Well, it took me 5 days but I'm done. The good news is that the car started right up and drove 100% as it should right out the garage. The only hiccup was one of the KB clamps on the small elbow hose that runs from the intercooler pump to the heat exchanger was leaking. And since KB put those clamps on at the factory and they're not adjustable, I cut those suckers off and I put my own clamps on. Solved that.
The car drives perfect. Around town it's absolutely 100% stock... That is, if you keep your foot out of it. Jump on the gas and the car pulls like there's no tomorrow!! I'm completely 100% happy with the way it turned out. What a BEAST!
The bad news is that I threw the serpentine belt out on a road in the middle of nowhere. Going from 3rd to 4th at wide open throttle and all of the sudden when I hit 4th the boost was gone. "Hmmmm...that's odd." Then I realized my power steering was gone to. The belt was still intact, albeit slightly frayed on the edge in one place. I called a friend and went home and got a breaker bar and put the belt back on and limped home. I'll be calling KB tomorrow to find out why it may have come off. I assume that I can change the position of the idler puller on the new KB idler bracket and that may solve the issue. There's three holes on the bracket and the instructions said to mount the pulley in the top hole. I don't know how much play is supposed to be in the belt, but changing the mounting hole one hole lower might do the trick. I'll see what KB says.
There were a few things in the instructions that seemed a little out of order to me. For example, they had me put the splash pan back on and lower the car but then when it came time to put the belt on I had to jack the car up again and take the splash pan off again. The wires that came with the Boost A Pump were not long enough to mount the unit in my trunk so that it was out of the way when the rear trunk trim piece went back on. I had to lengthen the wires. I was not able to put the supercharger unit on top of the intake manifold because the fuel rail pressure adapter and fuel rail pressure sensor were in the way. It would have been simpler to have waited to put them on until after the SC went on. And the intercooler pump was in the way and I could NOT get the heat exchanger into position to mount it correctly until I took the pump off and then reassembled it after the heat exchanger was in place. I also had some problems keeping the metal heater hose properly seated against the fitting after I attached the "bolt from hell". I had to bend the mounting bracket to account for this, which made it VERY hard to reattach the BFH after bending the bracket as needed. And last but not least - and feel free to call me a moron - but the instructions specifically said to remove the coolant recovery tank cap and coolant crossover bleed plug and start the engine and let it run until the thermostat opens. Okay. The instructions failed to mention the geyser of yellow coolant that will shoot up like a fountain all over your engine once you crank it over. I thought it sounded strange, but the instructions were so specific about this that I followed it blindly. A practical joke by KB? They got me good! LOL
Overall though, complete kudos for KB by designing one heck of a nice SC system and writing what appeared to be the best set of instructions for how to install a SC.
Also, thanks for everyone's input the last few days when I got stuck and had some questions!!
Tony
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06 Black GT Premium 5-Speed Coupe - Ford Racing Handling Pack - 20" Black Falken Koblenz Wheels - Kenne Bell 2.6L S/C
I also had to replace one of those crimp on clamps. The pump needed to be loose to get exchager in. I did have to lengthen the Boost-a-Pump wires, but am thinking that it should have somehow gone in the middle of rear panel? No problem with the coolant bleed. My tune did not work very well so I got retuned by ModularPowerhouse.
I haven't had any belt problems yet. Make sure the idler pulley actually seats all the way. I have heard that the pulley may hit a bump on the bracket.
Paul
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2006 Roush Sport Vert Performance KB2.6L ,Roush Rear Springs, Roush Short Throw, SOS Double Pod/Autometer Boost & Fuel Pressure, Raptor in Vent, J&M APB & LCAs Appearance Midwest Auto Strut Covers and Radiator Extensions
Also put real clamps on the fuel rail supply hoses. The book says it doesn't need clamps. I say it does because I had gas sprayed all over my engine one of those suckers popped off.
Nice job. It's fun as heck, eh?
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2005 Mustang GT with 04 Cobra iron block, 300 ci, Kenne Bell 2.6l twin screw, P&P S3 Heads, SS valves, Comp S3 cams, Currie 9+ 9" rear end and DS (coming soon), Hurst shifter, BMR K-member, A-arms, LCAs & UCA, JBA long tubes & mid-pipe, Accel COPs, GT500 fuel pumps, much more... 659 RWHP, 598 Tq @ 12 psi & 5800 RPM
Check your tensioner... the stock Ford tensioner can bend and cause you to toss belts. I also added an idler puller back in at location #7.
