Some feedback. I have the BRM set and I used them with my stock LCAs (go ahead, tell me that was dumb- I know but funding was not available for LCAs). As such, I can only use the lowest hole of the two possible since the ends on the stock LCAs are soo large.
If using any LCAs with bushings, as opposed to spherical bearings, you need to torque the LCAs with the car at ride height (weight on the axle). If you are doing this on jack stands, it is tough to gain the clearance necessary to apply the 250 lbs (or so) of torque. A lift would make the job easier.
As far as adjustibility, more is only better if you will spend the time testing and adjusting it, two or three holes is probably plenty for most of us. Again, if you are using LCAs with bushings, it makes it that much harder to adjust at the track if you decide to monkey with it. Rod end LCAs can be torqued down without weight on the axle.
I liked the BMR ones since they do not require welding until you see 60 foot times lower that 1.6 seconds, which I won't see until I move to DRs or slicks.
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2006 Legend Lime Mustang GT/Manual Trans/some mods(tired of updating) 13.257 @ 109.36 on stock 18 fanblades and stock BGFs wth CAI, tune, UDPs
1967 Lime Gold Galaxie 500 XL/390 4bbl/Toploader
1966 Mustang Coupe/bare metal (rebuild in process-slowly)/engine&trans TBD
Some feedback. I have the BRM set and I used them with my stock LCAs (go ahead, tell me that was dumb- I know but funding was not available for LCAs). As such, I can only use the lowest hole of the two possible since the ends on the stock LCAs are soo large.
If using any LCAs with bushings, as opposed to spherical bearings, you need to torque the LCAs with the car at ride height (weight on the axle). If you are doing this on jack stands, it is tough to gain the clearance necessary to apply the 250 lbs (or so) of torque. A lift would make the job easier.
As far as adjustibility, more is only better if you will spend the time testing and adjusting it, two or three holes is probably plenty for most of us. Again, if you are using LCAs with bushings, it makes it that much harder to adjust at the track if you decide to monkey with it. Rod end LCAs can be torqued down without weight on the axle.
I liked the BMR ones since they do not require welding until you see 60 foot times lower that 1.6 seconds, which I won't see until I move to DRs or slicks.
I appreciate the feedback... good points. Fortunately for me, I do have the tubular LCA with one spherical rod end, and I have no problem taking the track time to test. I tend to go often and make lots of passes (now there is an understatement ).
And no matter which ones I get, they will get welded... my best 60-foot so far is 1.52. And I hope to see high 1.40s here pretty soon.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
Some feedback. I have the BRM set and I used them with my stock LCAs (go ahead, tell me that was dumb- I know but funding was not available for LCAs). As such, I can only use the lowest hole of the two possible since the ends on the stock LCAs are soo large.
If using any LCAs with bushings, as opposed to spherical bearings, you need to torque the LCAs with the car at ride height (weight on the axle). If you are doing this on jack stands, it is tough to gain the clearance necessary to apply the 250 lbs (or so) of torque. A lift would make the job easier.
As far as adjustibility, more is only better if you will spend the time testing and adjusting it, two or three holes is probably plenty for most of us. Again, if you are using LCAs with bushings, it makes it that much harder to adjust at the track if you decide to monkey with it. Rod end LCAs can be torqued down without weight on the axle.
I liked the BMR ones since they do not require welding until you see 60 foot times lower that 1.6 seconds, which I won't see until I move to DRs or slicks.
I installed my CHE anti-squat brackets this afternoon. It went pretty good 2 hours total including jacking it up. I had to use a clamp to slightly squeeze the axle bracket together so that the brackets would fit in over them then tap the brackets in place. I had to grind one bolt hole out just a touch to fit and relocate the park brake cable to above the arm. I also dropped the front of the arm to regrease so it took a little longer. But all in all a pretty easy install.
And the result??.......Nothing is going to make the 235/50-18's hook!!! I did a couple of launches and tried it out with my g-timer......managed a 2.10 60 footer. I have to get out to the track and see. I really need to get some stickies. My buddy at JB's Automotive is pricing me out a pair of M/T 295/45-17's. Then I'll get those 60 footers under 2 secs.
I've decided against the CHE's... I want more adjustability. In fact, I'll probably get the Steeda's. The three different adjustment points is a huge selling factor to me.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
I've decided against the CHE's... I want more adjustability. In fact, I'll probably get the Steeda's. The three different adjustment points is a huge selling factor to me.
Hi Don,
Good choice. If Steeda had offered their LCA relocation brackets a year and a half ago I would have bought them. The weld-in BMR LCA relocation brackets are good quality and mine aligned perfectly with minor file work. The only thing I really wish BMR had done was added one more adjustment hole slightly higher up, closer to the stock location and made the bracket a bit shorter for more ground clearance. I've somehow managed to hit someting on the road more than once and both times it happened there was some damage to the bracket ears.
Cheers!
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'05 Ford S197 Mineral Gray Mustang GT Too many mods to list, check my profile if interested
'95 BMW E36 Cosmos Schwartz M3 Mild restomod project with my teen-age sons
I've decided against the CHE's... I want more adjustability. In fact, I'll probably get the Steeda's. The three different adjustment points is a huge selling factor to me.
AAAAhh you're just a crazy hardcore fanatic. Me not so much. The CHE's suit my needs just fine. My old body aches from rolling around under my car installing them. I couldn't be bothered to crawl under the car and tweak all the time.
AAAAhh you're just a crazy hardcore fanatic. Me not so much. The CHE's suit my needs just fine. My old body aches from rolling around under my car installing them. I couldn't be bothered to crawl under the car and tweak all the time.
LOL... once I get them dialed in, they'll probably stay put. But it's definetely worth it to me to play with them to see if I can squeeze a few more hundreths out of the 60-foot time.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
LOL... once I get them dialed in, they'll probably stay put. But it's definetely worth it to me to play with them to see if I can squeeze a few more hundreths out of the 60-foot time.
HUNDRETHS!!! You truely are a fanatic! I'm still slow enough and so inconsistent that I can shave off tenths.
HUNDRETHS!!! You truely are a fanatic! I'm still slow enough and so inconsistent that I can shave off tenths.
Keep in mind... a few hundredths in the 60-foot ought to be a tenth or more at the end.
BTW... I decided to go with the Steeda brackets because of the extra adjustment hole compared to the BMR. Having three positions will allow me to fine tune it and see what works best.
I expect to start on the top hole and make some runs at the track. We'll take some video from directly behind the car, so we can compare how it reacts to what it's doing now. If it still squats on the top hole, then I'll move it down to the middle hole. Over time, I'll test all three locations, and whichever one results in the flattest, quickest launch will be where it stays.
Hell... there is even a possibility that I may need to set it up differently for each of the two local tracks I run at. They have vastly different track conditions.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
And I can tell that I'll be painting them black, too.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
I'd like to, but I probably won't have time before they get welded on the car.
__________________
2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
BTW, I just found out something interesting. I went out and measured the height of the LCA at both ends. The rear of mine is 1/4" - 1/2" higher than the front... it actually points down (towards the front). No wonder this thing squats so bad. Now I really can't wait to see how changing the angle effects the launch.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
). 
