I just picked up the April issue, and they took a new 05 Mustang, did 6 modifications and got the car to run a 12.45 @107.92, In stock form they got it to run a 13.39 @101.87 (1.996 60-foot). They did stock chassie dyno pulls first, 267.83hp & 291.24 lb-ft. With just a computer adjustment they picked up 15 rear-wheel hp. then took it to the track and ran a 13.10 @ 105.56.
1. superchips tuning
2. MagnaFlow mufflers/ withjdm stainless tips
3. Steeda underdrive pulleys
4.QA1 rear shocks
5.ford racing performance parts 4.30 gears
6. mickey Thompson E/T street tires
They have down that at 6000rpm they picked up 41hp & 37ft-lb
approx total cost $2.430
I just picked up the April issue, and they took a new 05 Mustang, did 6 modifications and got the car to run a 12.45 @107.92, In stock form they got it to run a 13.39 @101.87 (1.996 60-foot). They did stock chassie dyno pulls first, 267.83hp & 291.24 lb-ft. With just a computer adjustment they picked up 15 rear-wheel hp. then took it to the track and ran a 13.10 @ 105.56.
1. superchips tuning
2. MagnaFlow mufflers/ withjdm stainless tips
3. Steeda underdrive pulleys
4.QA1 rear shocks
5.ford racing performance parts 4.30 gears
6. mickey Thompson E/T street tires
They have down that at 6000rpm they picked up 41hp & 37ft-lb
approx total cost $2.430
Ah-ha..we may finally have an answer to the whole "what's quicker an automatic or manual" debate which has been raging on these boards for some time.You say this car ran 13.39 in stock form, please tell us if this was an auto or a stick they used for testing. Also is the ET adjusted for sea level. I know Motor trend got a 13.6 in an automatic (or was it 13.5?? I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong!!)
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05 Mineral Gray GT Stick
IUP, ICAP, Bullit's With Locks , Alarm, Factory Body Side Mouldings, Shaker 500. Cosmetic mods 23% tint on side glass 32% tint on back. Two 10" black matte Shelby stripes with 1.5 " space.
My Other Ride is Your Mom
Previous Toy's:
86 Z28 with ZZ4/6 speed stick, 80 Trans-Am with anemic 301, 72 Nova SS, LT1 stick car, 67 Cougar anemic 289 auto
I got to be honest. Is $2,400 worth a second and a couple more MPH? I saw and purused the same article and I'd have to say it have to be a little more ($) especially if you have others install the upgrades. If you bought your Mustang to race, then yea, it may be worth it.
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2005 Mustang GT, manual, Windveil Blue, Premium Pkg., Shaker 500 System, Ford Alarm System. Sequential turn-signals, plenum cover. rear-lowering springs, hood lift kit, and other minor dress-up items. Prev. owned: '65 Coupe, '84 GT, & '86 LX w/ 5.0.
They didnt specifically stay stick or not but they were talking about full throttle shifts. And they didnt talk about altitude adjustments in the article. My friend has a 99 camaro that has about 1500-2000 he has a different converter, had 2 cat back exhausts, different gear, cold air intake kit and something else, and it wont run a 12.45. I had to rub it in on him because he wants to race my 05 GT. I am stock his in not, and he is saying I can spank you. I said well let me modify mine like you did then we will run them. He didnt like that idea to much.
I got to be honest. Is $2,400 worth a second and a couple more MPH? I saw and purused the same article and I'd have to say it have to be a little more ($) especially if you have others install the upgrades. If you bought your Mustang to race, then yea, it may be worth it.
I think it's a lil worth the second because most cars to compete are friends that have Evos and STis that paid 30 k to 35 k for their car at least you can say I paid 28 k and can beat your STi and Evo and if I put in another 7 k to make it even you guys will never havce a chance. to match prices.
Ah-ha..we may finally have an answer to the whole "what's quicker an automatic or manual" debate which has been raging on these boards for some time.You say this car ran 13.39 in stock form, please tell us if this was an auto or a stick they used for testing. Also is the ET adjusted for sea level. I know Motor trend got a 13.6 in an automatic (or was it 13.5?? I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong!!)
