Help!!! Rear End Noise

05BlackKnight · 05-05-2008

Just recently I started noticing a wierd vibrating noise coming from my rear. I can feel the vibration in my shifter and in my clutch. The first thing I thought to check was my rear rotors which I replaced with new ones and new pads, and the vibration is still there. Today I had brand new wheels and tires put on and still the vibration is there. It doesnt really make a noise when Im driving but you can definately feel it. I dont think its the rear shocks either since there is no wave like motion while Im driving that you typically get when you have bad shocks. I did notice though that when I push hard on the rear tires with my hands it makes a clanking noise as if something is lose right behind the tire. All the lugs nuts are tight so I know its not just a lose tire. Could this be a bad bearing or something in the rear, or maybe even the rear itself? Im not too familiar with mustang rear ends so if anyone has any ideas Id appreciate it. Thanks.

DOUG87GN · 05-05-2008

Might want to check the u-joints. They can cause vibrations and noise. They are fairly inexpensive also. Probably around $20 each plus install. The clunking noise is probably the axle sliding in and out as you try to move, the is a little slack in there. Have some one help you jack the car up and put an some solid jack stands or go to a lift some where(much safer) put the car in gear and watch/ listen to see if you can pin-point it.

05BlackKnight · 05-06-2008

Aight thanks for the info. Im going to try to take it to the Ford Dealer tomorrow and have them take a look at it. It is still under warranty but I dont know if the universals would be under that. If not it shouldnt be that hard of a fix, Ive changed universals before but none on anything this new. Is it a tough job?

DOUG87GN · 05-06-2008

If have changed u-joints before shouldn't be a problem, just harder to get under a stang than some vehicles since they sit lower.

fishingjts · 05-06-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by DOUG87GN

If have changed u-joints before shouldn't be a problem, just harder to get under a stang than some vehicles since they sit lower.

Since he has a 2005, he probably has the driveshaft with the staked in u-joints (not clipped in)... which means i think it's basically impossible to just replace the u-joints... would give him the perfect chance to get rid of the terrible stock driveshaft and upgrade to a better one!!!

05BlackKnight · 05-06-2008

if thats the case what would be a good driveshaft to buy....and i know it probably wouldnt be but would the driveshaft be under factory warranty?

fishingjts · 05-06-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by 05BlackKnight

if thats the case what would be a good driveshaft to buy....and i know it probably wouldnt be but would the driveshaft be under factory warranty?

i would think the driveshaft would be covered under the 3 year/36,000 mile warranty...

thing is you'ld be replacing a crappy stock DS with a crappy stock DS... The aftermarket ones are sooooo much smoother! I highly recommend Shaftmasters... here is my writeup: The Mistress Gets The Shaft

05BlackKnight · 05-06-2008

Well if it comes down to it ill probably just get the stock driveshaft replaced if it is under warranty yet. Though I think my supercharger would probably void that warranty since obviously the engine is pushing out more horses which equals more strain on the shaft. Im sure already driving at speeds of 135 and up with the stock driveshaft is not good either. That one you posted looks like it is a pretty good driveshaft. How much does one of those for a V6 run and what all do I need partswise to put it on?

fishingjts · 05-06-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by 05BlackKnight

Well if it comes down to it ill probably just get the stock driveshaft replaced if it is under warranty yet. Though I think my supercharger would probably void that warranty since obviously the engine is pushing out more horses which equals more strain on the shaft. Im sure already driving at speeds of 135 and up with the stock driveshaft is not good either. That one you posted looks like it is a pretty good driveshaft. How much does one of those for a V6 run and what all do I need partswise to put it on?

Yikes!! There have been multiple incidents of driveshaft failures at about 130MPH... Luckily they were while the cars were on the dyno... but still some of them had quite a bit of collateral damage when the driveshaft let loose!

Looks like shaftmaster is $445... I could not believe how much smoother my car was after dumping the stock DS... no more vibrations! Very very smooth!

05BlackKnight · 05-06-2008

Aight thanks for all the info, with that in mind now i will definately look into the shaftmasters driveshaft, it goes to the shop tomorrow to get checked out, ill post then what was wrong.

05BlackKnight · 05-07-2008

Welp I took my Mustang to the Ford Dealer to get checked today. The mechanic drove it for a test to see if he could tell what the vibration was. When they brought it back to the shop and put it on a lift they checked the drive shaft and said is was fine. The only thing that they could come up with is that the exhaust hanger rubber bushing by the cross member has bottomed out on the one side. Ford told them that when this type of vibration occurs that that hanger and bushing should be cut off. The only problem is that is for a stock v6 mustang which only has one hanger at the cross member, not two like mine. My exhaust only has 4 hangers on it right now, just two at the cross member and one at each muffler. Obviously cutting the two cross member hangers off would not be good holding the whole system up by two hangers. So they suggested not to. This left me pretty much hanging so nothing was fixed. I don't think just because the one side rubber bushing is shot an the exhaust has play on that side would make everything vibrate as a i drive. The only solution I have as of right now is two cut those two hangers off and put two hangers farther back towards the middle of the car where there was hangers before the dual exhaust was put on. If any one else has had this problem because of a shot rubber bushing let me know. I really don't know what else to do to fix this annoying vibration. Any suggestions?

RedFire281 · 05-08-2008

Here's a TSB that might help the tech diagnose the problem. I'd print it out and take it to them and have them perform the diagnostic.

05BlackKnight · 05-08-2008

Yea that is exactly the hanger that has bottomed out. They said though that the tsb said they were supposed to cut it off it the rubber bushing is shot. Is there any place that sells though crossmember hangers?

RedFire281 · 05-08-2008

Try these.

Pypes 304 Stainless Steel Exhaust Hanger Kit (2005+)

And from what I understand, they need to be welded at the area where the mid-pipe attaches to the cross-over (x or h pipe). I've read several posts from people who have converted their single to duals and every post indicated that adding the hangers made all the difference in the world. A couple of guys said they also added hangers where the mid-pipe attached to the muffler. I don't know whose dual setup you're using but you might have to consider that addition as well.

I hope this is your issue and everything works out well.

EDIT: BTW, I've seen guy's who had they're muffler shop just weld solid round steel hangers at the mid-pipe/crossover (without the rubber damper), and it worked just as well and costs a lot less. Maybe that's an option for you.

John

05BlackKnight · 05-08-2008

I just got back from having the exhaust shop put on two mid pipe hangers they stabilized any movement from the exhaust. The guy working their though said that the bottomed out hanger is not the problem. So I still have this vibration in my clutch and shifter that is like a constant quiet bump that I can feel. I really can feel it when I coast down a mountain in neutral. It almost feels as if it is at the same rate as the tire spins because the slower i get the less it is. I guess my next plan is to get an aluminum driveshaft. If that doesnt fix it then I dont know what to do.