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Old 01-07-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Default Great Information About Modding Your Cars

SUPER CHARGERS

Centrifugal Type Supercharging

Centrifugal Supercharging compresses the air inside the case of the supercharger using an impeller. Then, discharges the air out of a scroll to the motor. This design is similar to turbo-charging except for centrifugal superchargers don't use the exhaust to build pressure, they use a belt, driven by the crank pulley to spin the impeller. Centrifugal supercharging is definitely one of the more user-friendly ways to supercharge your motor. The ability to change the impeller sizes and to spin the impeller at different speeds creates a more inexpensive way to have flexibility in your power curve. Centrifugal superchargers have become the standard for street use and light-duty racing and far outsell all other types of superchargers.

Positive Points:
1) Lots of Flexibility for Power Adjustments
2) Lower Discharge Temperatures
3) Great Reliability
4) Easy to install
Negative Points:
1) Not as much power at low RPMs as Roots or Screw type superchargers


Roots Type Supercharging
The Roots Type Supercharger is the first style supercharger that was ever used and can be dated back to the 1880s when the Roots brothers designed it as an air conveyor for mine shafts. Roots blowers act like air pumps (not compressors), and In general, Roots blowers have a two or three lobe rotor design, depending on the size of the case. Roots blowers will give you positive pressure to your motor from just a crack of the throttle, and will give all that they have to offer at full throttle no matter what the rpm of the motor. Roots Type Superchargers may look awesome hanging out of the hood and are great for those looking for drastic power increases at lower RPMs. Roots blowers are also extremely reliable and require very little maintenance, which is why Ford, GM, Mercedes, Jaguar, and Austin Martin have all featured Roots blowers as original equipment on select high performance vehicles.


Positive Points:
1) Boost throughout the entire RPM range, right off of idle
2) Highest Potential for Gain
3) Excellent Reliability
Negative Points:
1) Lower boost ratings at higher RPMs
2) Higher Than Normal Discharge Temperatures


Screw Type Supercharging
Screw type superchargers are derived from the Roots type concept but with vast improvements for street use. Although from the out side, screw type superchargers may look a lot like Roots type superchargers, on the inside you will find a twin-screw design that compresses air unlike Roots type superchargers which pump the air into the motor. Screw type superchargers have an axial-flow design that compresses the air as it moves between the screws to create positive pressure without creating the heat that Roots type superchargers can create. The Screw type supercharger's ability to produce a dramatic increase of power from idle and through out the rest of the power curve make them a great choice for heavy vehicles, towing or commercial use.


Positive Points:
1) Great Power at Low RPMs (Great for Towing)
3) Factory Fit & Appearance
4) Great Reliability

Negative Points:
1) The Power Doesn't Keep Climbing in the High RPMs (Power curve is very flat)
2) Challenging To Achieve High Boost Levels



Cold Air Intake


All cold air intakes operate on the principle of increasing the amount of oxygen available for combustion with fuel. Because cooler air has more density for a given volume, cold air intakes generally work by introducing cooler air from outside the hot engine bay. However, the term "cold air intake" is often used to describe other methods of increasing oxygen to an engine, which may even increase the temperature of the air coming into an engine.
Some strategies used in designing cold-air intakes are:
  • increasing the diameter of the air intake, allowing increased airflow.
  • smoothing the interior of the intake to reduce air resistance.
  • providing a more direct route to the air intake.
  • tuning the length of the intake to provide maximum airflow at certain engine speeds (RPM).
  • using a more efficient, less restricting air filter


I will continue to do further Research and gather more information one what each mod does in general. So that every one that is modding there vehicle will not only know which mods are good but how they actually effect your car.
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Old 01-07-2008   #2 (permalink)
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Keep these coming. They are a great source of info and its broken down really well, thanks a lot!
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Old 01-07-2008   #3 (permalink)
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See, I told you guys Tact-out is the shiznit!!!
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Old 01-07-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Tact out

What compression for built short block and D1 9.8 or 9.1
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Old 01-07-2008   #5 (permalink)
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Well I just actually found out that the stock compression is 9.8.1 I thought it was 10.5.1 but I was proven wrong

For a centrifugal supercharger I would say the best compression is 9:1 for a twin screw or roots 8.5.1

Just because of how they build boost. You can get away with a higher compression with a Procharger but a roots or twin screw you can get away with it but its not the best idea if you ask me
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Old 01-07-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Looking for 650 to the ground
Ordered the block and fuel stuff today Still working on the assembly and heads. Any thoughts on livernois heads and assembly.
Any cam advice?
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Old 01-07-2008   #7 (permalink)
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stock cams are fine. I have heard nothing but good things about them they are very respected. Just ensure that they do not us prob pistons on your car. Manley or JE are the way to go.

650 with a procharger will not be hard to do at all and with a D1. I made 544.5 on a P1 with stock exhaust at 9.5 psi.

I am in the same goal you are though. I am upping to a D1 and looking to make as close to 700 as possible to the wheels.

I would not go more then 14psi though any thing more will require race gas to ensure your car is safe. You can probably slid by with more boost but you would have to take away from having an aggressive tune and make your car run rich.

My numbers are also on a dyno dynamics type of dyno so on a dyno jet they should be well higher. Great idea on building the heads as well. Get Charge Motion Delete Plates with that much power as well and look into a throttle body. I know they do not help that much but when you make that much power you do not want any type of restriction.

I have also heard of people porting there Delete Plates after porting there heads. That would also be a good idea. You will probably lose some boost from it but it will make some good power.

Make sure you upgrade your clutch and flywheels as well.

What size injectors do you have?
Talk to your tuner as well about a new MAF. I have seen that SCT finally has one for us. With that much power it will probably be a good idea.

Also I am installing an Electronic Cut out to run straight headers, I will also have a full exhaust system so I will post a thread with the dyno results with cut outs open and closed to see which way works best with a procharger.
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Old 01-07-2008   #8 (permalink)
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No Injectors yet At least 60 gt 500 pumps with KB BAP
Have a diablo extender for the maf
Zoom stage 3 clutch stock fly wheel?

There kit has MAHLE pistons Manley rods and froged 3.75 crank SAre these pistons o.k.
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Old 01-08-2008   #9 (permalink)
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Great information, keep them coming.
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Old 01-08-2008   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deuce View Post
No Injectors yet At least 60 gt 500 pumps with KB BAP
Have a diablo extender for the maf
Zoom stage 3 clutch stock fly wheel?

There kit has MAHLE pistons Manley rods and froged 3.75 crank SAre these pistons o.k.
I dont know to much abuot Mahle i would check other forums or this one to see what other peoples experience is with them. Just good them and im sure a 100 sites will come up rating them
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Old 01-08-2008   #11 (permalink)
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What about some research on turbochargers, so that those interested in forced induction (FI), can be fully informed of all options with FI technology.
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