I am hopping another one of our gurus will chime in on this but as far as I know saying that synthetic vs. conventional oil would hurt something sounds stupid. Synthetic oil is just ultra pure conventional oil. If the viscosities are the same then why would it matter synthetic or conventional oil. Have MoterCrap in my Stang right now just B/C the dealer did a free oil change but as soon as its time I am putting Mobil 1 fully synthetic in there. I drive my Stang dally in all seasons so I will be going with the factory recommend 5w20 correct me I if am wrong but I think it is 5w20 Mobil 1 fully synthetic.
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07 Stang MT- SCT, JLT CAI, 4.10s, Zex Nitrous, Zex Remote Bottle opener, and other fun Nitrous stuff. TPMS Pipe Bomb mod
"Common sense is the collection of prejudices acquired by age eighteen."- Albert Einstein
Synthetic is not ultra pure motor oil and Motorcraft oil is produced by Conoco to Ford specifications so Motorcraft oil would be the same no mater who made it. Also if you feel that Motorcraft items are crap then I would suggest that you change all of the fluids - antifreeze, axle, trans, p steering, R 134, brake fluid because these are ALL Motorcraft items!
it's been proven for years that motorcraft is if not the best one of the best oils for ford engines. it is synthetic blend oil made specicicaly for those engines
I don't know...?? I switched to Mobil1 at my first swap.
I was one of the ppl that had timing issues. I would not even have known if it was not so evident on the dyno. Someone said they have no issues with Miobil1 in but how do they know? Have you dynoed your car and looked at the curve through a microscope and then back track through the datalog 1/10 of a second a view to know your car did not lose the timing signal and then drop the timing to zero for 8/10 of a second in the run?
With a synth mix there was no problem and my HP/TQ curve continued to climb. Can't remember the exact numbers but without the lull at 320 some RWHP at 5,500 RPM the peak was 16 RWHP higher. 343 vs. 327.
I now use Mobil1 again in my built engine with no problems. But in high powered (310+ RWHP) NA cars using a lot of timing I would stay semi synth.
__________________
KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations
I don't know...?? I switched to Mobil1 at my first swap.
I was one of the ppl that had timing issues. I would not even have known if it was not so evident on the dyno. Someone said they have no issues with Miobil1 in but how do they know? Have you dynoed your car and looked at the curve through a microscope and then back track through the datalog 1/10 of a second a view to know your car did not lose the timing signal and then drop the timing to zero for 8/10 of a second in the run?
With a synth mix there was no problem and my HP/TQ curve continued to climb. Can't remember the exact numbers but without the lull at 320 some RWHP at 5,500 RPM the peak was 16 RWHP higher. 343 vs. 327.
I now use Mobil1 again in my built engine with no problems. But in high powered (310+ RWHP) NA cars using a lot of timing I would stay semi synth.
Your experience is precisely the reason Il stick with the 5-20 blend.
Ok, here's the low down on my research on oil, and oil changes. When you first buy the vehicle, brand new, it is highly recommended to run the car on conventional oil, til 4500 miles or more. Then, change to synthetic oil. Synthetic oil does not allow an engine to completely break in (these new engines don't have much engine break-in, but the piston rings need to seal properly along the cylinder walls and synthetic oil will prevent that from happening). Quality synthetics include: Mobile 1, Redline, Amsoil, and a few others. I used to have a list that included the best conventional oil brands, but have since lost it, but Motorcraft is not one of them.
The best oil filters, are Wix, and Napa Gold. The Napa Gold filter is manufactured buy the Wix company, in the same plant. If there are other high end filters that are available, I'm not aware of them.
