I may bite the bullet and go forced induction, I'm thinking of doing the torque converter at the same time. Would appreciate an explanation of the benefits and the detriments (gas mileage, driveability)?
Also what stall/ TC would people recommend and rough cost parts and labor.
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2006 Redfire GT Vert Auto, every factory option, 490rwhp JDM Saleen SC, One piece driveshaft, Steeda ultralight springs - rear adjustable UCA and LCAs, CHE relo brackets, Granelli front cross-member, Intrax sway bars, Tokico dampers, Hawk brake pads, Shelby Redline wheels and Nitto tires, GT500 exhaust, FRPP 3.73's, Pioneer AVIC-D3 navigation head unit, and Saleen HID headlights. See profile for appearance mods
It is like letting off of the clutch at the rpm the converter is set at. I have a 2600 stall on my car and I love it the car just goes with little effort. It was like jumping into a v8 after driving a v6 for comparison. But u need to call the supplier before u jump on a particular stall they need to know your setup cam profile rear gears exc. U still have power from idle to the stall like slow traffic driving but the power does not hit until the converter gets up to speed. I would suggest a purple stallion I got 4 tenths on motor easily and like 7 on the spray. But no matter the brand put on a good trans cooler in series with the stock one to keep the temps down.
I'll give this a go....but maybe someone with more experience will chime in.
A key factor in deciding on torque converters is what are your eventual goals? If your goal is ET at the track, then you'll go for high stall, 3500+ rpms...however there may be a trade-off for street driveability. But since the inside of the car is going to be ripped out in a couple of weeks, my tuner and the transmission builder agreed on 4000 rpm based upon my goals and my willingless to make the trade in street driveability (car is still daily driver). I'll get the max launch at the track with my slicks but my street DRs will be useless. Also I have a built rearend that can withstand the extra stresses of the high torque and hard-biting launches.
As far as mpg with a supercharger. I went on a 850 miles road trip a few weeks ago and even with some spirited driving, I got 24.9 mpg.
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06GT, being rebuilt for dragracing only 2008 race season, 10.0 at 136 mph, 1/4
I agree. I have a 2800 stall speed in mine and the stall speed you get will depend on your combination. The cam specs such as overlap, duration, then the tire size, head cc size, flow potential of the heads, what intake, and quite a few other things. All this is necessary to find out what stall would be best. But with an increase in stall speed comes additional heat. Put the best cooler you can afford on it to keep the temp down.
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MOOG Certified Tech. For mods and sound clips, see profile and gallery.
Ask me why I ran "only" a 13.54.
Member: NMRA Member: White Mustang Registry #362 Member: Fuzzy Dicer
And I forgot...
The additional stall speed will allow the engine to get into the rev range quicker, like riding a clutch. The type of converter, the lock up or non lock up will determine if you lose anything on gas mileage. The lock up will lock the converter out in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear so you're going on straight engine torque. The non lock up will multiply the engine torque in all gears and this will require a tear down of the tranny to install a 1 piece input shaft. The 1 piece shafts are more durable and less likely to break. The non lockup can decrease your gas mileage but will also make the car faster because of this multiplication in all gears.
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MOOG Certified Tech. For mods and sound clips, see profile and gallery.
Ask me why I ran "only" a 13.54.
Member: NMRA Member: White Mustang Registry #362 Member: Fuzzy Dicer
Put the best cooler you can afford on it to keep the temp down.
+1
My transmission is still being installed and I have been cautioned to NOT use the transbrake on the street. Apparently the heat rises 50-60 degrees a second while the little red button is depressed.
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06GT, being rebuilt for dragracing only 2008 race season, 10.0 at 136 mph, 1/4
The best way to get a converter made for you is to know the horsepower curve of your engine combination, ie have dyno figures. Alot of different factors determine the stall speed of the converter such as fin angle, what type of stator, etc. You want to try to match the stall speed to your peak torque rpm. The trans brake will build up some heat, but a good cooler should get the temp back down rather quickly provided you're on the brake for short intervals.
