Man, im about to order my stuff, but i dont know if i should include the UDP's.. they say- if they arent a good make, and are wrong in size that my lights can dim, radio will be lower, a/c will suck.. there was a list of negatives..
Those.. thats what i have read after doing some quick research on them..
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2006 Mustang GT A/T Performance//JLT intake + Tillman 93 Street Race//Flowmasters//FRPP 3.73s//Powerslot Slotted Rotors//Hawk HPS// Show//20in DD Black bullitts//Nitto NT555's//CDC Classic//Roush Scoop//Street Scene 1/4 Louvers//GT500 Rear Wing//FRPP Lowering Springs//Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates//8000k Heads/Fogs//Blacked out Sequentials Upcoming Mods//Longtube Headers//O/R X//FRPP Stingers//LCA's
I dont know if I should include the UDP's.. they say that my lights can dim, radio will be lower, a/c will suck.. there was a list of negatives...
You advised that Steeda makes good underdrive pulleys. Those are his concerns and negatives he's heard about underdrive pullies in general.
I'm not a fan of underdrive pullies unless they are offsetting the slightly higher operating rpms (except at idle) caused by changing rear gears to 3.73s (or higher).
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2008 Shelby GT500 torch red with black stripes + sequentials
2001 Cobra mineral grey with 2003 Mach 1 shaker hood
1996 Cobra color-shifting mystic paint + sequentials
buy a cobra motor already forged he he. 03-04 you well be happy with cold air pully and tune 510rwhp =0
A Complete Cobra block takes way to much work to install and then you will run into issues with other mods as well with the 4V heads.
I am running the Cobra Short Block but with 3V Heads which works beautifully, the block it self will not put out 510rwhp mine only put out 330rwhp with P&P heads
A Complete Cobra block takes way to much work to install and then you will run into issues with other mods as well with the 4V heads.
I am running the Cobra Short Block but with 3V Heads which works beautifully, the block it self will not put out 510rwhp mine only put out 330rwhp with P&P heads
i ment to say buy a cobra"."
the motor is already forged.
I say leave the UDP's on the shelf. They are good and all, but I didn't feel anything after I got mine. You shouldn't have any loss of performance with your accessories if you do get them. I've run two 1300W amps with no problems.
The 3.73's are good if you are planning to get the S/C down the road. Doesn't make sense to make another gear swap in a couple of years if you don't have to. Otherwise, I say go with the 4.10's and a torque converter. I don't have mine yet, but I have heard nothing but excellent results from getting one. Slap on some control arms and you are good to go. Grab some buddies and tools and you can save a few bucks on the labor for a lot of that stuff. If you can do the t/c yourself, you can stay under 2K, give or take.
That's good you have your priorities in order. Education is what matters in this world, not cars. In hindsight, I would have stayed home and went to college, but that's with 8 years of extra knowledge under my belt. Hindsight is always 20/20.
Well I am a college student living on my own, but i get paid a decent amount an work 60+ hours a week just so I can mod my car. I see that you are going in to pharmacy and i am in nursing, I got student loans to pay my rent because hospitals will pay them in full at sign on if asked, just a little heads up
yeah i was never impressed with the UDP mod just because the gain is so little for that much money. To me I would rather have control arms.
these mods should be on the list for every one who plans to make big power as well.
Upper Control Arm Mount, Tubular Radiator Support, Street LCA, Xtreme Anti-Roll Bar, Adjustable Upper Control Arm w/poly bushing, HD Boxed Subframe Connector, Control Arm Relocation Bracket
Look at CHE rear control arms. Suggest fixed lower, adjustable upper. Cheapest out there and I here they are good quality. May also want to do LCA relo rackets to increase angle, supposed to get the tires to hook better.
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2006 Redfire GT Vert Auto, every factory option, 490rwhp JDM Saleen SC, One piece driveshaft, Steeda ultralight springs - rear adjustable UCA and LCAs, CHE relo brackets, Granelli front cross-member, Intrax sway bars, Tokico dampers, Hawk brake pads, Shelby Redline wheels and Nitto tires, GT500 exhaust, FRPP 3.73's, Pioneer AVIC-D3 navigation head unit, and Saleen HID headlights. See profile for appearance mods
I will start up with the saving once i get through the next years of college
Impressive. I teach college full time (Human anatomy & physiology). Work medical forensics part time now. You have a wise head on those young shoulders.
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06GT, being rebuilt for dragracing only 2008 race season, 10.0 at 136 mph, 1/4
As for the UDP's, i guess it could be smart to get UCA/LCA and be done for a bit..
i just want to be able to hit low 13's... lol iight gotta go, back to class- then got work :/
FPeek07GT, yeah- i dont want to work 60+ hours aweek, itll be too much for me.. ill max it out at 40 hours a week.. and see how long i can keep that up for.
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2006 Mustang GT A/T Performance//JLT intake + Tillman 93 Street Race//Flowmasters//FRPP 3.73s//Powerslot Slotted Rotors//Hawk HPS// Show//20in DD Black bullitts//Nitto NT555's//CDC Classic//Roush Scoop//Street Scene 1/4 Louvers//GT500 Rear Wing//FRPP Lowering Springs//Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates//8000k Heads/Fogs//Blacked out Sequentials Upcoming Mods//Longtube Headers//O/R X//FRPP Stingers//LCA's
