to lower it a bit - but not drop it all the way... I losened both straps and then removed one - that gave me enough play to wiggle the mount out...
The hard part for me was the torques to get everything loose - someon ewent nuts with the thread lock on my car...
Good to know... I just replaced the UCA without doing the mount. I didn't really see a significant difference between the stocker and the BMR piece (other than another set of holes).
Okay got it, I see they are 2 seperate items. now I see where J & M's have a hard sperical inner bushing and soft outer cups. Are these a good product or do the majority use the same and what is that brand.
Also can this be done with a hyd. floor jack, and is the "trick" to support the car, leaving the rearend on the ground, or is it worth the money to "have" it done
I don't know about J&M. MOst use CHE and quite a few use BMR and Steeda... how wrong can you go with a piece of steel...??
You can do the LCA's in a hurry. I have the CHE units from PowerHouse411 and had to hammer quite abit to get them in, got the mounting brackets too...
The UCA can also be changed quite easily but I do not know how to messure then pinion angle and where to set it...
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KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations
I've been snooping around a bit, and it seems the 'o5+ cars are a bit easier as the Lca's don't have the springs sitting in them. are LCA's jsut a unbolt and bolt type operation, or am I not seeing the big picture?
I've been snooping around a bit, and it seems the 'o5+ cars are a bit easier as the Lca's don't have the springs sitting in them. are LCA's jsut a unbolt and bolt type operation, or am I not seeing the big picture?
You are correct, they are not integrated with the springs like previous generation Mustangs. Very simple mod.
1. Jack the car and support by the chassis on stands.
2. Pull the wheels.
3. Remove emergency brake line at caliper.
4. Remove old LCAs (do one side at a time or axle might roll)
5. Install new LCAs (tighten to 85ft lbs)
6. Secure emergency brake cable to new LCAs with integrated clips (CHE) or tie straps (BMR & others).
7. Reconnect emergency brake cables
I have read many posts where people are having trouble with wheel hop. I have never had any trouble, but I still have the stock P's. Does this have to do with changing tires and different types of tires.
I've never had it... regardless of tire type/size, gear ratio, tranny, torque converter, or rwhp/rwtq. And I've had a lot of different combinations. Can't explain why, but I'm not complaining.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
I've never had it... regardless of tire type/size, gear ratio, tranny, torque converter, or rwhp/rwtq. And I've had a lot of different combinations. Can't explain why, but I'm not complaining.
Don,
One thing that I am noticing, when I am even just cleaning my tires the car immediately starts moving to the left, so much so that I have to have someone hold the rear end if I don't anything more than just clean the tires
Don,
One thing that I am noticing, when I am even just cleaning my tires the car immediately starts moving to the left, so much so that I have to have someone hold the rear end if I don't anything more than just clean the tires
I had that problem when one of my BMR bushings split. Rear end wanted to come around on every launch.
You are correct, they are not integrated with the springs like previous generation Mustangs. Very simple mod.
1. Jack the car and support by the chassis on stands.
2. Pull the wheels.
3. Remove emergency brake line at caliper.
4. Remove old LCAs (do one side at a time or axle might roll)
5. Install new LCAs (tighten to 85ft lbs)
6. Secure emergency brake cable to new LCAs with integrated clips (CHE) or tie straps (BMR & others).
7. Reconnect emergency brake cables
I would like to correct you on 2 points
1)The car must be supported by the rear axle so that the LCA's are installed and torqued under load.
2)The torque spec for the LCA's is actually 129lb-ft
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05 White GT Premium 5 Sp. IUP, Active Alarm
BMR, C&L, Centerforce, Fidanza, FRPP, GI Joe, JBA, JDM Engineering, LPW, Saleen, SCT, Steeda, SOS
[I'm still wondering why every other S197 hop and the rest don't... interesting... had been thinking of this before when I read about wheel hop here and I know I never had it...]
__________________
KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations
[I'm still wondering why every other S197 hop and the rest don't... interesting... had been thinking of this before when I read about wheel hop here and I know I never had it...]
The job of the bolts is to hold the metal sleeve in place.
It is the job of the metal sleeve to hold the control arm in place.
Torque specifications go by the dimension, thread pitch, and grade of the fastener.
It is not a random number open to interpretation.
There are some slight variations between different charts but for the most part they are standards to be used throughout industry.
The bolts in question are M14 2.0mm thread pitch grade 10.9 from the chart you can see that the dry torque spec is 133lb-ft.
If you look on page 2 you will see that the same bolt with loctite will require 140lb-ft of torque.
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05 White GT Premium 5 Sp. IUP, Active Alarm
BMR, C&L, Centerforce, Fidanza, FRPP, GI Joe, JBA, JDM Engineering, LPW, Saleen, SCT, Steeda, SOS
The job of the bolts is to hold the metal sleeve in place.
It is the job of the metal sleeve to hold the control arm in place.
Torque specifications go by the dimension, thread pitch, and grade of the fastener.
It is not a random number open to interpretation.
There are some slight variations between different charts but for the most part they are standards to be used throughout industry.
The bolts in question are M14 2.0mm thread pitch grade 10.9 from the chart you can see that the dry torque spec is 133lb-ft.
If you look on page 2 you will see that the same bolt with loctite will require 140lb-ft of torque.
Dang... now there is more than I needed to know... now if we forward this to CHE and ask whatta hey...??
__________________
KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations
