Thats all the info I got from my invoice. I'm hoping that I got all that was needed for the install, or I might just have to use some lock-tite on the factory nuts and bolts....
Did anyone else have anything similar when they were ordering replacement bolts/nuts?
Has anyone reused the bolts/nuts with lock-tite? What has been the result?
So how much did all of that run you?
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MODS: C&L Racer CAI,SCT Xcal II W/BamaChips Tune, Steeda UDP's, CMCV Deletes, Ultra Lite Springs, Pypes O/R H-Pipe, FRRP Stingers, 4.10 Gears, Shaftmaster 3.5" D/S, Rotorpros X Drilled/Slotted Rotors, BMR LCA's & Relo Brackets, Steeda Adj. Panhard & Panhard support, GMS Swaybar Delete & A-Arm Brace, Prothane Motor Mounts, 255/45/18 BF Goodrich KDW NT's, CDC Shaker Hood, Ducktail Spoiler, Classic Chin Spoiler, 1/4 Louvers and Lot's more Appearance Mods.
so my bolts finally came in, and I think I might be missing a Few things. I got everything I ordered, but I cross referenced all the part numbers I ordered to what STL said you would need, and I think I didnt order a front bolt for the UCA.
How big of a deal is that, could that one bolt be reused?
-I don't think we could find the part number for it, but I searched online and it is the same number STL gave previously...
The important thing is to either use a new nut or lock-tite to back up the used fiber lock on the old nut. If you are concerned about reusing the old bolt you can find a grade 8 bolt of the same size and use that.
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2005 GT Red
Tokico D-Spec
BMR Fabrication Tubular Adjustable Panhard Bar
BMR Fabrication Upper Panhard Bar Support
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs
so my bolts finally came in, and I think I might be missing a Few things. I got everything I ordered, but I cross referenced all the part numbers I ordered to what STL said you would need, and I think I didnt order a front bolt for the UCA.
How big of a deal is that, could that one bolt be reused?
-I don't think we could find the part number for it, but I searched online and it is the same number STL gave previously...
I replaced my bolts last night and something I noticed is that many of the P/N's listed in the PDF files are different than the ones for the parts Ford will send you. Even so, this shouldn't be an issue for the dealer. They seem to all use a common database for their parts, so getting them shoudn't be that big of an issue.
I didn't reuse any of the bolts, but I did re-use some of the flag nuts. I went pretty far out though and replaced EVERYTHING. I didn't know the exact source of the clunking, so every bolt was replaced except for the UCA bolt, which I felt ok with since I had it adjusted a while back. Swaybar, ph bar, shock bolts, front and rear LCA bolts as well. I follwed the advice posted in this thread about placing the jackstands under the axle to load it when doing the final torque. It didn't put it at ride height (which is impossible without a lift), but it seemed to work. I took the car out and had ZERO clunking. Rear end was as silent as the day I got the car. Regreased the bushings as well. Car actually feels a bit "tighter" now, like it's supposed to be.
I would rather be safe than sorry on the bolts, but I think following the proper torqing process will allow you to get away with re-using the bolts. I will post the part numbers directly off of the packages later this evening. Like I said, some are different than the ones listed on the diagrams.
I replaced my bolts last night and something I noticed is that many of the P/N's listed in the PDF files are different than the ones for the parts Ford will send you. Even so, this shouldn't be an issue for the dealer. They seem to all use a common database for their parts, so getting them shoudn't be that big of an issue.
I didn't reuse any of the bolts, but I did re-use some of the flag nuts. I went pretty far out though and replaced EVERYTHING. I didn't know the exact source of the clunking, so every bolt was replaced except for the UCA bolt, which I felt ok with since I had it adjusted a while back. Swaybar, ph bar, shock bolts, front and rear LCA bolts as well. I follwed the advice posted in this thread about placing the jackstands under the axle to load it when doing the final torque. It didn't put it at ride height (which is impossible without a lift), but it seemed to work. I took the car out and had ZERO clunking. Rear end was as silent as the day I got the car. Regreased the bushings as well. Car actually feels a bit "tighter" now, like it's supposed to be.
I would rather be safe than sorry on the bolts, but I think following the proper torqing process will allow you to get away with re-using the bolts. I will post the part numbers directly off of the packages later this evening. Like I said, some are different than the ones listed on the diagrams.
