S197 Mustang GT ... Anyone had problems with aftermarket overaxle pipes when lowered?
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S197 Mustang GT ... Anyone had problems with aftermarket overaxle pipes when lowered?
I have recently ordered new aftermarket overaxle pipes to correct my issues with the exhaust system. I went to the muffler shop today and while they are going to do what they can to get it to fit, they noted that the flat spot on the stock pipes didn't exist on the aftermarket ones and that it could possibly be a problem due to my car being lowered. My question is, with all the systems out there that offer the pipes, has anyone ever had a problem with them and their car was lowered? If so, how did they fix it? Also, was the increased flow from the missing flat spot noticable in the power & sound department?
I have recently ordered new aftermarket overaxle pipes to correct my issues with the exhaust system. I went to the muffler shop today and while they are going to do what they can to get it to fit, they noted that the flat spot on the stock pipes didn't exist on the aftermarket ones and that it could possibly be a problem due to my car being lowered. My question is, with all the systems out there that offer the pipes, has anyone ever had a problem with them and their car was lowered? If so, how did they fix it? Also, was the increased flow from the missing flat spot noticable in the power & sound department?
How much are you lowered? What over axle pipes do you have? I'm sorry I don't have any answers from you but I'm putting in new exhaust and am looking to avoid any issues.
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2005 Mustang GT with 04 Cobra iron block, 300 ci, Kenne Bell 2.6l twin screw, P&P S3 Heads, SS valves, Comp S3 cams, Currie 9+ 9" rear end and DS (coming soon), Hurst shifter, BMR K-member, A-arms, LCAs & UCA, JBA long tubes & mid-pipe, Accel COPs, GT500 fuel pumps, much more... 659 RWHP, 598 Tq @ 12 psi & 5800 RPM
I'm about 1" up front and 1.5" in the back or whatever the Eibach Pro-Kit is supposed to do. I ordered the MotoBlue overaxle pipes from RPMoutlet, but I'm guessing that they came from Pypes (something to do with the giant PYPES logo on the side of the box). I decided that getting those would be more cost-effective than trying to get new factory pipes.
FYI: I got new pipes because I had some resonators welded in and now I have deemed them unnecessary. Instead of having the muffler shop try and guess how long the pipes were supposed to be, I just picked these up instead.
I have used Flowmaster and Borla. Neither replaced the factory mid pipes that had the flats. Never had hitting issues either. Though, I was never lowered.
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2006 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Intake, Evolution Performance Tune, Borla Axle Backs, Hurst Shifter, 4.10's, JBA Long Tubes, Prothane Engine Mounts, Steeda UDPs, FRPP Charge Motion Delete Plates
Why are you swapping the overaxle pipes? I went back to the OEM pipes.
I'm a lemming and do what others tell me to do. So please tell me to just stay with the OEM pipes.
Actually I heard they flow better but I now, after seeing them, believe that is just hooey. I got excited one night and started ordering stuff. New headers, new mid pipes, new mufflers, why not new cat backs, I thought. There I go thinking again.
I have them now so I'll try the aftermarket pipes but if it saves me problems then I'll go right back to OEM.
On a side nite, I received my JBA LT headers today and they are beautiful.
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2005 Mustang GT with 04 Cobra iron block, 300 ci, Kenne Bell 2.6l twin screw, P&P S3 Heads, SS valves, Comp S3 cams, Currie 9+ 9" rear end and DS (coming soon), Hurst shifter, BMR K-member, A-arms, LCAs & UCA, JBA long tubes & mid-pipe, Accel COPs, GT500 fuel pumps, much more... 659 RWHP, 598 Tq @ 12 psi & 5800 RPM
I don't think they were worth the extra hassle. Got tired of the damn thinks clanking off the panhard brace all the time. Sometimes Ford does know best
That was the most difficult decision I had to make for this entire rebuild. I don't think sound clips on a tiny computer speaker gives you any idea of what they really sound like but I heard a clip of the MMR cat backs and liked that as much as any other I've heard so I'm giving them a try.
At this point it's the only hint of buyer's remorse I've had on this project but I'll keep an open mind until they are on.
And since I've never done a total bumper to bumper rebuild like I'm doing now (hell, I've never changed my own spark plugs before this car) I'm bound to make a few mistakes in selection of parts. If that's the worst mistake I make, I'll be thrilled.
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2005 Mustang GT with 04 Cobra iron block, 300 ci, Kenne Bell 2.6l twin screw, P&P S3 Heads, SS valves, Comp S3 cams, Currie 9+ 9" rear end and DS (coming soon), Hurst shifter, BMR K-member, A-arms, LCAs & UCA, JBA long tubes & mid-pipe, Accel COPs, GT500 fuel pumps, much more... 659 RWHP, 598 Tq @ 12 psi & 5800 RPM
I think they are going to have to bang out a flat spot or something. I don't see any other way around it. Oh well. At least I will be done with this after tomorrow.
And for a mere $1200+, you too can have this massive headache.
Or, you can just purchase the set of headers and midpipe you want from the get-go and not have this problem. Lesson learned: don't be cheap.
I think they are going to have to bang out a flat spot or something. I don't see any other way around it. Oh well. At least I will be done with this after tomorrow.
And for a mere $1200+, you too can have this massive headache.
Or, you can just purchase the set of headers and midpipe you want from the get-go and not have this problem. Lesson learned: don't be cheap.
You've definitely had more than your share of trouble with this. Don't feel bad though... I've wasted thousands of dollars!