I spoke with one of the foremost expert mechanics in the area that I have known for years. This gentleman is a expert on building racing engines, repairing them, etc. I spoke with him about having a supercharger installed, and he said that it's no problem, but I would need to have some other work done along with it. His statements were that if I am adding 150-200 additional horsepower, via a supercharger) that I should have the crank, and cams, along with some other things, upgraded. (By the way, this guy is a friend of the family, so he wasn't trying to sell me his business). He said that whenever large amounts of horsepower are added, it causes stress on the crank, cams, bearings (I think he said bearings), and some other parts, that they weren't designed to handle, unless the engine came from the factory with the proper crank, cams, etc. He said that is why when someone is building horsepower in an engine, they have to upgrade these parts, or the additional horsepower will damage these parts because factory parts usually are not designed to take such stress, from high amounts of horsepower that the factory engine didn't come with. That's why Nascar engines are using $1800 cams, and $5000 cranks. Does anyone know about this and can shed any additional light?
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2005 Premium GT, Redfire, 5-speed, dark charcoal leather interior, IUP, 500 watt Shaker stereo, 17" Bullit wheels, rear spoiler
Engine upgrades: Alternative Auto Performance tune, C & L cold air induction kit
Exterior and Interior upgrades: Flameball Raspberry hair design shifter knob, custom 'GT' floor mats, Steeta satin finished door locks, temperature controls and voltage plug, Street Scene rear quarter louves, and Astra Hammond rear window louvers
Certainly when you start looking at above 475 rwhp you need to start thinking about beefing up the bottom end. Forged internals (crank, rods) and better pistons for sure. The rods are a real weak point in this engine. Cams, maybe, but not a real requirement. Probably ought to look at a set of PnP heads too.
Most superchagers are set up not to add power requiering a forged shortblock... Many run around with a bit swooped up Saleens, Kenne Bells, Vortechs etc. on the stock motor with no problem. I would stay under 450 RWHP, probably around 430 actually... that's 500 some HP, how much do you need?
The most important is the tune! And for a proper tune you need proper fuel feed and cooling! Hence, get a system that is cooled and come with (or add yourself) fuel upgrades (BAP and/or pump and injectors at least.) Cooler spark plugs are too cheap insurance!!
Avoid detonation at ALL cost! (Cooled supercharger, plenty fuel available (you wanna use less than 75% available at WOT) and cooler spark.)
Now if you still wanna build a motor I can give you lotsa ideas... plan on $3,500-5,000 plus install, another 1,000-1,500...
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KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations
Take this in addition to what all have said above.
The crankshaft in our cars is cast instead of being forged which is much stronger.
I have never heard of a single crankshaft failure in our cars even though I have heard of numerous piston and connecting rod failures.
A forged crankshaft is in the neighbourhood of $650.00 new and can be found for much cheaper at times. There are always people around who have needed to sell their parts before installing them for whatever reason.
With this in mind it is pointless to build an engine without installing a forged crank.
As far as camshafts go JDM Engineering is in the 600rwhp+ category and they still believe in running stock camshafts.
Forged pistons and rods along with a forged crank are the main components.
As far as horsepower goes with good tuning there are many of us running 500rwhp with a few such as Mike Bowen of powerhouse411 running in the 600rwhp range on a stock motor.
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05 White GT Premium 5 Sp. IUP, Active Alarm
BMR, C&L, Centerforce, Fidanza, FRPP, GI Joe, JBA, JDM Engineering, LPW, Saleen, SCT, Steeda, SOS
Thump rr is correct JDM will not do my car above the 485-500 rwhp without internals being done. He will not put on a 3.2 pully without doing headers. 3.4 is as small as he would go without touching the exhaust.
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07 GT. Exterior mods n/a. Engine mods, see profile.
One of the more powerful cars around.
One of the slower cars around.
Makes me feel like a kid every time.
Take this in addition to what all have said above.
The crankshaft in our cars is cast instead of being forged which is much stronger.
I have never heard of a single crankshaft failure in our cars even though I have heard of numerous piston and connecting rod failures.
A forged crankshaft is in the neighbourhood of $650.00 new and can be found for much cheaper at times. There are always people around who have needed to sell their parts before installing them for whatever reason.
With this in mind it is pointless to build an engine without installing a forged crank.
As far as camshafts go JDM Engineering is in the 600rwhp+ category and they still believe in running stock camshafts.
Forged pistons and rods along with a forged crank are the main components.
As far as horsepower goes with good tuning there are many of us running 500rwhp with a few such as Mike Bowen of powerhouse411 running in the 600rwhp range on a stock motor.
I agree with Peter... crank, rods and pistons are the key parts. I see no reason to replace the cams. They aren't prone to failure at any power level as far as I've seen. In fact, the cams and throttle body are the only stock parts left in my motor. haha
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
And my shift points are set at about 6250rpm, with a 6800 rev limiter. So, it's not what I'd call a high revving engine. It would probably go higher, I just don't need it to.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?