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Old 05-06-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Default 2007 Mustang V6 modifications

We've got a 2007 Automatic V6 Mustang with a dual cat-back exhaust with an X-pipe and a Ford Racing cold air intake.
Next month we are adding headers. - what type of headers should we get?
We are hopefully going to add a supercharger next spring...possibly sooner if we come up with the money before that. - what type of supercharger should we buy for a 2007 Automatic V6?
Also my boyfriend doesn't really know the mechanics of cars as he is just getting into them and I haven't a clue about anything...so, I've read a bunch of talk about the rear end when you go and add a lot of power like a supercharger to a Mustang. What does that mean? If we get a supercharger what will we have to do to the rear end to enable it to handle the new power?
Any other suggestions for power upgrades/anything that will make it run better. Someone suggested a throttlebody? What is this and how will it benefit our car?
I'm a girl and know absolutely nothing about cars or how they work...but I'm trying to learn here...kinda hard when your bf knows not much more than you do though .
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Old 05-06-2008   #2 (permalink)
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here try this site it should have everything you need i would hold off on the throttle body until you get the supercharger right now i would go with some suspension upgrades and some new gears

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Old 05-06-2008   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 1989gtfifty View Post
here try this site it should have everything you need i would hold off on the throttle body until you get the supercharger right now i would go with some suspension upgrades and some new gears

Ford Mustang Engine Parts at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!

So I have seen suspension upgrade packages...and I've just found info on gears. I read a customer review of the gears that you should buy a posi-traction differential along with the gears. The gears seem like a pretty simple and cheap mod. Thank you for that suggestion.
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Old 05-09-2008   #4 (permalink)
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really, the question is do you want stock-style "shorties" or Longtubes (have much longer tubes coming down and collecting underneath the car and would need a shortened mid pipe to fit correctly). if you want longtubes, MAC is your only option at this point. with shorties, however, you've got Pypes, JBA, and a few others out there. Stainless steel will hold up best over time, ceramic coated withstands heat better. past that they're pretty much all the same across the board as far as i know.

As far as superchargers go ask yourself do you want it to seem like it's stock until you either pop the hood or step on it? if so the X-charger from explorerexpress.com would be the way to go. it makes no noise at idle or light throttle but whenever you step on it, it begins to whine as the rotors are forcing more air into your motor. If you want people to look at your kinda like "what's under the hood of that thing?" even when just idling the car, centrifugal blower is the way to go, it's belt driven just like the X-charger but creates boost by way of a turbine just like a turbo but is belt driven rather whereas a turbo is exhaust driven. For the Centrifugal blowers look at vortech and procharger systems. you can find those at pretty much any places that sells peformance parts for the V6 mustangs
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Old 05-09-2008   #5 (permalink)
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I guess considering I have a forced induction v6 (turbo) i would be a good person to ask about this stuff.

First you wanna ask yourself if you really want a supercharger or if you want to get a turbocharger. I will let you look up the differences on that, this is a link to a good thread about the differences between the two http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ercharger.html

I personally went the turbo route, if your going to be adding either a turbo or a supercharger you should spend alot of money on supporting mods or you might end up like me, i was able to drive 60 miles on the turbo before my engine is now beyond repair, or should i say, its able to be repaired but its alot cheaper to just buy a new motor.

You will need a 8.8 Rear end which can be found here,
Mustang 8.8" Rear Axle<br>Assembly 2005-2008 3.73:1<br>Ratio w/ABS w/Trac-Loc<br>Pinion Flange For Mustang V6 - FR3-6010-05AF
^^ that comes with a posi rear end so that both your tires spin and 3.73 gears already installed, on that site you can also get the same thing but with 3.55 gears or 4.10s, if your going to drive the car daily i would go with the 3.73's

The reason you need the 8.8 is because the 7.5 can not handle the power that you put out, its fine until you start reaching that 300 rwhp mark, it could go sooner or it might last forever but the chances are it will go and you really dont wanna bust your rear end, as a couple people can tell you, its no fun.

If your going to be racing the car your going to want to buy an aftermarket driveshaft, i would recommend anything from powerhouse but others have reported good things about spydershafts ( i think thats the name i could be wrong ) Heres the link for the Driveshaft you would want

PowerHouse Automotive V6 Auto 4" Aluminum Driveshaft [PHA-DS05V6 AUTO] - $519.99 : Powerhouse411

The reason you will need that if racing is because the stock driveshaft is only rated at 115mph, i cant find the video but i saw someones driveshaft bust at 120 mph on a dyno, mine personally was fine when i went 138 mph but im not going to do that again till i get a new driveshaft.

