Purchased the SB filter cleaning kit from Steeda shortly after getting the CAI last year, and have been researching the filter cleaning schedule recently. Most all the CAIs advertise that their filter is good for 150K miles but don't really say how often you should use the cleaning kit. The cleaning kit says it has enough cleaner fluid and filter oil for three applications but doesn't say how often you should apply it. The only "rule of thumb" I have to go by is for stock air filters, which should be changed every 10-15K.
So question 1 for the AFM 'hood is: How often do you clean your CAI filter?
Have also been waiting over a week for an e-mail response from Steeda re use of the cleaning kit. The instructions (as I'm finding with a lot of car products and parts) are just for scheise. "DO NOT OVER-OIL THE FILTER." Awright, fine. So how much oil is too much? That of course they do not say...
Thus, question 2: Can anyone share a link or some knowledge on this task?
What the auto parts industry really needs is a group of technical writers who get with the engineers and translate their instructions/directions into clear, understandable, and comprehensive English. (This was pointed out by Robert Pirsig in Zen And The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance thirty years ago, so nothing's new under the sun on this front.)
"Serenity now!!"
Thanks as always for the help...
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"I may never be famous, but my girls Dixi and Luci sure are."
Dixi Candace: Windveil Blue Stick V6 '05, Steeda CAI w/BBK 70mmTB/hi-flo inlet, XCal2, ASP UP, JBA SS Shorties/Evol, FRPP T-Lok diff, 34/28 mm F/R sway bars, MMR rear LCAs, Monte C. strut bar, Precision 3.73s, Snow H2OCH4O, "Q" grille and tons of Dixi Bling chrome
I thought I might update this tread since I just cleaned my filter and had some of the same problems. I bought the S&B air filter cleaner kit and the directions call for "correct amount of oil is CRITICAL to the proper functioning of the filter. Applying too much or not enough oil to filter could result in damage to engine components." Problem is how much is too much? Or too little? I have no idea. My oil came in an aerosol can and according to S&B's website you can weight the can before and after to get the right amount. But I didn't have a scale to measure grams so i just went for it (cause I'm an idiot )
1) Tap the air filter several times to remove debris, then use a clean soft bristle paint brush to remove the rest.
2) Spray the provided cleaner generosly over the entire filter. Let soak for 10 minutes.
3) Rinse the filter with regular tap water (don't use high-pressure hoses) until you see no more dirty water. Shake off excess water and let dry...I put mine in front of a fan for about 30 mintues.
4) Applying oil. Treat it as if you were spray painting. Hold the can back about 6-8 inches make even passes and don't concentrate in one area. I started lightly...making sure to get an even coat over the entire filter. Let it sit for 20 minutes and check for lighter spots. Add more oil to those areas if needed.
I thought that I might've over oiled so I used a paper towel to lightly brush away excess oil.
5) Reinstall
I've driven the car about 25 miles since and no problems so far.
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2006 GT Tungsten Grey...Steeda CAI w/High Flow Elbow | SCT | CMDP's | Steeda UDP's | Hurst Short Throw | Steeda Ultralight Springs | CHE LCA's | FRPP GTA's | 18" Anthracite Deep Dish Bullitts w/ Pony Caps | MRT Hood Struts | GT500 spoiler | GT500 Pedals | CDC Classic Chin Spoiler | Midwest Auto Gear Mirror Covers | 3D Carbon Center Mount Grille | Sequential Tailights | Xenon Side Scoops
Instead of an oiled filter try a dry filter. You can just blow them clean from the inside out using an air compressor. The oiled filters take more effort to clean and you risk over oiling them, thereby affecting your MAF.
Cleaning may also depend on where you live the dustier the area you may need to clean it more often to aviod dusting the engine which your warranty will not cover.If you do not live in a dusty desert enviroment you will not need to as often.I would check it from time to time and see for your self.
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Airraid CAI/BAMA tune,moto blue pullies,3:73`s,LPW girdle;Powerhouse DS,CHE safety loop,CHE LCA`S & Adjustable UCA,Kooks LT`S & O/R X Pipe,prothane MM`s,Steeda CMDP`S,Eibach springs,Tokico D specs,Polished TB(by Me),Steeda radiator support,MT DR`S,Zex kit 100 shot. Taylor Relocation batter kit and cut off switch
11:933 ET, 1.674 60`,111.877 MPH 5600 feet above sea level 6900 D/A
I have both an AEM dryflow and an old oiled S&B. The dryflow is far easier to maintain.
Stlwagon, do you think the dryflow would work better than oiled S&B in a incredibly dusty area here in New Mexico? I know they make these filters really hight tech and supposedly better than than what is required.
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Airraid CAI/BAMA tune,moto blue pullies,3:73`s,LPW girdle;Powerhouse DS,CHE safety loop,CHE LCA`S & Adjustable UCA,Kooks LT`S & O/R X Pipe,prothane MM`s,Steeda CMDP`S,Eibach springs,Tokico D specs,Polished TB(by Me),Steeda radiator support,MT DR`S,Zex kit 100 shot. Taylor Relocation batter kit and cut off switch
11:933 ET, 1.674 60`,111.877 MPH 5600 feet above sea level 6900 D/A
Last edited by BKid; 03-02-2008 at 12:02 PM.
Reason: spelling
Stlwagon, do you think the dryflow would work better than oiled S&B in a incredibly dusty area here in New Mexico? I know they make these filters really hight tech and supposably better than than what is required.
I think so... They supposedly filter out smaller micron contaminants than the oiled filters.