Let's examine the Motorcraft situation a little bit. Ford recommends Motorcraft, and to the average person, it sounds like Ford is looking out for the customers best interest to recommend the brand of Motorcraft. However, what most people fail to understand is that Motorcraft, and Ford, have a contract that says that Ford will promote/sell Motorcraft products. Which means that Ford is making money buy recommending Motorcraft products, and Motorcraft is selling more oil, and other products, because Ford sells it for them. I have never seen a high end auto parts provider get contracts with a major car manufacturer. Why? Because the high-end parts/lubricants company sells their products at higher prices, and the car manufacturer would loose more money if they sign a contract with such a company to sell their products.
I will say this much about Ford recommendations. The oil weight is what we should stick with (5w-20). I was going to switch to 10w-30, because it can add a little bit more power, and is a little thicker. However, I have learned that there are some orfices, in the engine, that only 5w-20 can get down into, and 10w-30 would not be able to reach. Therefore, Ford's recommendation to stick with 5w-20 is the oil that we should stick with.
Also, if you know how to change your own oil, DON'T LET ANYONE ELSE DO IT, INCLUDING THE DEALERSHIP. Dealerships are busy as it is, and the man doing your oil change isn't making big bucks. Some of these guys have a million things going on, and their minds may not be on what is going on. When a oil change is done, it takes a little while for the old oil to completely drain out. When an oil change is done is just a few minutes, that's barely enough time to let the old oil drain out, much less put the new oil in!
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2005 Premium GT, Redfire, 5-speed, dark charcoal leather interior, IUP, 500 watt Shaker stereo, 17" Bullit wheels, rear spoiler
Engine upgrades: Alternative Auto Performance tune, C & L cold air induction kit
Exterior and Interior upgrades: Flameball Raspberry hair design shifter knob, custom 'GT' floor mats, Steeta satin finished door locks, temperature controls and voltage plug, Street Scene rear quarter louves, and Astra Hammond rear window louvers
just a question.... how can oil affect ignition timing?
It affects you cam timing.
You have variable single overhead cams.
Thay vary the duration (timing) intake and exhaust ports/valves are open. More RPM more advanced, hence open soner to let more gas in/out.
The sensor do however not messure RPM but the pressure/speed of the oil going through the sensor. The sensor is the black plastic thing on one of your valve covers.
The sensor works pretty much like a MAF sensor and sample some of the oil passing by through a cutout. If the oil is the wrong 'thickness' i.e. grade OR compound (synth vs. semi synth) the 'pressure' reading is not right. If the sensor gets confused it will tell the computer so which will withdraw ALL advanced timing. Mine jumped from 17 degrees advanced to zero, back to 17 when it had a reading again.
__________________
KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations
The best oil filters, are Wix, and Napa Gold. The Napa Gold filter is manufactured buy the Wix company, in the same plant. If there are other high end filters that are available, I'm not aware of them.
FRPP and K&N Gold filters are REAL good!!
__________________
KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations
i usually go with a nice canola oil...gives a beauty smell coming out of the tail pipe!
Try the 100% pure virgin olive oil. It purrssssssssss and smells great.
Really, I stick with the manufacturer's recommended oil...in this case I am using the 5w-20 Motorcraft Syn Blend from the dealer. For 19.95, oill and filter, plus do 5 changes and the 6th is free, let them do it. Comes out to under 17.00 per.
Besides, I just converted my tires to nitro-fill, they will check and adjust as needed for free.
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To few to mention, actually to lazy to
07 Mustang GT Vert, 5 sp - Redfire His Toy
08 Chevy Silverado 5.3L ExtCab-Deep Ruby Metallic
05 Mustang V6 Coupe, 5 sp - Redfire(Her Toy)
08 Hyundai Elantra - Dark Gray (Her Daily)
Me - Her Toy. Proud member of the MrV. PPR Club
I absolutely agree with letting the dealer do all oil changes anywhere from 3000 to 5000 miles as they recommended to me. First off at 18.95 the price is right. 2nd you will see the people at your dealership on a regular basis and they will get to know you. They know that if you keep coming back you are very likely to buy another car from them when the time comes. Plus you are obviously giving them your business. I had a nearly 10 year relationship with my VW dealer when I owned my 3 VW's, and believe me that paid off. There were a few times when I needed repairs and the car was out of the bumper to bumper warranty and they went to bat for me with the corporation. One time, for example, I needed a repair to the rack and pinion steering. The dealer thought it was not something that should have happened even though the car was out of warranty. They made their case to VW and VW wound up paying about 75% of the cost of the repair.
