I have heard that if I let my dealership do all my oil changes, that I'll have a 100,000 mile warranty? Is this true, and is it worth having the dealership doing all my oil changes? I have always changes my oil myself, and personally I don't want them doing it. I will be using all WIX filters, and for the first 5,000 miles, I'll be using Castrol GTX petrolium oil, or shell's 'Fire & Ice' petrolium oil. After 5,000 miles I'll be switching to Mobile 1 sythetic, or Red Line sythetic. Will the dealership use the oil and the Wix filters that I tell them use (I'll be bringing it to each oil change), or will they use what they want? Also, I am going to want to change my oil after the first 20 miles, then after the first 50 miles, then at 200 miles, then at 2000 miles, then at 5000 miles, and then every 4000 miles with sythetic oil. Will the dealership change my oil when I want it changed, or will they say "We'll change your oil when we think it needs changing? What are these mechanics like to deal with?
"I have heard that if I let my dealership do all my oil changes, that I'll have a 100,000 mile warranty? " Where did you hear that? I have the 100,000 mile warranty and it cost me 2 grand. Why don't you just call and ask your dealer your question(s). They would probably be the only ones that can address this for you.
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V6 Premium Vert, Performance White, Black Top, IUP & ICAP
I have never seen that before. I would say if you don't purchase an extended warrenty you will not have one. Especially if it is a dealer only thing what if the dealer changes their mind in 4 years or you move and can no longer go to that dealership. I would suggest purchasing the 100k warrenty if you want one. Also I would be concerned about changing your oil that often. When your car is breaking in it is probably not a good idea to change the oil that rapidly. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
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2005 GT Coupe Premium, Redfire, Dark Charcoal, IUP, Manual, Bullits, and active theft.
Ordered 2/21 - Serialized 4/21!
Build Week 5/16
Built 5/18
Shipped via rail car 5/21
Arrived at ramp 5/30
Arrived at dealer 5/31
Got the call 6/2
Picked up at dealer 6/4
Original Dealer Estimate 4/25
Updated Dealer Estimate last week in May first week in June
(Last GT dealer will receive)
The only thing that you need to get from a dealer, is everythng in WRITING. Once again, they will tell you anything....ask them to write it down, and ooohhhh, hold on, let me check this out, oooopppppssss, I made a mistake, if you get your oil changed here everytime, you won't actually get the 100,000 mile warranty, BUT.....THIS IS EVEN A BETTER DEAL, what you will get is SCREWED, I bet they will write that one down!
Suggestion: If you want a warranty, go through a 3rd party like your insurance agent. I got the same coverage the dealer offered - but instead of $1420 it was $805 for identical coverage. Only difference was the dealer coverage provided rental car coverage for long-term repairs. The dealer doesn't care who they get paid from.
Mine is bumper-to-bumper for 5 years/80,000.
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Loudog
If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything.
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'05 GT Black w/ Drk. Charcoal, 5-speed Manual, IUP, Side Air Bags, Shaker 500, Bassani Xhaust (SS Cat-Backs w/ X-pipe), SCT XCalibrator, JLT Cold Air Intake w/DTP tune
I am going to want to change my oil after the first 20 miles, then after the first 50 miles, then at 200 miles, then at 2000 miles, then at 5000 miles, and then every 4000 miles with sythetic...
So are you one of those people who wash their hands like 50 times a day? You may want to search around for the thread about getting the inside of your engine all squeaky clean by running dishwasher detergent through it.
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Satin Silver GT Prem. w/ IUP & Tremec
Windows tinted, C & L cold air, Alternative Auto 93 Octane tune, 4.10 R&P, BMR LCAs, billet grille, Steeda UDPs, aluminum driveshaft.
Changing your oil that often is a waste of good oil AND your time. Besides your rings may not seat right. Change it at 5000, go ahead and switch to Mobil 1 (or any synthetic you choose) for the rest of its life. Synthetics are good to 5000-7500 miles. Heck, regular oil is good to 5000. Ask your dealer if he stocks Mobil 1. If he doesn't pick up a six-pack (if you have a V8) and tell him thats what you want in it. It's no big deal to him. Its just a myth that you should change at 3000 with the high quality oil they produce today. Read your manual. And always use Ford parts and filters.
The biggest advantage to having the dealer change the oil at the regular 5000 services is they will keep an eye on your car. They may find something else that needs fixin' (under warranty). Plus if they screw something up you have Ford on your side. Dealers cannot afford to get a bad reputation so they better be careful and keep you satisfied. It may cost a little more, but you'll sleep better.
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Chris Weber
05 GT
85 1/2 SVO
95 Explorer
00 Audi TT
Ford Motor Company has a 3 year 36000 mile warranty. After that you can purchase an extended warranty from a number of sources. SAE grade SL oils do not need to be changed more often than 5000 miles unless you are driving a taxi, police car, postal truck, limo, etc. The 3000 mile interval is a myth. Modern cars have much tighter tolerances and engines that are 90% cleaner than 20 years ago.
First of all, if any dealer tells you to use a specific oil or filter, or when it has to be changed, they have to give it to you for free (Magnuson-Moss Act).
