hey guys was wondering what ic an do to get the stang to get off the line much quicker than usual, i want to be able to hit 0-60 quicker. i have 3.73's on them, and want to know what else i can do besides going with 4.10's. Also, i dont think i am getting the maximum horsepower thorugh all my mods, if i take it to a dyno, would the guys actually tune it to its peak performance with the mods i have ( CAI, 3.73's, Diablo Predator Tuner (93 octane) , flowmaster exhaust, auto, but i do slap shift often). I just want to get the most out of what I paid for and figure out how to get off the line quicker. thanks
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I have not been to a dyno yet but I think you can have it dynoed and they can tell you what they can do for a tune after that. I was quoted about $80.00 for the dyno and the tune would be a seperate charge if I wanted it. The dyno will tell you what you have and how well or bad your car is running.
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07 GT. Exterior mods n/a. Engine mods, see profile.
One of the more powerful cars around.
One of the slower cars around.
Makes me feel like a kid every time.
Don't look to the dyno as the cure-all for all performance woes. I have several canned tunes that perform equally as well as my dyno tunes. The dyno is a good tool to develop a solid baseline and also to ensure safety with timing and fuel. With just a CAI and gears I don't think you'd see a substantial improvement over your existing tune (unless it's way out of whack).
hey guys was wondering what ic an do to get the stang to get off the line much quicker than usual
I didn't see any comment in there about traction which is by far my biggest issue coming off the line...
Even before I started ripping either of the cars apart, I could not apply the power available without smoking the tires...
Addressing that requires:
1. better/wider rubber (10" rear rim)
2. Poly UCA (adjustable if you are lowered) - LCA's don't hurt either, but are less important than the UCA which is alone up there trying to keep the top of your rear axle in check...
3. Did I mention more/better rubber?
4. If you are really serious a clutch that can better handle the pain of higher RPM launches, but that generally isn't needed until you have more power...
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'06 GT Vert - Saleen S/C
'05 GT Coupe - Under Construction - currently etching an "11" on the dial
'85 GT T-Top 351W N/A
Don't look to the dyno as the cure-all for all performance woes. I have several canned tunes that perform equally as well as my dyno tunes. The dyno is a good tool to develop a solid baseline and also to ensure safety with timing and fuel. With just a CAI and gears I don't think you'd see a substantial improvement over your existing tune (unless it's way out of whack).
Boy, Mark knows his stuff.
I may have an 88 but I would think improving the rear suspension for better traction would help out. Upper and lower control arms, bushings, tires, adjustable shocks and better springs?
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I agree... UCA will really help control the axle rotation and the stronger LCAs will also help keep things focused better on the ground as well as help maintain a straight launch.
First of peak hp will not help you get off the line. That task belongs to low end torque. Secondly, with an auto trans, a good high-stall converter would have a major impact on launching. Of course, big low end torque and a good converter is useless if all you do is spin. So, you'd need to make sure all the traction components (tires, suspension) are up to it.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
hey guys was wondering what ic an do to get the stang to get off the line much quicker than usual, i want to be able to hit 0-60 quicker. i have 3.73's on them, and want to know what else i can do besides going with 4.10's. Also, i dont think i am getting the maximum horsepower thorugh all my mods, if i take it to a dyno, would the guys actually tune it to its peak performance with the mods i have ( CAI, 3.73's, Diablo Predator Tuner (93 octane) , flowmaster exhaust, auto, but i do slap shift often). I just want to get the most out of what I paid for and figure out how to get off the line quicker. thanks
I basically have the same mods you do except for gears. I have found (after some suggestions) that heating up your street tires.......NOT GOOD. when you heat the radials it just makes them more slick.
I used to bring rpm up to about 1700 just before tires would start to rotate, now I only go to 1200. this way I dig instead of spin. Launching off the line is a bit more than stomping the gas at the 3rd yellow light. It's more of a finese thing. I know everything is happening fast, but you have to get in sync. Try to not go completely to the floor at launch, do that once the car starts to move. Its almost like a slow push to the floor instead of a stomp. Its hard to get used to your car and what it does in every situation, but if you want good consistant launches that is what you are going to have to do.
FOr instance, I know that when I instantly got to WOT there is about a 1/2 second before the motor actually starts to rev. that means instead of going on third yellow light, I go just befor 3rd light comes on.
It just takes practice, everyone here can tell you what to do, but until you do it over and over. you will continue to spin.
First time I took my new Stang to the track, I made about 30 consecutive launches. First r/t was 1.2, then I was started cutting .505 to .586, when I got to that point I was starting to get comfortable. Also, no matter how many times you get in a parking lot and work on launches, its just not the same as dealing with a the tree.
you can work out some of the bugs if the parking lot is asphault. Concrete may equal no spin, where as the track you may spin 20' off the line.
Hope This Helps
Help gettin off the line. 
