How about sway bars and shocks/struts without lowering? Worth the money?
I don't want to go lower...
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2006 Redfire GT Vert Auto, every factory option, 490rwhp JDM Saleen SC, One piece driveshaft, Steeda ultralight springs - rear adjustable UCA and LCAs, CHE relo brackets, Granelli front cross-member, Intrax sway bars, Tokico dampers, Hawk brake pads, Shelby Redline wheels and Nitto tires, GT500 exhaust, FRPP 3.73's, Pioneer AVIC-D3 navigation head unit, and Saleen HID headlights. See profile for appearance mods
I asked that same question on another forum which I cannot reveal due to the rules here
But, this is what they told me,
Here is what I recommend for a stock spring S197 chassis to improve handling performance and grip.
Tokico D-Spec struts and dampers, much improved ride and better control, adjustable to suit road and/or type of track and conditions
Eibach adjustable camber bolt kit, allows setting increased negative camber for much better corning grip under cornering load
Steeda front anti-roll bar, decreased body roll for less camber loss and improved tire contact patch, adjustable to alter F/R handling balance
Steeda rear anti-roll bar, decreased body roll for less camber loss and improved tire contact patch
Steeda front control arm bushing insert kit, improved steering response and handling feel
Steeda or BMR fixed lenght tubular lower control arms w/poly bushings on both ends, reduces wheel hop, improved axle location
Steeda or BMR adjustable upper control arm w/poly bushing, reduces wheel hop, improved axle location, adjusts pinion angle
Larger 18"X9" wheels of your choice with 255/45X18 dry performance tires
Precision thrust alignment, you'll need ths once you install the new struts and camber bolts, ideally set camber -1 to -1.5 degrees camber and 1/16the toe out loaded
This setup will get you most the performance of a lowered car but without the advantages of a lower CG and increased spring rates (which greatly decrease brake dive, rear-end squat and body roll). You don't need to bother with the front or rear control arm relocation work because you are keeping the stock ride height so the control arms retain the stock geometry relationships which is very good to start with. If this is a car that will go to the drag strip running DOT slicks or drag slicks very often you may want to consider the BMR LCA brackets to improve your car's launch grip. You also probably don't need or want adjustable lower control arms either as you can set your pinion angle using the adjustable UCA.
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2006 GT Tungsten Grey 5 spd, Xcal2/Pipeline CAI, Powerhouse tune. Spoiler delete. Front Speakers:Infinity 6812CF;Blaupunkt GTc652. Rear:Infinity Kappa 682.7CF. H/U:Alpine CDA-9885. Alpine MRP-F250 amp. Sequentials. President of the Splash guard registry. On Deck: Motoblue UDP's.
