I like CF blowers.... daily driver 560 RWHP no problem, almost like stock!
With a do-over I'd go turbo. I like the PH kit... myself I'd go larger head though, but as it comes is plenty for a stock block!
Saleen makes sense since you live there and JDM pretty much are king on those units. With that said though I would go KB or Whipple if they do those... room to grow... now that's for you, I'd go 1. Turbo (maybe two), 2. CF 3. TS (KB bigblock!)
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KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations
I guess I have one more question, since I will want to minimize the number of times I sent my car to the shop, is there anything in particular I should get when installing a Supercharger?
I'm wondering if I should get a set of LCA's, or anything for the suspension. I want to keep it stock height for now, so no springs.
Also, I think I'm going to get a short throw shifter(possibly MGW), and maybe some guages, but I'll be asking JDM if they recommend getting any at all.
In your situation I would go with the Saleen and have JDM do the install. They are known nationwide for there Saleen set up. You definitely should not ignore the suspension---a good UCA, some LCA's will help, but you need a good tire to.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5twenty
I just mentioned this in another thread but is worth repeating. The most important gauge you can have is a wideband air/fuel gauge. This is MANDATORY if you have a supercharger. You NEED to know your AFR or you will blow up your engine if it is running lean and you don't know it.
Yes, as many have already said---wideband is the most important. When I am past the 1/8th mile mark at the track, I am only starring at two things, and one of them is the wideband. That being said--that is the only reason why I decided on the Whipple--because the dual GT500 pump system is included with the kit. While not needed now, since you will be on the stock internals, and probably only at 8psi, not really an issue. But down the road, since your talking 550rwhp, fuel system WILL be an issue. In the end, any of the three--Saleen, KB, Whipple can easily get a street driver into the 10's with the right suspension and tire. Since the best Saleen experts in the country are only 1 hour from your house, the choice is clear.
If you were going to do the install yourself, then the decision would be harder.
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Paul
Daily driven 2005 GT AUTO - Whipple @ 16psi - 577 rwhp 519 rwtq
Best 1/8th mile: 6.740 @ 101.56 mph with a 1.431 60' time
Best 1/4 mile: 10.672 @ 128.42 mph with a 1.480 60' time Special thanks to:
ST Motorsports, San Bernardino CA - built engine and tune
Larry's Transmission, Corona CA - built 5R55S
M&H - 325/45/17 racemaster drag radials
GI Joe - 8 rib pulley kit
Thump_rrr - billet tensioner
Just got to reading some of your replies from this weekend. Thanks for everyones input. I added a few things to my list of mods that I need. I think I'm all set. Appreciate it, guys.
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2005 Black GT Whipple HO | Oil Seperator | Steeda Tensioner | 93 dyno tune | Autometer Cobalt | GTAs
I'm in the same boat between the saleen and the whipple h.o. system. Currently, I am going to college in San Antonio and my friends all have farty tuners and several WRX's.
So I really have two questions....
To have, at most, 500 bhp on stock internals, whipple h.o. or saleen?
Are there any places in San Antonio that anyone knows about that will dyno, and maybe install, my mustang?
I'm in the same boat between the saleen and the whipple h.o. system. Currently, I am going to college in San Antonio and my friends all have farty tuners and several WRX's.
So I really have two questions....
To have, at most, 500 bhp on stock internals, whipple h.o. or saleen?
Are there any places in San Antonio that anyone knows about that will dyno, and maybe install, my mustang?
I think either could get you there, but I dunno if I would take the stock internals that high. I think JDM even told me that would be pushing it on a stock motor. But I'm sure people are running stock at 500. Just a question of how long it will last since most parts in the engine are definately not rated for that much hp.
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2005 Black GT Whipple HO | Oil Seperator | Steeda Tensioner | 93 dyno tune | Autometer Cobalt | GTAs
As Psfracer stated do not forget the suspension and tires. This was a huge mistake with me.
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07 GT. Exterior mods n/a. Engine mods, see profile.
One of the more powerful cars around.
One of the slower cars around.
Makes me feel like a kid every time.
Somebody who has it is going to have to chime in. I really do not know. My suspension is stock, except for trailering arms, my clutch has been changed, my gears have been changed. Everything else except for under the hood is exactly the way it came from the factory. I even still have the stock radio and speakers.
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07 GT. Exterior mods n/a. Engine mods, see profile.
One of the more powerful cars around.
One of the slower cars around.
Makes me feel like a kid every time.
im going to go for the whipple h.o. with the 8psi pulley, dual pumps, and 60lbs injectors then to grip it have some american racing 18X10.5/18X8.5 with nitto drag radials. with all that priced out, i still have around 3000 to spend on suspension. what would give me the best bang for my buck so i can keep the power from the adder consistant with the ground, i haven't really looked at any other companies than roush, saleen, frpp, and steeda. are any of these better than others or arethere better ones out there?
im going to go for the whipple h.o. with the 8psi pulley, dual pumps, and 60lbs injectors then to grip it have some american racing 18X10.5/18X8.5 with nitto drag radials. with all that priced out, i still have around 3000 to spend on suspension. what would give me the best bang for my buck so i can keep the power from the adder consistant with the ground, i haven't really looked at any other companies than roush, saleen, frpp, and steeda. are any of these better than others or arethere better ones out there?
60lb injectors will probably be to much sense you wont be putting much down to the wheels sense you are on stock internals. I think the 39lb or 42lb will be fine. 60lb is what I am running with 544rwhp
I would probably wait to do it all at ones LCA UCA and LCA Bracket.
+1 on that. The LCA's reduced my wheel hoop a little, but the UCA and a Anti-squat brackets eliminated it.
I spent a few bucks here CHE Performance Products good value, good quality stuff and great customer service.
yeah wheel hop was no joke in my car. I had soooo much wheel hop just in Daily Driving that I ended up through all the bolt out of my rear end. Luckily nothing broke and I just had to weld my rear end back up and bolt every thing back in place because every thing would turn but my axls so I did not go any were lol
