besides a good mechanic, Is there any other tips you could give me?? I've heard of people sanding gears. I know there is a rough edge on them. Is this necesary?? Any pointers would be great. Thanks once again
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'08 GT premium 5 spd-- TVS2300 tuned by Tillmans CR
My girlfriend calls it a waste of money, but I see it as saving money(and time away from her) if I install it myself
ya I got a good race car mechanic doin them(F-the dealership!). I've just heard of some guys sanding them. So I thought I'd ask. So, take the car out for a nice sunday drive and let the gears cool right down. Then reapeat a few more times. Then change the oil???
She's gonna be hard to not get on the pedal...especially when I got a dynoshaft comin this week. DARN!!!
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'08 GT premium 5 spd-- TVS2300 tuned by Tillmans CR
My girlfriend calls it a waste of money, but I see it as saving money(and time away from her) if I install it myself
ya I got a good race car mechanic doin them(F-the dealership!). I've just heard of some guys sanding them. So I thought I'd ask. So, take the car out for a nice sunday drive and let the gears cool right down. Then reapeat a few more times. Then change the oil???
She's gonna be hard to not get on the pedal...especially when I got a dynoshaft comin this week. DARN!!!
when you install the gears you will need 2qts of oil. i suggest motocraft synthetic gear lube. Go to your local Ford dealer and purchase it. You will need to put a atleast 500Miles on them for the break-in period. If you do beat on them without breaking them in, you might end up getting the whinning noise or something worse. So if i were you id go on your local Highway and jsut cruise up and down.
im running the FRPP 410s and i really like the way they came out.
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All Motor-281ci tuned by JJ at Woodbine MotorSports.
I haven't changed my Gear Lube since i got the gears installed. When should it be changed and how often?
Gear oil can last quite awhile depending on driving conditions. I changed mine at about 15K, but it wasn't really necessary. With normal driving, I'd bet it'll last 50-75K miles, maybe even more. Probably a little less if you are racing it a lot though.
ya I was wondering that also. I can see the gears being broke in on every car before they sell them.
And did you know ford wants 33.00 canadian for 1 liter of 75w-140. No wonder they aren't going under like the other car companies. I hear royal purple gear oil is better and it doesn't need any friction modifier.
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'08 GT premium 5 spd-- TVS2300 tuned by Tillmans CR
My girlfriend calls it a waste of money, but I see it as saving money(and time away from her) if I install it myself
I think that the car is broken in before they sell it, and we just don't know it? They unplug the speedometer, drive it 500miles, and then plug it back in.. lol kidding.
No but seriously, i am curious about that now..
PS... your saying "Those who say they would rather push a Chevy than drive a Ford usually do" is the best thing i have heard!
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2006 Mustang GT A/T Performance//JLT intake + Tillman 93 Street Race//Flowmasters//FRPP 3.73s//Powerslot Slotted Rotors//Hawk HPS////Pypes LT Headers//O/R X//FRPP Stingers Show//20in DD Black bullitts//Nitto NT555's//CDC Classic//Roush Scoop//Street Scene 1/4 Louvers//GT500 Rear Wing//FRPP Lowering Springs//Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber plates//8000k Heads/Fogs//Blacked out Sequentials
I think that the car is broken in before they sell it, and we just don't know it? They unplug the speedometer, drive it 500miles, and then plug it back in.. lol kidding.
No but seriously, i am curious about that now..
PS... your saying "Those who say they would rather push a Chevy than drive a Ford usually do" is the best thing i have heard!
Well, I just had a chat with one of my buddies that works at his dad's car shop.
Basically he said that the "break in period" is just a way to make sure that everything is working the way its supposed to.
With gears, the machined part has to be nearly perfect down to thousandths of inches, and taking it easy on the throttle allows for these minuscule flaws to either "break in (shave down)" or whine, clunk, rattle, etc.
You could put in a new set of gears and floor it and spin the tires all the way through to 4th gear and never have a problem. It's just a reliability thing - if you just take it easy for a good amount of time, you should never have any problems.
Seems to make sense to me. I think the 500 miles is more of a guideline. If you're at 250 and everything is perfect, WOT shouldn't hurt anything. Just be prepared!
And I know dude! The same kid that told me about the gears has a '72 (maybe?) Camaro & its soooo f***in cool! I told him that and he laughed too!
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All show... So far. Exterior: Roush Front Fascia w/o chin spoiler, Black Billet Foglight Delete Grille, hidden smoked foglights, GTS Blackout Panel, smoked tail lights, WebElectric Sequential tail lights, MUSTANG 3rd brake light, 14" Shorty Antenna. Interior: Red piping, RVinyl Aluminum Dash Kit, CDC Aluminum Pedal Covers.
When I got my gears installed, I was unhappy to find out that the manufacturer recommended 500 miles of non-highway "normal" break in. Since I drive about 500 miles per year, I was NOT going to wait a year to drive like I wanted to, so I researched it a little.
Basically, what I found was that the break in period is necessary to strengthen the gears, basically heat treating the mesh surfaces, which can make a big difference on the life of the gears.. How you break in the gears is what is different from manufacturer to manufacturer. It seems that accepted practice is to do 3-5 heat cycles, driving 20-30 miles to get the gears good and hot, then let them cool completely.
If racing, noise and long term durability is not necessary, so they say not to bother with any break in on a race car. When I set out to define the potential damage, the only hard information I found was that improperly broken-in gears will not last more than 50-75k miles.. hardly a concern for those of us that don't use our cars for DD's. Some people stated that your gears can get noisier if you don't properly break them in, but I never found anything from manufacturers to suggest this. Furthermore, I have heard more often than not that noise is most common when the gears are improperly installed. Also there are some TSBs out there for rear end noise, mostly having to do with the 2 bearings on either side of the pumpkin.. When I changed my gears, I did 100 miles of heat and cool cycles over the course of a few days then treated them like they were indestructible.. I had noise from the beginning, but I never changed the bearings, and they are Motive brand gears, which are most often associated with noise. I did pull it apart after 500 miles and the wear pattern was perfect, all the tolerances are to spec. (I did have a mechanic install them).
I used Royal Purple. They now have 700 miles on them and I will be replacing them with 3.73s soon to prepare for the supercharger, and when I do I will go with FRPP gears and a full bearing kit instead of just the shims and bolts like I did the first time. It's not much more money for the parts, and I think it will cure the noise problem.
One thing I found every manufacturer agreed on was to not tow a trailer with new gears for at least 500 miles (some recommend 1000).
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2006 GT Premium Vert, 5 spd, Tungsten Grey Show: Painted gloss black stripes, Street Scene Gen 1 body kit, side and hood scoops, CDC light bar, sequential tails, purple underglow, 8" shorty antenna, redline hood struts, Steeda Ultralights, 20" Chrome Killers, S.O.S. pillar & 3 gauges. Go: J&M LCA's & Adj. UCA, J&M Adj. Panhard, CHE LCA reloc brackets & torque limiters, 3.73 gears, Kenne Bell Stage 1 2.6l supercharger.
...440rwhp/401rwtq
Any tips for a gear install 
