[Summit_1000]

Originally Posted by stlwagon

Who told you that?

experience:
2000 vortech centri-charged corvette. 600rwhp. broke.
2006 viper centri-charged. broke.
twin turbo Ford GT40. broke. and a centri-charged CAV GT40 replica.
1987 mustang GT with twin turbo setup. KABOOOM!
they are not my cars, but i did work with them alot. like not on them, but driving them around and stuff. friends.
I did, however, own the 2000 corvette. long story how i got a V6.

yup. track conditions are hell. hot dry. long laps, long days.
so far, the only guys that are going good are the ones with the roots-blowers on them.

[tached_out]

WHAT... First off Roots are one of the most inefficient S/C's. They create ALOT of heat and for our cars are REALLY easily over spooled. They can not handle a lot of Boost. I think the Roush maxes out at 8PSI.

They are expensive and over priced for the gains they give you and there potential and have more room for failure because they OVER heat.
How the heck do Centrifugals break? I am sooo curious. Maybe a Vortech or a Paxton with a 6 rib pulley and you break the belt. I broke my belt as well on my procharger but that is a belt 20$ fix... Any car that is making ALOT of power will have belt issues at least one time.

As for turbos they are ran off of wasted exhaust and are known to be the most efficient system there is

[stlwagon]

Weird... of the 50+ people I know with various setups, I haven't seen a single turbo or centri failure that was linked to drag racing. I guess you got them all

[stlwagon]

Originally Posted by tact_out

WHAT... First off Roots are one of the most inefficient S/C's. They create ALOT of heat and for our cars are REALLY easily over spooled. They can not handle a lot of Boost. I think the Roush maxes out at 8PSI.

They are expensive and over priced for the gains they give you and there potential and have more room for failure because they OVER heat.
How the heck do Centrifugals break? I am sooo curious. Maybe a Vortech or a Paxton with a 6 rib pulley and you break the belt. I broke my belt as well on my procharger but that is a belt 20$ fix... Any car that is making ALOT of power will have belt issues at least one time.

As for turbos they are ran off of wasted exhaust and are known to be the most efficient system there is

Unless it runs out of oil, all I can see are belt or tensioner issues.

[bigwilly43729]

I guess it's all in preference. I couldn't spend that much cash on the engine and not get the power adder. Now if I were doing p/p heads and Crower Cams for instance, then it would be justified.

[tached_out]

sounds like personal error to me. I have seen a blown roots blower before... Thats what happens when you try to run 10psi on a Roush for a long period of time and the blower is so over spooled and hot that it just gives up.

[Summit_1000]

yea well... Im always the odd man out.
but back to a stroker kit...
4.6L to 5.0L kit here i come.

crap, the trany issue again. MMR has a T56 with a shorten driveshat and a shifter.

[tached_out]

The stock transmission would be fine sense you wont be making much power

[slvrstang2007]

If he was making 600+RWHP what kind of tranny would you guys suggest?

[tached_out]

tremec tr6060 if he is drag racing but I think the stock one is fine for road racing.

I think the stock 5 speed though is good enough. I have that one and its been running good at 545rwhp and I will have 650rwhp with the stock 5 speed.

He is into road racing he said in another thread so I think the stock 5 speed will be fine as long as he is not grinding gears but even if he is that will tear up any transmission. Sense transmissions mostly break from torque. There really is no hard launches in road racing so torque should not be an issue

[bigwilly43729]

A new tranny cooler wouldn't hurt anything. Heat is not your friend when it comes to trannys.

[Summit_1000]

ahh, seeing as the engines coming out, might as well replace the trany... couldn't hurt.
I hate the 5 speed, every time i down shift from 5th, it either goes into revers fourth or third.

[tached_out]

That is not the transmission that has more to do with your driving (no offense) and the shifter you have. If you switch over to an MGW you will not have those issues.

[Summit_1000]

really sorry for double posting here, but i need some more opinions and information covered.

Before wanting to pull the V6 for a 4.6L v8, I wanted to do a V6 to 302 swap. Not the old 302, the new one with GT40 heads and stuff.
I was going to order the 302 with a holley commander EFI kit.
But no one would tell me compatible transmissions, what's included in the crate...

This was a cheep idea too, the whole engine with components for $10,000.00
But i have a funny feeling that the K-member would need to come out, and a custom bell housing would have to be made to fit a T56 or TKO600.

AND i would have more stock HP than a GT. But then again, a 4.6L GT with a 302 stroker kit would make the same HP for less, its just that actually buying the GT is expensive.

V6 to 302: $10,000.00 for engine + $20,000.00 for car + $5000.00 for a Trany kit + at least $3000.00 for rearend and whatnot.
= $38,000.00

V8 to 302: " " + $36,000.00 for car + "trany" + maybe $2000.00 for stuff
= $53,000.00

V8 to 302 by stroker kit.: $36,000 + 4000.00 for kit = $40,000.00

either of the above methods are by no means cheep for the average working north american.

so, tell me what you think.

[bigwilly43729]

How are you paying 36K for a V8? Or do you mean 36K after the engine is in? That's still too much IMO. You can get a GT for ~20K, build the engine for about 8K (that includes heads and cams), tack on another 5-6K for the tranny (if you replace it; Level 10 offers kits that will strengthen it for MUCH less). Pile on about 1000-1500 for suspension and you should be set and you still come in under 36K or real close.

It sounds like you plan on doing much of this work yourself, or have some buddies help you. That will definitely cut down on labor. Depending on your status, you could just build the engine with the block you have. I'm just saying that your numbers were a bit exaggerated. I would look around and price everything out to compare. Great example: I want a 5.0 stroker, but I can get a 5.4 for $600 less. More cubes, more power, less money. Just don't have the stroked status. Just gotta shop around.

Good luck!!