I would really like to lower my car a little. It would make sense that if I am replacing springs, I should choose a set that would also be an upgrade from the stocks. I have looked at several brands and the average drop seems to be 1.5" to 2.0". I know this does not seem like much but here in New England... That much can guarantee scraping the front bumper. Roush sells 2 sets, 1 set offers an upgrade in performance and a 1" drop front and rear. And the other set is equal to the stocks but has a 1" front and 1.5" rear drop. I think this set would help even out the stance a little and look bad a$$ but there would not be much gain in performance. I know a ton of you have lowered you cars so I'm just looking for some feedback on any of my options!
i think it would help the stance, as well as make it a lil more nimble on the road..there is less bodyroll on lowered cars and you are able to drive the cars into curves a lil faster.. the 1inch front and 1.5 rear should look nice and be a nice setup, but id wait til someone with a lowered car replies.
If the car is a "daily driver" and you are in New England where there can be snow and drifts, I would suggest taking this into consideration, so you do not in mid-December become a snow plow.
Here in Tampa there are a few people with lowered "ricer" cars and you have to be careful because as they bounce along and come to a railroad crossing they brake to come to a quick stop, as they cannot or do not want to bounce over the tracks.
I have Ford Motorsport springs which lowered my car about 1.5 in. in the front adn 1in. in the rear. Its perfect to me cuz its not to low, but its noticeable and looks good and ya will notice some better handling.
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-04 Mustang GT-Intercooled Kenne bell 2.1L supercharged @10psi, C&L cold air intake, mass air flow, Sumitt racing 75mm throttle body, Magnaflow catback with Bassani X-pipe, chip and dyno tuned, 3:73 gears, B&M short shifter, FMS lowering springs and UPR caster camber plates, UPR upper/lower control arms, UPR subframe connectors. Kumho 275 up front/Kumho XS 315 in rear. Currently 420RWHP/435lbtq
-Daily Driver 04 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner, Blacked out, TRD suspension, K&N filter.
I have the Eibach Pro Kit on my car. It doest not scrape or anything on regular roads. For the really tough conditions some angling takes care of any problem.
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2005 Screaming Yellow V6 Mustang - 5 Speed Manual, In Dash DVD/Navigation, Eibach Pro Kit, 10" Black Stripes with 1/2" Pinstripes, 10" Sub Woofer with Sony Amplifier, 20" Foose DF-5 Rims with paint matched center pieces.
2009 Shelby GT500 - White w/ Red Stripes - Stock (For Now)
The Roush kit that lowers it just 1 inch are actually much stiffer spring rates therefore that's why they say increased performance. The other is just a rebadged eibach pro-kit (like the FRPP kit) which I think retains the stock spring rate to maintain a smooth ride. I have the 1" drop Roush springs on the rear and the stance is nice, I'm planning on dropping the front too sometime in the future (as of now I can't because I wouldn't be able to get in the driveway )
If you want to really go low, check out the Eibach Sportline kit and H&R Super Sport.
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2005 Mustang GT - ROUSH CAI, FRPP Stingers, Silverhorse Blackout Panel, Brushed "Aluminum" Dash Kit, chrome American Racing ROGUE wheels 20x8.5 with 255/35/20 Yokohama S.Drive tires, ROUSH rear springs
+1 with stlwagon. Unless they make a floor jack 1" high.
haha that's what ramps are for... like with my friend's lowered Z we had to drive it up on little skateboard ramps to fit the jack under haha - it worked, but kinda a pain
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2005 Mustang GT - ROUSH CAI, FRPP Stingers, Silverhorse Blackout Panel, Brushed "Aluminum" Dash Kit, chrome American Racing ROGUE wheels 20x8.5 with 255/35/20 Yokohama S.Drive tires, ROUSH rear springs
haha that's what ramps are for... like with my friend's lowered Z we had to drive it up on little skateboard ramps to fit the jack under haha - it worked, but kinda a pain
What do you start out with? 1/4'' plywood and work your way up from there.
