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Old 09-22-2009   #16 (permalink)
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oh most defiantly a tuner. I assume you are getting an O/R pipe w/o cats so you will need a custom tune with the rear O2 sensors disabled which a speed shop of your choosing can do for you. The tuner also allows you to read any check engine code that your car may throw, you take the code, which for example might be P0171 which means the engine is running lean (very bad). Take the code, go online and figue out what is wrong. Or be like Mark and keep a list with you (very smart idea)of the codes and what they mean.

I recommend the SCT Xcal 3 which i have had excellent experiences with. It also allows you to do other things like change you speedo to compensate for different sized tires, or different gears ect
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Old 09-22-2009   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help,not worry about the codes on run a Ford dealership but thanks on the tuner i just got done reading about it and yes i went with the off road x pipes and installed today and very loud with the exh i have so tomorrow we are installing the orginal exh tomorrow to see if it is better (great at idle and low rpm but 3k not so good, sounds like a truck and i don't want to spend money on exh cause going with the side exh this winter (project)
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Old 09-23-2009   #18 (permalink)
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personally, i think that UDP's are too much trouble. I have heard of people having issues with them and if your belt has an issue, you are going to need a tow truck which is a big No-No for a mod for me. They only "free-up" (because they reduce drag on your engine, not actually give you more power) about 5-7 HP. And remember you are turning your accessories less which means your alternator and A/C are getting less power.

As for your next mod you can go with either a CAI and tuner or the shifter. Personally i know you will get all 3 but its just preference as what to get next. The cai and tune is defiantly easier to install though since it took me 20 minutes going snail speed lol

IMO stay away from any aftermarket TB on the S197, there is too much electrical mumbo-jumbo with these cars and they never work correctly (99% of the time) and throws codes ect.

But since you said 2-300, i'd have to say shifter since the CAI and tune is $550ish


Thanks for the info. I will prob end up getting one (UDP) eventually anyway. I'm more of a windows down guy anyway. I did find a member on here who has an ASP UDP. I checked out their site and it comes with a shorter belt. It's $299 on their site. I sent him a PM asking on what he thinks of it, still waiting on a response.

I agree with you that they don't give "more" power. They only free up what is already there, but that is what a lot of bolt-ons do. They "free up" the power that the engine is already capable of putting out. Just like a light weight balanced drive shaft. It doesn't free up ANY power in the engine, it only minimizes power loss from the engine to the wheels.

If I could actually save money while here in Iraq (thanks, divorce) I'd just buy all three like you said I will do eventually. LOL
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Old 09-27-2009   #19 (permalink)
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sorry to hear about your money issues, but just think of it this way. You are just saving gas you just need to not romp on it which is impossible lol
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Old 09-27-2009   #20 (permalink)
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UDP's Do make a difference, I noticed a change in throttle response after the install. They also make an impact on gas mileage. Yes they are a PITA to install, but the only way you can screw it up is if use a 3 Jaw puller without anything on the screw to keep it from going in....and threading the crankshaft, or using the supplied longer bolt in place of the factory one... For these cars Steeda makes the best ones. Best rule of thumb is just don't by them used, and replace your serpentine belt after the install, since the stock one will be looser....

As far as A/C and Power Steering goes? They will not affect them, I noticed no changes in a/c temp/ power or power steering...
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Old 09-28-2009   #21 (permalink)
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wow, good to hear a good review about them. so with all the effort to install them, worth it?
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Old 09-28-2009   #22 (permalink)
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wow, good to hear a good review about them. so with all the effort to install them, worth it?
It makes a big difference, especially with a CAI and tune. I cant even go full throttle on some roads anymore. The biggest pain was the crankshaft pulley, I didn't have the proper tools to get it off. The harmonic balancer doesn't have holes in it so you have to use a 3 jaw puller, and it has to have something in front of the screw or you will screw the crank shaft up. Really once I got the harmonic balancer off, the swap took me about 30 minutes....
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Old 10-01-2009   #23 (permalink)
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It makes a big difference, especially with a CAI and tune. I cant even go full throttle on some roads anymore. The biggest pain was the crankshaft pulley, I didn't have the proper tools to get it off. The harmonic balancer doesn't have holes in it so you have to use a 3 jaw puller, and it has to have something in front of the screw or you will screw the crank shaft up. Really once I got the harmonic balancer off, the swap took me about 30 minutes....
didn't you have to pull off the coolant tank, radiator and a bunch of other things as well?

And since i lack the tools and would probably spend more then paying a guy who knows what to do to install them, this would likely be a shop install for me. Or make a new friend with a bigger garage and larger selection of tools
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Old 10-01-2009   #24 (permalink)
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didn't you have to pull off the coolant tank, radiator and a bunch of other things as well?

And since i lack the tools and would probably spend more then paying a guy who knows what to do to install them, this would likely be a shop install for me. Or make a new friend with a bigger garage and larger selection of tools
Everything came apart so easy it wasn't funny. Taking the fan out was the only remotely hard part. The bolts and plug were a little challenging to get too. I unbolted the power steering and coolant reservoirs, and just moved them to next to where the airbox was.
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Old 10-01-2009   #25 (permalink)
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Everything came apart so easy it wasn't funny. Taking the fan out was the only remotely hard part. The bolts and plug were a little challenging to get too. I unbolted the power steering and coolant reservoirs, and just moved them to next to where the airbox was.
I remember the first time i took my grill out. I wanted to shoot myself......

Now if i see a deal on some new UDP's i may buy them

Anyone else need some advice from a fellow stanger who is learning as well (me)
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Old 10-08-2009   #26 (permalink)
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Anyone else need some advice from a fellow stanger who is learning as well (me)
Hotshot when you installed the muffler deletes did your car throw a code cause it was running to lean due to the change in back pressure?

i know you don't have to re-tune for mufflers but did you re-tune after installing them?
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Old 10-08-2009   #27 (permalink)
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I didn't have to do anything for my muffler deletes in terms of tuning. All i did was unbolt the old mufflers and bolt up the muffler deletes. It saves a lot of weight too

Its sounds really nice on startup too
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Old 10-18-2009   #28 (permalink)
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Great thread, its a good starting point for a confused new owner like me.

Question to the OP. You said you have the FRPP axle back. I am looking for one as well to have more sound but I dont want cabin drone and from what you said the FRPP is great for that. I looked around online to possibly purchase one and and I found 2. An FRPP/Borla Stinger and just an FRPP. Which one of these 2 did/do you have?
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Old 10-18-2009   #29 (permalink)
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I had the FRPP GTA's axleback exhaust which i loved. The FRPP Stingers (same as the borla ones) are round mufflers and a little louder than the GTA's. The GTA's were so perfect sounding Ford should have made them stock. They have 4 inch tips and sound fantastic at all RPM levels with zero drone. The Borla or Stingers also sound fantastic but may be a little more pricey and from what you described to me, i would recommend the GTA exhaust. Its around $400 and change last i looked but defiantly worth it
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Old 10-18-2009   #30 (permalink)
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I had the FRPP GTA's axleback exhaust which i loved. The FRPP Stingers (same as the borla ones) are round mufflers and a little louder than the GTA's. The GTA's were so perfect sounding Ford should have made them stock. They have 4 inch tips and sound fantastic at all RPM levels with zero drone. The Borla or Stingers also sound fantastic but may be a little more pricey and from what you described to me, i would recommend the GTA exhaust. Its around $400 and change last i looked but defiantly worth it
Sorry for the n00b question. I am unable to find a GTA exhaust. I found a GTB (Ford Racing M-5230-GTB Ford Racing Muffler & Exhaust Kits) Is this the same/updated version or part number?
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