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07 GT premium in Grabber Orange. 5spd. manual w/IUP, plenum cover,3.55's, Roush scoop, 14" antenna, C&L CAI, Bamachips 93 Predator tune, Steeda U/D pulleys, Hurst shifter, FRPP GTA's, CDC chin spoiler, CHE LCA, BMR panhard bar, Eibach Pro Kit. FRPP 17" black bullitts and 255R45 Firestones, Spydershaft aluminum driveshaft, MSD coils, D-Specs, Prothane motor mounts, BMR LCA brace, Steeda panhard brace, BMR adj. UCA, Webelectric sequentials, Mikronited FRPP 4.10's.
Is this a good upgrade for someone who doesn't plan on going FI for quite some time, possibly never? Also, do a lot of these factors change when you throw an auto into the mix?
Is this a good upgrade for someone who doesn't plan on going FI for quite some time, possibly never? Also, do a lot of these factors change when you throw an auto into the mix?
for the price of these converters and to get them installed...you ought to make sure you are or are not ever goin FI. If you dont race your car Id never do a converter unless you do a stage 3 cam mod.
Im FI so I needed to go with a 3500 stall which I went with TCI..it alone was 900 bucks and the install was 450 bucks (including the PA deep tranny pan and dip stick)so...make sure you know what ya wanta do...for a while anyways
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Saleen S/C 3.2 pulley tuned by JDM Engineering, GT500 pumps, CHE goodies on the rear, 4.10's, KOOKS/ high flow catted X pipe with PYPES Violators, Spydershaft, TCI 3500 stall, PA deep tranny pan. Meziere w/p,M&H 325/45/17 DRs.
future mods.... a 3.0 pulley
The less torque you have the more stall you need to launch the car. The more h.p. & torque you make, less stall is needed to to launch the car. The stall of the converter dependent upon horsepower.
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07 GT premium in Grabber Orange. 5spd. manual w/IUP, plenum cover,3.55's, Roush scoop, 14" antenna, C&L CAI, Bamachips 93 Predator tune, Steeda U/D pulleys, Hurst shifter, FRPP GTA's, CDC chin spoiler, CHE LCA, BMR panhard bar, Eibach Pro Kit. FRPP 17" black bullitts and 255R45 Firestones, Spydershaft aluminum driveshaft, MSD coils, D-Specs, Prothane motor mounts, BMR LCA brace, Steeda panhard brace, BMR adj. UCA, Webelectric sequentials, Mikronited FRPP 4.10's.
Curious what the stock TC stats are. From this thread sounds like it locks from 3rd on. Anyone know the stall? My guess is 1500 or so.
Also, some have said that don't bother unless you go forced induction. Any opinions on what stall to use with a procharger?
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2006 Redfire GT Vert Auto, every factory option, 490rwhp JDM Saleen SC, One piece driveshaft, Steeda ultralight springs - rear adjustable UCA and LCAs, CHE relo brackets, Granelli front cross-member, Intrax sway bars, Tokico dampers, Hawk brake pads, Shelby Redline wheels and Nitto tires, GT500 exhaust, FRPP 3.73's, Pioneer AVIC-D3 navigation head unit, and Saleen HID headlights. See profile for appearance mods
This is long winded, but I hope it explains it. Hopefully you have at least seen pics of a converter to have the general idea in your head.
A torque converter is essentialy the "clutch" in an automatic trans. It consists of 2 counter opposing hubs that spin. The stall speed is the rpm at which the hubs "lock", sending all power down the road. Up until that point, the hubs are "slipping", much like a clutch. The stall speed advertised with any converter is a "guess". It takes a specific amount of power to get the converter to lockup or "stall". It is because of this that so many factors are required.
At rpm below the stall speed, not all power is going to the ground. Until that speed the car is moving, but obviously not very efficiently. I personally think high stall converters are unwise for a daily driver, but the guys that have them already will swear by them because there is so much peformance to be had by them. It allows the car to leave a LOT harder, especially considering these mod motors don't make any power untill high rpm. For an auto it is a very worthwhile mod. If you plan to go fi I would advise you to wait becaue of the completely different power curve with a blower. If you drive the car daily I would advise against it though.
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I pass C5's and C6's thanks to Wild Pony Motorsports and RossMustang.com
Thanks to KW Suspension - 1:56.841 at Cal Speedway
Can someone explain high stall torque converters? 
