I think the tape idea is a better way to go, you can always take it off.
__________________
05 - Zeon body kit, Saleen S/C, 3.6" pully, 90mm MAF, L/T Heders, Catted X-Pipe, Saleen Race Craft suspension, Axel brace, Pan hard bar. More to come this spring from my friends at PMP and Larry H.
65 - Street force coil over front suspension, Wilwood disk breaks at all 4 wheels, More construction in progress! More to come this spring from Simons Auto & Restoration!
I did the tape mod before I came in to work this evening. It's no placebo. There is far less travel in the pedal before the throttle engages and I'm not getting that annoying clunkiness between shifts as the throttle disengages. Took me about 30 seconds to do. FAR easier than opening up the pedal sensor.
thanks stlwagon, i will do the tape thing on monday, can this be done without removing the pedel assembly? i guess the amount of pedel lag will determine the thickness of tape you need right? This is two sided tape, and we are only removing one side the other side the tape stays on and that is what the pedel rests against? Much better idea to solve this problem..........thanks to tube for brining this to our attention.................A++
__________________
2007 gt vista blue convert. 5 speed, 3:55 gears, UIP, 18" billets, charcole interior, gt package, JBA Axel backs, sequential turn signals, C&L CAI, with brenspeed 93 oct. tune
Future mods...... hurst short throw, long tube headers, cam, suspension and the list goes on
thanks stlwagon, i will do the tape thing on monday, can this be done without removing the pedel assembly? i guess the amount of pedel lag will determine the thickness of tape you need right? This is two sided tape, and we are only removing one side the other side the tape stays on and that is what the pedel rests against? Much better idea to solve this problem..........thanks to tube for brining this to our attention.................A++
I didn't remove the pedal and I'm not small (6'4" 225). You only peel the one side.
seems to me i need more that one piece of tape, ive put 2 pieces of tape and might need another. if this is the case for some of us is the layered tape ok?
__________________
2007 gt vista blue convert. 5 speed, 3:55 gears, UIP, 18" billets, charcole interior, gt package, JBA Axel backs, sequential turn signals, C&L CAI, with brenspeed 93 oct. tune
Future mods...... hurst short throw, long tube headers, cam, suspension and the list goes on
seems to me i need more that one piece of tape, ive put 2 pieces of tape and might need another. if this is the case for some of us is the layered tape ok?
I would not recommend 2 pieces of tape. If you need more "thickness" take some aluminum foil and remove the sticky side protection and then add a shim of aluminum foil or a thin shim of aluminum, like a cutting from a coke can.
Have you checked your tach movement with your hand touching the gas pedal to see if the tach moves with the slightest pressure? If not, please check that before adding more thickness.
Mine has always had this aggravating dead spot, but with just 1 piece of the 1" wide 3M tape, it is gone!
Also, to add to what Stanley said, all this does is make your throttle blades start to open when you barely touch the gas pedal instead of them not opening for the first few moments of pedal travel when you push on the gas. That is all it does.
It is basically the same as taking the slack out of a throttle cable.
I did this on mine and it totally improved the responsiveness of the gas petal. The slightest amount of pressure on the gas pedal will make the tach blip now whereas it would not do that before.
Also, when driving I note these two things:
1. When I let off the throttle, I feel the car snap back, just as if it had a trottle cable.
2. I have an automatic transmission so when cruising between 40 and 50mph, I can stab the gas pedal just a bit and the torque converter will immediately unlock and the revs jump!
Hope this helps.
Mike
Last edited by MikeVistaBlue06; 09-03-2007 at 11:40 AM.
Reason: more info.
I tried the tape method, with a small change. I layered six layers of that aluminum foil tape (the stuff that has the foil tape, the adhesive layer, and the backing) and trimmed it to size. Before I pulled the final backing off, I tested it by putting it in, checking the position of the pedal, and pulling it out. It looks like it changes the position of the bottom of the pedal by about 1/4", maybe a little more.
It definitely does make a difference... I can be going down the road, and just tap the gas pedal (as opposed to pushing it!) and I can feel the car jump.
__________________
2005 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Cold Air Intake/Diablosport Predator Tune
Tokico D-Spec Shocks & Struts
Steeda Sport Springs/Front and Rear Swaybar/Front Swaybar Brace/LCAs/Adjustable Panhard Bar and Brace
Steeda-branded Borla Stingers
Steeda Underdrive Pullies
1965 "GT" Logo and some other chrome bits
What a great thread.
I was about to start my own thread about being stopped facing up hill at a traffic signal with my manual transmission and a cop waiting in line close behind me. Then I did a search and found this thread, cut off about 0.33” of 1” 3M double stick tape, slipped it into the throttle pedal stop, and problem was solved. I was concerned that the tape may be a little too thick and the car wouldn’t idle at 700 (where I set it with my SCT) anymore, but the idle speed is unaffected. And if the tape crushes down with time, and I start to have the problem return, it will take 30 seconds to slip another piece of double stick tape in there to fix it.
__________________
'06 GT, manual, Satin Silver, lt. grey cloth int., IUP.
MODIFICATIONS - Goodyear F1 GS-D3s; 245/45 on 18x9, 275/40 on 18x10| Progress Technology springs & sway bars| Steeda adj. panhard bar, panhard brace, front control arm brace & bushings| strut tower brace| Tokico D-Spec dampers| CHE adj. LCAs & BMR relocation brackets |drilled & slotted front rotors| C&L intake| BamaChips SCT tune| FRPP 4.10 ring & pinion| Pypes off road H-pipes| FRPP GTA mufflers.