It really does help to get to know the service people and everyone else at the dealership where you purchased your car.
Ok, here's the low down on my research on oil, and oil changes. When you first buy the vehicle, brand new, it is highly recommended to run the car on conventional oil, til 4500 miles or more. Then, change to synthetic oil. Synthetic oil does not allow an engine to completely break in (these new engines don't have much engine break-in, but the piston rings need to seal properly along the cylinder walls and synthetic oil will prevent that from happening). Quality synthetics include: Mobile 1, Redline, Amsoil, and a few others. I used to have a list that included the best conventional oil brands, but have since lost it, but Motorcraft is not one of them.
The best oil filters, are Wix, and Napa Gold. The Napa Gold filter is manufactured buy the Wix company, in the same plant. If there are other high end filters that are available, I'm not aware of them.
Let's examine the Motorcraft situation a little bit. Ford recommends Motorcraft, and to the average person, it sounds like Ford is looking out for the customers best interest to recommend the brand of Motorcraft. However, what most people fail to understand is that Motorcraft, and Ford, have a contract that says that Ford will promote/sell Motorcraft products. Which means that Ford is making money buy recommending Motorcraft products, and Motorcraft is selling more oil, and other products, because Ford sells it for them. I have never seen a high end auto parts provider get contracts with a major car manufacturer. Why? Because the high-end parts/lubricants company sells their products at higher prices, and the car manufacturer would loose more money if they sign a contract with such a company to sell their products.
I will say this much about Ford recommendations. The oil weight is what we should stick with (5w-20). I was going to switch to 10w-30, because it can add a little bit more power, and is a little thicker. However, I have learned that there are some orfices, in the engine, that only 5w-20 can get down into, and 10w-30 would not be able to reach. Therefore, Ford's recommendation to stick with 5w-20 is the oil that we should stick with.
Also, if you know how to change your own oil, DON'T LET ANYONE ELSE DO IT, INCLUDING THE DEALERSHIP. Dealerships are busy as it is, and the man doing your oil change isn't making big bucks. Some of these guys have a million things going on, and their minds may not be on what is going on. When a oil change is done, it takes a little while for the old oil to completely drain out. When an oil change is done is just a few minutes, that's barely enough time to let the old oil drain out, much less put the new oil in!
A thicker oil of the same type is not going to increase horsepower, but decrease it. It takes more power to spin the oil pump w/ a thicker weight oil. Required viscosity is determined by (cam timing issues aside) among other things, bearing clearance, horsepower level and rpm. For example, in the Busch Series engines we build, we run a 0w-10 oil in restrictor plate engines (7400 rpm 460 hp) and a 5w-20 oil in open engine applications (9400 rpm 760 hp) due to the rpm range and power level. The plate oil does not have enough viscosity to support the bearings in an open application. On the other end of the spectrum, a nitro burning 8000 hp engine runs a 70w oil @ 100psi with .004" to .005" bearing clearance.
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07 GT premium in Grabber Orange. 5spd. manual w/IUP, plenum cover,3.55's, Roush scoop, 14" antenna, C&L CAI, Bamachips 93 Predator tune, Steeda U/D pulleys, Hurst shifter, FRPP GTA's, CDC chin spoiler, CHE LCA, BMR panhard bar, Eibach Pro Kit. FRPP 17" black bullitts and 255R45 Firestones, Spydershaft aluminum driveshaft, MSD coils, D-Specs, Prothane motor mounts, BMR LCA brace, Steeda panhard brace, BMR adj. UCA, Webelectric sequentials, Mikronited FRPP 4.10's.
- Her Toy. 