And welcome to the KB club!!
.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
Check your tensioner... the stock Ford tensioner can bend and cause you to toss belts. I also added an idler puller back in at location #7.
And welcome to the KB club!!
.
Thanks. KB had me break off a tab on the tensioner so it would have more range of motion. I also moved the idler puller on the new KB idler bracket down one bolt hole which put the tensioner more in the middle of its stroke. So it should be better able to keep tension on the belt now. We'll see.
The car is stupid fast. Wow.
Tony
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06 Black GT Premium 5-Speed Coupe - Ford Racing Handling Pack - 20" Black Falken Koblenz Wheels - Kenne Bell 2.6L S/C
Check your tensioner... the stock Ford tensioner can bend and cause you to toss belts. I also added an idler puller back in at location #7.
And welcome to the KB club!!
.
Hey Don,
I'm having another issue with my belt. There's a wear spot on the edge of the rear of the belt where it's hitting the boss where pulley 7 used to be. I shredded part of my belt the other day (and my hood liner!!! ) and I believe that's what caused it. What pulley did you add at #7, the one KB had you remove? Did you keep the larger pulley they provided for #5? Are you using the same belt or did you have to use another one?
Thanks for the info!!
Tony
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06 Black GT Premium 5-Speed Coupe - Ford Racing Handling Pack - 20" Black Falken Koblenz Wheels - Kenne Bell 2.6L S/C
Also put real clamps on the fuel rail supply hoses. The book says it doesn't need clamps. I say it does because I had gas sprayed all over my engine one of those suckers popped off.
Nice job. It's fun as heck, eh?
Thanks for the heads up on these!!! I'll put some on ASAP.
I took the car to a car show on Sunday. It got a LOT of attention. As far as I know, I have the only new gen Mustang with a supercharger in my town. Nice!
Tony
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06 Black GT Premium 5-Speed Coupe - Ford Racing Handling Pack - 20" Black Falken Koblenz Wheels - Kenne Bell 2.6L S/C
Saleen S/C 3.2 pulley tuned by JDM Engineering, GT500 pumps, CHE goodies on the rear, 4.10's, KOOKS/ high flow catted X pipe with PYPES Violators, Spydershaft, TCI 3500 stall, PA deep tranny pan. Meziere w/p,M&H 325/45/17 DRs.
future mods.... a 3.0 pulley
I'm having another issue with my belt. There's a wear spot on the edge of the rear of the belt where it's hitting the boss where pulley 7 used to be. I shredded part of my belt the other day (and my hood liner!!! ) and I believe that's what caused it. What pulley did you add at #7, the one KB had you remove? Did you keep the larger pulley they provided for #5? Are you using the same belt or did you have to use another one?
Thanks for the info!!
Tony
First of all, I'm running an 8-rib belt system, so I'm not using a KB-supplied belt. I can get 8-rib Gates belts at NAPA (122.3").
If I recall correctly, when Adam put the motor back in, he took the pulley from another 8-rib kit he had there. I believe it is the 3-1/2" idler which goes in the #1 position on the KB diagram. Here are a couple pics from underneath.
.
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2005 Sonic Blue, a.k.a. "BAD 05 GT", Auto Trans (and damn proud of it!) Best 1/8 mi: 6.691 @ 103.04, DA= 1,166' (2-19-09) Best 1/4 mi: 10.37 @ 132.98 (3-14-08)
Kenne Bell 2.8L SC, Boss 5.0 Block w/Cobra crank, Diamond Pistons, Scat Rods, Livernois P&P Heads - Check out my Homepage for Full Mod List and Videos
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwilly43729
HP numbers are good and all, but they are like asking someone how much they can bench. What difference does it make if I can still kick your a$$?
Kenne Bell Supercharger is in! 
) and I believe that's what caused it. What pulley did you add at #7, the one KB had you remove? Did you keep the larger pulley they provided for #5? Are you using the same belt or did you have to use another one? 
congrats on your purchase!!