I still have to say there are a lot of factors of which is better. Person, Gears, Converters millions of combinations. I don't think we will ever truly know
If you have ever driven a car with 4.30 gears, you wouldn't be happy. Plenty of Cobra's run those gears, but the red line is much higher. In either case, freeway trips must be taken at lower speeds to keep the rpm reasonable.
I think they did it for the article, just for the headlines and hype. Now everyone is going to use that as the bench mark for their arguments about how fast their car could be.
I bet I could get my 05 GT into the 11's for under $2000. Nitrous, Gears, a tune, slicks. How long it would live might be a different story.
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-1998 Black Cobra, Kenne Bell 2.1L Supercharged
-2005 Mustang GT, Premium, 5spd, Redfire, Mac Catback
-2007 Roush Nitemare Stage 3 Supercharged #48 of 100
431 RW HP and 462 RW TRK. And you have all the torque at 3K RPM and up!!! Plus you got as much RW HP at 3K RPM as the stock engine has at peak. All for $5500 plus you get CAI, and an entire reprogrammed ECM. If you can get into the 12's with 300 RWHP, imagine what 431 will do, even with 3.55's!!!! By far the best hp/$ money ratio there is. And it looks, and sounds cool!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glen
If you have ever driven a car with 4.30 gears, you wouldn't be happy. Plenty of Cobra's run those gears, but the red line is much higher. In either case, freeway trips must be taken at lower speeds to keep the rpm reasonable.
I think they did it for the article, just for the headlines and hype. Now everyone is going to use that as the bench mark for their arguments about how fast their car could be.
I bet I could get my 05 GT into the 11's for under $2000. Nitrous, Gears, a tune, slicks. How long it would live might be a different story.
The Whipple numbers are impressive especially if their claims are true running only 8 psi. However I would worry that without some engine strengthening mods it may tear itself apart as well as break other driveline components in short order. Good info would be to better understand the capabilities and limitations of the stock components.
The Whipple numbers are impressive especially if their claims are true running only 8 psi. However I would worry that without some engine strengthening mods it may tear itself apart as well as break other driveline components in short order. Good info would be to better understand the capabilities and limitations of the stock components.
I am getting the Whipple but the worries above have made me ask lotsa questions from the 'know how team' at some shops and at our track here in the Nati...
Apperently this 5-speed, axles and diff will take it with no problems unless you take it to the strip driving it like Schumacher there and then run 10s(?) there daly...
The low 8 PSI helps to keep the engine cooler but you will need at least pistons and rings... And it would probably be a good idea to get a block not outa alu... the rest should hold up for the higher HP and TQ again as long as you don't drive it at red line all day...
Dunno, would hate to put in pistons and weld them to the alu block, or twist anything below the pistons, or wear out the lifters, or drop a valve, etc. etc. Then we have the clutch... Oh well... I'll wait and see how it all holds up for others too many 'fishy' parts to tell right now...
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KJ, poorer but happier
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That's kinda the issue when these vendors publish these performance gains. They are rarely clear on what other mods may or may not be influnencing thier Dyno data and what the "life expectancy" on the stock motor will likely be. They just wanna sell you an SC. They don't care if you sieze the motor or not. For just a street rod setup I'd be happy with a lower performance gain that won't overly stress the stock parts. I guess you could play with pulley size but your "included tune" would be useless. You'd have to find a Dyno and tune it yourself.
With the heat generated from even running 8 psi, steel heads, renforced pistons and maybe even rods are probably a given. It may also turn out a stronger fuel pump and heavier injectors are also required with that SC. If so, the 50% gain for only $5K is more like $8K (or more) plus I think it's safe to say you can kiss your factory warranty bye-bye.
I read on a thread somewhere that the Rousch wouldn't void the factory warranty if installed by a Ford Tech. I would think this implies that the stock parts can handle the SC upgrade.......but I haven't see that in writing anywhere.
I'm thinking some good info and experience might be found in the AFM 4.6L Tech threads.