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07 REDFIRE GT 5 SPEED 3.55 gears
C&L Racer CAI XCAL2/Seq signals/GTAs/Steeda UDP/CHE K Member Brace W/Torq Links/J&M LCA/Spider DS/PRO.50 Shifter Hurst handle & "T"/Meziere EO2/ARH LT catted H /Prothane MM/Delet Plates/SLP BOSS 429 Scoop/Accel COP/PowerSlot/Hawk Pads/Tokico D-Spec/CHE Panhard Bar Brace/Steeda Adj. Panhard Bar/BMR F/R Sway Bars/Cervini ducktail spoiler/BMR UCA Mount/CHE UCA/GT\CS Rear Cover/AMChrome Bullets 18x9/10s/Nitto 255/45&295/45
Tillman Dyno Tune 307HP/322TQ
I have the prokit and was very suprised on how good the ride remained after lowering..all in the progressive design..about 1.5" at all corners..stance is great..as far as floor jacks go, just drive the front tires on to a 2X4 and the jack goes right under! install was a piece of cake as well, easy afternoon project..
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2005 Black GT, C&L Racer with Brenspeed tunes (xcal2), Eibach prokit, 20" Boss wheels with nt555's, GT500 front splitter, Roush wing, MGW shifter, Magnaflow exhaust, 3D carbon elenor grill, smoked corners.
I have BMR's in my 06GT and love them. I went with the 2" in back and 1.5" up front. I don't scrape on anything but I pretty much killed any thought of getting LT's. It definately changes the stance of the car and evens it out. Though I don't look "slammed" at all, I would suggest you tread lightly and go with a lighter drop. You'll give yourself some flexibility for future mods and you'll look better than stock. I say an inch all around or like STL's maybe and inch and a quarter in back.
I love mine but it's not for everybody.
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66 Coupe Tahoe Turq - 200, Pertronix & Flamethrower, 3 Row Rad, Cliff. 6/2 96 GT Vert Laser Red - FMS pulleys, Bullet ProM, BBK CAI, Prof. Prod. Elbow and 70mm TB, MAC Off-Road H, Borla side exhaust, Tokicos, B&M Ripper, 18x10 & 18x9 DD Bulletts 06 GT Tungsten, UIP, Red Leather, Stick, 18" blades, Steeda CAI, SCT XCal 2 w/ MC Racing 91 tune, MACs, BMR SP010 springs, BMR Adj Panhard, CDC ducktail & quarter louvers, Rear louver, painted black stripes
I have the prokit and was very suprised on how good the ride remained after lowering..all in the progressive design..about 1.5" at all corners..stance is great..as far as floor jacks go, just drive the front tires on to a 2X4 and the jack goes right under! install was a piece of cake as well, easy afternoon project..
+1 Love my prokits. The stance is just what I was looking for and the handling is awesome.
An additional mod to consider, when lowering your car, are the camber plates. After lowering the car I noticed popping noises when going slow over bumps, or when I brake fast. The purchase of camber plates will solve this problem.
The fabrication of driving onto 2x4's. I very simple and effective idea. That is very cheap, but yet clever. I like the idea and I will use it for any further projects, because the floor jack I have was useless, but no more. Thanks blak05.
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Steeda CAI W/93 SCT Tune, Steeda CMDP, Steeda UDP, Steeda LCA, Steeda UCA, Steeda Sport Springs, Steeda Panhard Bar & Brace, Steeda Hood Strut Mounts, Steeda adjustable Camber Plates, Tokico D-Specs, G2 Painted Calipers,Sequentail Tail Lights, Magnaflow Free-Flo Cats W/Exhaust, Homelink Self Dimming Rear Veiw Mirror W/ Garage Door Opener, Compass & Temp, Eclipse AVN 5510 Head Unit W/ Nav, Chrome BBK Plenum Cover and various Dress-up Items.
How Low is to Low? 
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