Don... I think you can get them in black... mine came that way... and I dont think the speed shop painted them.....
I'm pretty sure they shipped today, so it's probably too late to do anything about it. I guess I'll see what they look like when they get here next week.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
yeah the front should be higher.... you should (from what I've read) get better traction once you get them on !!
I'm really not having traction issues (except when track prep is bad). My problem is the excessive squat, which is just wasting energy that should be getting to the tires.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
oh well.. they will work the same either way.. .good luck!
Yep... With these and the new 3500 stall PI torque converter I ordered, I'm hoping to see 60-foot times down in the 1.4 range.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
haha... not likely. He's got more cubes (stroker), a bigger blower, more boost and a transbrake. I'd just like to see mine be a consistent 6.9x-sec car on a good pass... and then when the weather is good, maybe 6.8s (or even a 6.7... a guy can dream, right?).
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
How much $$ was that new TC ? what would you recommend me for my DD non SC car, a 3K or 3.5K stall TC ?
The 3500 stall PI multi disc is not cheap. The TC alone will run you $900 - $1000, plus installation.
Probably a better option for you would be the TCI Streetfighter 3000... a lot of guys are pretty happy with them. And it is much less expensive than the PI. I've seen them for under $500 (such as here:TCI Streetfighter 3000 for $449). I decided against the TCI for myself because I know of a couple that failed under the high hp/tq from a blower. But for N/A or low boost cars, it should be an excellent choice.
And FWIW, for most of the past year, I've been running a 3000 stall TC. I have almost 14,000 miles and over 500 runs on it. It is totally streetable, with no drivability issues. It's just not cutting it at the track for me. That's why I'm upgrading to the 3500 PI.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
I'm really not having traction issues (except when track prep is bad). My problem is the excessive squat, which is just wasting energy that should be getting to the tires.
I am no drag race suspension expert, but I am a Motorcycle Roadrace suspension expert and obviously there is a lot involved in getting 200hp bikes with a 5” contact patch off of a corner without spinning badly, running wide, etc. My off the cuff thought is that you do want some squat out of the bank end of your car under launch.
By all means, your current setup with the front of the control arm lower than the rear can’t be ideal. The lower control arm on a car is very similar to the swingarm on a bike as far as acceleration goes. We have one more input and that is the anti-squat characteristics of the chain pulling on the swingarm under load, but essentially they do the same job. When I am setting a new chassis, one that is new or highly modified (I’m talking bikes here) and there is no data I attempt to get a 11.5-12.5 deg swingarm angle (nose up) out of it as long as that doesn’t screw anything else up. I have found starting in this range will get me to a solution much faster than just shooting in the dark.
The Current nose low setup you have on there would work horrible on a swingarm. As soon as you got on the gas the rear end of the bike would squat too much, the swingarm will go flat and the tire will have a horrible attack angle on the ground. The outcome would be a violently spinning tire and the rear end coming around on you all over the place. And that sounds like exactly what you have going on with you car. It’s squatting too much and loosing the tires attack angle on the ground. What you are actually trying to improve is the angle of the LCA under launch (loaded) conditions. I am guessing that you are looking for the LCA to be parallel to the ground under launch conditions or maybe just a bit of angle left in it. Of course you can always achieve a suspension solution through different means, and every change comes with some sort of cost, you goal is to find the best solution with the least trade off. For example, if you tried to fix the LCA angle while under load by going with stiffer springs and a more aggressive compression dampening circuit (which wouldn’t work because the arms are already pointed the wrong way, but it’s any easy example) you would have a whole new set of problems. Of course you could spring/valve it to where the rear end would not squat at all, and therefore keep your “launch condition” LCA angle where you want it. But you cost would be that the suspension would shock the tire so hard that it would bounce off of the track surface and loose traction.
Where am I going with this you ask? Well, my example above is of a situation, a very extreme situation, that supports the fact that all “solutions: are not necessarily solutions. I think the LCA brackets are a great idea and they should help out tremendously. But be careful what you are tuning for. “No squat” is not one of them. You still need the car to transfer weight, you still need a compliant enough suspension to not shock the tires and you don’t want to run the arms at too high of an angle and create other problems either.
Like I said above, I am no car suspension expert. But I would guess you are looking for a good LCA angle while under launch conditions, not a specific angle while it’s sitting there static. If it were as easy as setting it static someone would have a number for you, let’s say 11 deg, you would set it up like that and just go run it. But, it’s not that easy, some cars have more power, weight, traction, etc than other and that will affect the angle of the arm while under launch conditions.
I would suggest putting safety yellow tape on the LCA’s for testing and taking video from the side of the car down low (bugs eye view). You will then be able to see what the LCA angle is when under launch conditions and tune its position accordingly.
Just a thought, hope it helps.
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Under Construction. Better, Stronger, Faster than it was before.
I'm really not having traction issues (except when track prep is bad). My problem is the excessive squat, which is just wasting energy that should be getting to the tires.
well that's good... however from what I've read... and spoke to the shop owner who did all my mods.... the relocation brackets will help your set up on both issues. Your traction will improve...and you know better than I do... you can never have to much traction @ the strip.. (well maybe you could).
Thanks for all the info sqidd. I will definitely be testing different LCA mounting points and how the car reacts to each. And yes, the video camera will be a good tool. But rather than trying to see what the LCA is doing (since realistically, I won't be able to video that), we'll try to get video directly behind the car and see what it's doing on the launch. I suspect that when all is said and done, I'll probably be looking at somewhere between 100%-120% anti-squat (for an auto trans).
Quote:
Originally Posted by stkjock
well that's good... however from what I've read... and spoke to the shop owner who did all my mods.... the relocation brackets will help your set up on both issues. Your traction will improve...and you know better than I do... you can never have to much traction @ the strip.. (well maybe you could).
I've seen what "too much" traction can do... it spits rear end parts and axles out all over the track.
__________________
2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
I thought I'd chime in here real quick...a few months back I purchased the BMR LCA's and the CHE Squat brackets. Well, I wouldn't recomend mixing and matching like that. Turns out the CHE brakets are just a bit narrower than the BMR's....I couldn't get the LCA's to go in between. The brackets are pretty stout, and I didn't really want to force anything, so I just returned the Che's and bought BMR's. All the BMR pieces went together fine, and I now have zero wheel hop!! I will say I was impressed with the CHE Relocation brackets. They each have a tab that engages into the mounting point that looks like it would really prevent any movement of the bracket. I haven't seen this feature on any of the other relocation brackets out there. I'm sure as long as you didn't try to mix and match componenets like I did, everything would go together fine. Also, CHE has really good directions, and you can go on to theyre website and find all kinds of installation help for all theyre products.
