Hey Scoop, 500 at the wheels with a Saleen is not hard to get on a stock motor.. I am above that on a stock motor. And yes I will be doing some forge work on the motor down the road. It is safe in my opinion, but there is always a first. Call JDM ask for Junior and tell him I sent you. And yes JDm does do Whipple.
Does Junior know you as "Mick"? Hehe.
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2005 Black GT Whipple HO | Oil Seperator | Steeda Tensioner | 93 dyno tune | Autometer Cobalt | GTAs
He might, not really sure. I am going back for another dyno tune and watts link set up in the spring.
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07 GT. Exterior mods n/a. Engine mods, see profile.
One of the more powerful cars around.
One of the slower cars around.
Makes me feel like a kid every time.
Do you need to get a custom dyno tune when they install your supercharger, or do they give you a JDM tune, or does all the above cost extra?
The dealer I bought the car from did the original install. MickMach told me about JDM but I did not use them till they became under the graces of the Saleen warranty. Before JDM touched the car it had 399 rwhp, that was with the s/c and there canned tune from Saleen with the 475 kit. Yes JDM has canned tunes that are safe. A dyno tune is extra $.Because I am sort of JDM"s test dummy. I have not paid for all my dyno sessions. Lucky me I guess.
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07 GT. Exterior mods n/a. Engine mods, see profile.
One of the more powerful cars around.
One of the slower cars around.
Makes me feel like a kid every time.
over 500 thats scary on a stock block when the rods are rated at 450 to the crank.
I would keep it safe until you can build you car up. You should be able to get 550 with a saleen with out over spooling it. Just becareful just because one guy pulls off the power doesnt mean your block will. Replacing the entire block is harder then rebuilding not to mention if a flying Rod takes out every functional part in your car
KB is probably the best because of the size but I think whipple and KB are really about the same when you get the same size blowers. Bot put out great numbers.
My procharger takes my buddys whipple all day long and were at the same boost. Off the line he is a tire a head of me but once we hit 3rd it pull 3 cars on him.
over 500 thats scary on a stock block when the rods are rated at 450 to the crank.
I would keep it safe until you can build you car up. You should be able to get 550 with a saleen with out over spooling it. Just becareful just because one guy pulls off the power doesnt mean your block will. Replacing the entire block is harder then rebuilding not to mention if a flying Rod takes out every functional part in your car
KB is probably the best because of the size but I think whipple and KB are really about the same when you get the same size blowers. Bot put out great numbers.
My procharger takes my buddys whipple all day long and were at the same boost. Off the line he is a tire a head of me but once we hit 3rd it pull 3 cars on him.
What do both of you run in the 1/4?
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2005 Black GT Whipple HO | Oil Seperator | Steeda Tensioner | 93 dyno tune | Autometer Cobalt | GTAs
I'd say, if you're in New Jersey, then wait till late June and roll out to Brenspeed with me!
Its a 5 hour drive from my parent's place in Ohio...
I decided on going with the Saleen S/C with the Brenspeed Stage 2 package, which will put about 430 hp / 420 torque to the ground.
The kit will be about $6,000 and the install is $650..
This SHOULD only take 1 day and they will dyno tune it...
Just a thought man.
btw, Im still in Pakistan and somewhat ripped at this point.
Sounds like a nice offer, but I definately wanna stay close to home on this one, especially if something should go wrong, I'd wanna take it back to where I installed it.
Probably the same price I'm gunna be paying at JDM for the stage 1.
Do you live with your rents in Ohio? Or are you a Jersey boy? Little confused on that one.
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2005 Black GT Whipple HO | Oil Seperator | Steeda Tensioner | 93 dyno tune | Autometer Cobalt | GTAs
LOL. Doesn't sound like you guys are quite stock with build motors, S/C's, and gears. Do you think some LCA might help with the launch?
well i ment stock tranny and suspension. Just power adders. Every thing was pretty much equal in the cars.
Yeah LCA and UCA would of helped ALOT as well as an anti roll bar. The slicks i ran were hitting my fenders as well they were to big. So i was just screwed period.
I guess I have one more question, since I will want to minimize the number of times I sent my car to the shop, is there anything in particular I should get when installing a Supercharger?
I'm wondering if I should get a set of LCA's, or anything for the suspension. I want to keep it stock height for now, so no springs.
Also, I think I'm going to get a short throw shifter(possibly MGW), and maybe some guages, but I'll be asking JDM if they recommend getting any at all.
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2005 Black GT Whipple HO | Oil Seperator | Steeda Tensioner | 93 dyno tune | Autometer Cobalt | GTAs
I guess I have one more question, since I will want to minimize the number of times I sent my car to the shop, is there anything in particular I should get when installing a Supercharger?
I'm wondering if I should get a set of LCA's, or anything for the suspension. I want to keep it stock height for now, so no springs.
Also, I think I'm going to get a short throw shifter(possibly MGW), and maybe some guages, but I'll be asking JDM if they recommend getting any at all.
I just mentioned this in another thread but is worth repeating. The most important gauge you can have is a wideband air/fuel gauge. This is MANDATORY if you have a supercharger. You NEED to know your AFR or you will blow up your engine if it is running lean and you don't know it.
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2005 Mustang GT with 04 Cobra iron block, 300 ci, Kenne Bell 2.6l twin screw, P&P S3 Heads, SS valves, Comp S3 cams, Currie 9+ 9" rear end and DS (coming soon), Hurst shifter, BMR K-member, A-arms, LCAs & UCA, JBA long tubes & mid-pipe, Accel COPs, GT500 fuel pumps, much more... 659 RWHP, 598 Tq @ 12 psi & 5800 RPM
I just mentioned this in another thread but is worth repeating. The most important gauge you can have is a wideband air/fuel gauge. This is MANDATORY if you have a supercharger. You NEED to know your AFR or you will blow up your engine if it is running lean and you don't know it.
Yeah I saw that. I think I will probably get that and maybe one other gauge and mount em between the AC vents. Or at the very least the AFR.
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2005 Black GT Whipple HO | Oil Seperator | Steeda Tensioner | 93 dyno tune | Autometer Cobalt | GTAs
I just mentioned this in another thread but is worth repeating. The most important gauge you can have is a wideband air/fuel gauge. This is MANDATORY if you have a supercharger. You NEED to know your AFR or you will blow up your engine if it is running lean and you don't know it.
+1 one on the AFR just make sure you get a wideband not a narrowband AFR.
An alum flywheel and clutch. The stock clutch wont hold up, a short throw shifter is really nice. If your car is built make sure that you know how much power you want to make because you have to get the right size injectors. I went through 42's and wasted those and had to get 60's
LCA and UCA yes because you will be like me. I had the worst wheel hop ever and I blew out all of the bolts in my rear end. Nothing was broken though. Just had to get a new Girdle because the bolts shot through it.
If you plan on putting slicks on a 1pc drive shaft
Hehe.
12.942 @ 113.88 MPH w/ a 2.139 60' time?