Now here's something you can decide on... i lost my motor due to burnt up cylinders and a blown headgasket and most likely some more damage, the headgasket alone would have cost close to $2,000 to repair, if you go to http://supersixmotorsports.com they offer aftermarket heads but these kind of things are quite expensive, you could go without the aftermarket heads and what not but if this is your only form of transportation you need to be very careful with adding this much horsepower because you run the risk of being without your car for awhile.
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415 rwhp/470 torque @12 psi Car died 6/23/09
New Set Up: 4.6 3v With Manual Trans, Bolt Ons
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Old 05-09-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goguenm View Post
I'm a girl and know absolutely nothing about cars or how they work...but I'm trying to learn here...kinda hard when your bf knows not much more than you do though .
Thats good to hear that you want to learn. I have never stopped learning, and hope I never stop. If you want to try and do some of the work your self pick up a haynes manual for the car. I bought one a few weeks ago and find my self thinking of random things to read. If you can learn more then him too its always good. Its great to see women that know more then guys IMO. My g/f shocks the hell out of guys when they come to her work and she talks to them about cars and ends up giving them idea's or proves them wrong on stuff.. they get speachless.. its great
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Old 05-09-2008   #7 (permalink)
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It sounds like you already have a pretty good head start so here's my recommendation:

1. If you don't have strict pollution control inspections then go with the long tube headers. Shorties don't do much and IMHO you're wasting your money. The long tubes eliminate the cats so you won't pass a strict visual inspection.
2. Get lowering springs - it will improve handling and your car will stop looking like a 4x4.
3. At the same time you lower the car, install adjustable lower control arms - they will improve your launch and you can adjust the driveshaft/pinion angle if it changes. Your upper control arms will be okay unless you plan on doing a lot of serious autocross.
4. If you lower the car more than 1-1/2" in the rear, you will probably have to recenter the axle to the car so you might consider buying an adjustable panhard bar at the same time.
5. Next, get a lighter weight, single piece driveshaft - it will reduce the effort to overcome the enertia of a heavier d/s and help you accelerate faster.
6. Change your gearing and add a limited slip differential. I like 4.10 gears for the V6 automatic - the gears will get you to, and through, the power band faster and the LSD will limit wheel spin.
7. In the spring when you can afford forced induction, buy your supercharger or turbocharger; but keep the boost level so that your horsepower is just under 280 at the rear wheels. This is a little more hp at the wheels than a stock GT, noticeably more powerful, and still safe for your car. Boost/hp is controlled by pulley size so just use enough pulley to make the target hp. NOW .....
8. Save your money for an 8.8 rear end and once you have enough saved, buy a smaller pulley for your supercharger to up the hp. Drive it like its a rental and if you break the rear end you can buy a new 8.8, otherwise you've got money in the bank. By the way, it's not the hp that will kill the rear end, it's the additional torque that comes with it and turbochargers really up the torque even at safe hp levels. Do your research.

And just a last note - no doubt you can blow head gaskets and such, but a lot of people don't realize how sturdy the V6 engine's rotating assembly really is. It can take the added hp because although the connecting rods are not shot-peened, they are forged.

Just my .02. Good luck!

John
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Old 05-09-2008   #8 (permalink)
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haha that sturdy v6 comment is funny, in some aspects they are but others they are horrible, especially the heads, everyone should read this article

http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/pdf/40SOHCTech.pdf
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Current Numbers:
350 rwhp/420 torque @ 8.3 psi (low boost)
415 rwhp/470 torque @12 psi Car died 6/23/09
New Set Up: 4.6 3v With Manual Trans, Bolt Ons
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Old 05-09-2008   #9 (permalink)
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xchris, good article. I have a GT so I don't know much about supersix but I've heard good and not-so-good about them. But the specs make sense to me. Ahhhh ... if only we lived in a perfect world. lol

John
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Old 05-09-2008   #10 (permalink)
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yea i wish our engines could take anything but unfortunately thats not the case. What did you hear was bad about supersix?
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2006 V6 Pony Package Premium -Mods: 61mm Powerhouse Turbo and Intercooler, Evolution Dyno Tune(Jon Lund), Steeda Performance Shorty Headers.
Current Numbers:
350 rwhp/420 torque @ 8.3 psi (low boost)
415 rwhp/470 torque @12 psi Car died 6/23/09
New Set Up: 4.6 3v With Manual Trans, Bolt Ons
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Old 05-09-2008   #11 (permalink)
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I heard that for the 3.8L pushrod engines their strokers and kits are good but when it comes to the 4.3L SOHC stroker they talk the talk but when its time do deliver they haven't been able to. I think they've been talking about a 4.3L SOHC stroker for a couple of years but still only offer a forged 4.0L shortblock. I'm really not sure and I could be wrong. Although I haven't heard anything bad about their 4.0L heads, seems I heard their cams are regrinds and only marginal at best.

Again, I really don't know alot about Supersix so if I'm not right, I'd appreciate any update you have.

Thanks, -- John
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Old 05-09-2008   #12 (permalink)
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i dont know anything about them either, i have looked at their stuff but didnt realize how bad the 9:7 compression was for any power adder

i plan on saving up money and getting something from then eventually but its gonna be awhile, i need to take care of my engine right now, then get a new rear end, then driveshaft, and THEN i can think about internal work
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2006 V6 Pony Package Premium -Mods: 61mm Powerhouse Turbo and Intercooler, Evolution Dyno Tune(Jon Lund), Steeda Performance Shorty Headers.
Current Numbers:
350 rwhp/420 torque @ 8.3 psi (low boost)
415 rwhp/470 torque @12 psi Car died 6/23/09
New Set Up: 4.6 3v With Manual Trans, Bolt Ons
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