[stlwagon]

Originally Posted by Chris D

I am going to install Steeda LCA's next week. I already have my GT on jack stands and the wheels removed (also installing new Steeda adjustable springs and D-Spec's). One question, the rear brake cable is routed through the stock LCA's on both sides. Any tricks removing the cables?

Pull the e-brake cable off at the caliper. It just pops right off.

[travelers]

Originally Posted by 1550GT

The suspension was loaded but not level. This is the first time I have heard that the suspension needs to be level as well as loaded. I can't get under there when the car is on the ground, thats why I torqued the bolts while the suspension was loaded by the jackstands.

The main reason it should be close to level is so it has enought weight on the suspension. I did the same thing and its good.

Originally Posted by bigwilly43729

I'm starting to suspect that my clunking is coming from a) the suspension not being loaded when I installed them and b) re-using the original bolts. The latter may not matter as much as the former, but as soon as I get some new bolts, I'll get this corrected ASAP.

Its possabable its whats making the clunking, I don't think its the bolts. I didn't changer mine either.

Originally Posted by Chris D

I am going to install Steeda LCA's next week. I already have my GT on jack stands and the wheels removed (also installing new Steeda adjustable springs and D-Spec's). One question, the rear brake cable is routed through the stock LCA's on both sides. Any tricks removing the cables?

As Stl said just make sure the brake is off, pull down on the cable and out of the socket and lift it out of the U clip the end fits into.

[mystang68/05]

Take this for what you will.

Service manual Rear suspension install lower control arms 204-02-3

10. CAUTION: Tighten the lower arm
bolts while the suspension is at curb height.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
2006


LCA-rear.pdf

[1550GT]

Originally Posted by mystang68/05

Take this for what you will.

Service manual Rear suspension install lower control arms 204-02-3

10. CAUTION: Tighten the lower arm
bolts while the suspension is at curb height.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
2006


Attachment 35228

Thanks for the information. Mine may be binding some because I did not torque them at curb height. I torqued them with the suspension loaded, but high enough to remove the wheels.

[Chris D]

Did those who replaced their LCA's use the existing bolts (hardware), or did you install new ones? What's the problem with re-installing the stock bolts? Is it a torque problem? Where did you get them and how much did they cost? The aftermarket LCA's should include new hardware if it is that critical.

[travelers]

Originally Posted by Chris D

Did those who replaced their LCA's use the existing bolts (hardware), or did you install new ones? What's the problem with re-installing the stock bolts? Is it a torque problem? Where did you get them and how much did they cost? The aftermarket LCA's should include new hardware if it is that critical.

According to ford the bolts are one time use. What they are, when torqued to what is call streatch. Thats why they are call one time use. Ford sell them but they aren't cheep. The torque is 129lbs. I don't know of any aftermarket that includes them.

[06hoss]

I still have the stock bolts on mine too. I think the official term is "torque to yield" or stretch as travelers said. You are torqueing them down until the metal in the bolts starts to "yield" to the torque. They want you to only use them once since they could possibly (but not highly likely) break after being stretched more than once.

[stlwagon]

Originally Posted by 06hoss

I still have the stock bolts on mine too. I think the official term is "torque to yield" or stretch as travelers said. You are torqueing them down until the metal in the bolts starts to "yield" to the torque. They want you to only use them once since they could possibly (but not highly likely) break after being stretched more than once.

+1... Theses bolts are one-time use.

[Chris D]

Stl...do you know the Ford part numbers so that I can purchase the bolts prior to the LCA installs?

[stlwagon]

Originally Posted by Chris D

Stl...do you know the Ford part numbers so that I can purchase the bolts prior to the LCA installs?

W704888-S439 Lower control arm rear bolt (2 required)

W704886-S439 Lower control arm front bolt (2 required)

W704991-S900 Lower control arm rear nut (2 required)

W710089-S440 Lower control arm front nut (2 required)

W708795-S439 Upper control arm front bolt

W709884-S440 Upper control arm rear bolt (2 required)

W520215-S440 Upper control arm rear nut

W710051-S439 Upper control arm flag bolt

[Chris D]

Thanks Stlwagon!!

[stlwagon]

Originally Posted by Chris D

Thanks Stlwagon!!

No problem... I just wish I could find an online source.

[mystang68/05]

Service manuals. Have fun with this!!!!



2005Stang.com :: View topic - Service Manual documents

[mystang68/05]

Originally Posted by stlwagon

W704888-S Lower control arm rear bolt (2 required)

W704886-S439 Lower control arm front bolt (2 required)
W704991-S900 Lower control arm rear nut (2 required)
W710089-S440 Lower control arm front nut (2 required)
W708795-S439 Upper control arm front bolt
W709884-S440 Upper control arm rear bolt (2 required)
W520215-S440 Upper control arm rear nut
W710051-S439 Upper control arm flag bolt

I think that it is more important to replace all of the fiber lock nuts. From experience these are definitely one time use! My front away bar link nuts came loose after a few miles. You can replace the nuts or use locktite.

[stlwagon]

Originally Posted by mystang68/05

I think that it is more important to replace all of the fiber lock nuts. From experience these are definitely one time use! My front away bar link nuts came loose after a few miles. You can replace the nuts or use locktite.

The vertical sway bar link is not torque to yield like the rear suspension bolts.