Secondly, many people have the impression that if a product has a manufacturers name on it (i.e. Motorcraft Filter/Oil, Goodwrench/AC Delco Oil and Filters)that it is something special. Well, it isnt. Ford has never made oil or filters, nor has GM. Motorcraft oil is made by Conoco/Phillips, to Fords specifications, which is fine, there is nothing wrong with thier products. However, aftermarket oils, like AMSOIL, Mobil 1 are a better choice. Synthetics have sooo many advantages over petroleum oils that it is a no-brainer that you should use them. Stay away from synthetic blends... big rip off! If you are going to use a synthetic, I recommend 1)AMSOIL 2)Mobil 1. Redline is good too, but way too expensive! I pick AMSOIL over Mobil because of AMSOIL's additive package... it is formulated for 1 year or 25000 mile oil changes with a warrantee! Mobil is good too, but they have been screwing the american public with thier Mobil 1 for 30 years, making you spend un-needed $$ on oil changes. Mobil 1 was marketed when it originally came out in 1974 as a 25000 mile oil (AMSOIL started it in 1972). Mobil decided it wasnt selling enough at 25000 mile intervals, so it changed its labels to manufacturers recommended intervals. Now, suddenly, Mobil is back with a 15000 mile oil??!!
You can go to synthetic immediately after getting your Mustang. Your rings will have plenty of break in time by the time you get your car. 25000 mile oil changes may seem crazy to you, I have done it for years, however, even if you cut that in half, 12000 miles or 6 months, you are still saving a ton of time and $$, and you are doing your Mustang a huge favor!
Ok, I think I need to clarify somethings here, in response to some of the responses I have seen, in reference to this thread. First, you can never hurt your engine by changing your oil too often. Someone wrote that it isn't good to change your oil that often. Bull-caca! If you understand anything about engines, you could change your oil 50 times in a week, and it wouldn't hurt, if fact the more times you change your oil, the better! Second, when you start running a brand new engine, any expert mechanic will tell you to never run sythetics until at least the first 5000 miles. Here's the reason; when an engine is new, certain parts, especially the piston ring seal, needs to seal against the cylinder walls with the tightest seal as possible. If you run sythetics, then the additives, and the properties of sythetic oils lubricrate these areas so well, that this seal is never really developed. A new engine needs 'break-in oil;' which is basically petrolium based oil. Many people have used sythetics when they first started running their new engine, only to start having problems later, because their engine never really got broke in-it's true. Third, one of the best things that you can do for a new engine is to change your oil after the first 20 miles. When you get a new engine, the way to get the proper piston ring seal against the cylinder walls, is to run the engine hard for the first twenty miles (I know the owners manual says to run it easy, but actually this is bad for the engine). With the new engines that are being made today, the window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller. There are various reasons for this, but I do not have time to go into it here. When you first start driving an engine, there will be a lot metal to metal contact, which means the break in process starts immediately, and hence, there is a lot metal in the oil. You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, oil pump, etc. The time to do that is after the first twenty miles. DO NOT USE SYTHETIC OIL WHEN DOING THIS! Probably the best resource that I can give you on this is to go to http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm. The things in that article are for all piston engines, and might seem crazy to you, since we have all been told for years that you are supposed to break in an engine easy, but it makes sense.:thumbsup
First, my .2 Euro cents... The new oils synthetic or non will stay good for a loooong time. My last car was a bi-turbo 300 HP inline-5... high RPM obviously. The manual stated to DRIVE IT AS YOU PLAN TO IN THE FUTURE, and added kinda; just dont towe or drive up autobahn at 160 MPH with a full load the first 1000 miles... RPM fine, heavy load bad... This same car had a mixed oil from factory and recomended a change to synthetic at 7500 miles and then synthetic in 7500 mile intervals... If a 2.5 liter 300 HP engine can go for 7500 miles so can a 4.6 liter 300 HP engine... But I'll follow the manual, and I will put in synthetic at the first service...
Now, question time... My dealer told me that an extended warranty is exempt from the 'mod clause'...?? He told me an example of a guy who took +600 outa his Cobra and actually dropped the rear end! Had to walk back a quarter mile to pick it up and throw it in the trunk! They fixed it under warranty!!!
I'm thinking 5 years, 75K; warranty, service, roadside, and loaner. I got a two year service plan already in the deal. How does that plan sound, how much would it be worth? I'll check with my bank too as I know they have one. Would they have a 'mod claus'?
PS. Sorry if my typing/spelling is even worse than usual, English was the third language I learned and IT IS ST. P.s DAY (and 1:30 am here...)! Go Green!!
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KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations
I'm assuming this is what you're referring to...........
I think we all got the 05 Mustang Brochure before buying/ordering....the one with the Red GT on the cover. Go to page 23, the Specifications section. Top of page; STANDARD FEATURES; Right under that is Mechanical; and the first item under that is 100,000-MILE TUNE-UP INTERVAL* and at the bottom of the page is........ *Under normal driving conditions with routine fluid and filter changes.
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~~LEGENDARY LIMER 0011~~
~~2005 Mustang # 69,820~~
Legend Lime V6 Premium +
EUP & IUP
Manuel 5 Speed
ABS & TC
Dark Charcoal
Side Air Bags
I'm assuming this is what you're referring to...........
I think we all got the 05 Mustang Brochure before buying/ordering....the one with the Red GT on the cover. Go to page 23, the Specifications section. Top of page; STANDARD FEATURES; Right under that is Mechanical; and the first item under that is 100,000-MILE TUNE-UP INTERVAL* and at the bottom of the page is........ *Under normal driving conditions with routine fluid and filter changes.
Uhh... so that's the first mechanical tune up? Timing belt etc.??? And wasn't it the dealer refering to it...?? 'cross-eyed' Happy St. P Day!!
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KJ, poorer but happier
Thanks to: Modular Depot Fox Lake Racing Tunable Induction Power House 411 Sun Coast Creations