I would have negotiated Ford pays for the alternator test too. since you have been back and forth to them many times already and your lights were still flickering. they should have tested the battery back then as part of eliminating possibilities. and the dead battery still doesn't explain why your car was wanting to die when idling.
then, your old battery could probably have been pro-rated. don't most batteries have a 60 month or better warranty? with the first year or two free replacement?
but, at least now you can put all this behind you and go on enjoying that stang.
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2005 Mustang GT M5 -I reject your reality and substitute my own-
I would have negotiated Ford pays for the alternator test too. since you have been back and forth to them many times already and your lights were still flickering. they should have tested the battery back then as part of eliminating possibilities. and the dead battery still doesn't explain why your car was wanting to die when idling.
then, your old battery could probably have been pro-rated. don't most batteries have a 60 month or better warranty? with the first year or two free replacement?
but, at least now you can put all this behind you and go on enjoying that stang.
" hello, acme battery, this is fords. we want a boatload of your cheapest batteries, for the cheapest price that will last 3 years(approx). we`ll just eat the ones for the people that buy extended warranty`s if we have to" but i agree brent05, fords should have checked that right off and should say forget that xtra charge out of customer appreciation. a bad connection or a low battery can cause alternator problem symptoms or make your idle run bad, along with a slew of other odd things.
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goina hundred in a 55, and i dont know why..
some things were just meant to be..
05 V6 auto, torch red, basic, a few mods
06 V6 stick, vista, premium (g/f`s car)
I will be picking it up later today. If I continue to have problems with it I'll scream LEMON LAW! Or not considering it has a $1200 rearend in it now.
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Magnaflow Exhaust
BBK CAI
8.8" Rear 4.10:1Ratio w/ABS w/Trac-LocPinion Cobra Flange.
18' FR500'S Black w/Chrome Lip
Nitto 235/50/R18
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs Front: 1.3” Rear: 1.4”
Visuals: Louvers, Back Window Tint, Front & Back blackouts, Clear corner turnsignal lights, Clear back side bumper lights, 8" shorty, Side stripe removed.
Ok So then it was the battery? Usually when a car is running the alt. Is carrying the load. Not the battery. But I guess if the battery were acting as if it were completely dead and the alt were trying to charge it and then keep up with the rest of the system also, it may create such a drag on the engine as to make the engine idle rough or almost die. That might explain the lights flickering as the engine would be trying die from the drag or load. That would make sense. But I am curious if in the long run it's going to be the battery. But as others have said before here. They should have checked both the alternator and the battery when she first took the car in.
Car was picked up on Friday. They checked the atl and said it's fine. The car is running perfectly. No hick ups at all. It's an expensive lesson to learn but at least it's running right now.
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Magnaflow Exhaust
BBK CAI
8.8" Rear 4.10:1Ratio w/ABS w/Trac-LocPinion Cobra Flange.
18' FR500'S Black w/Chrome Lip
Nitto 235/50/R18
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs Front: 1.3” Rear: 1.4”
Visuals: Louvers, Back Window Tint, Front & Back blackouts, Clear corner turnsignal lights, Clear back side bumper lights, 8" shorty, Side stripe removed.
agree with mustang7, and maybe the owner before you had some "aftermarket" items installed then taken out at time of trade in!? radio,auto start,ect... maybe someone f--up a ground wire when removing said parts??
and dont trust these dealers tech,i'm in the buisness,and meet many great tech's!!! but the majority are a bunch of idiots,the guy who does the 100 point check list is a "b" tech,in other words,he changes oils all day! at least this is what i see all day.
good luck
Look at it this way, when any OEM parts do crap out, it gives you a good excuse to replace them with performance parts
Very true....Too bad my car hasn't had any problems since I bought it. I'd be pissed if I did have problems, but most aftermarket parts are equal to or cheaper than some OEM parts these days.
Goofie.....Glad to hear the car is in good running order. Now you can ENJOY your dream ride.
My .02 cents. First the dealer should have found this right away.
Second and sort of an FYI, some of the posts saying that the car should have ran fine because the alternator would be running the car is incorrect, sort of. The alternator has a cut in speed. At idle in many cars, the alternator is not providing the same juice as it would, say over 1000 rpm. So cars with low idle will run rely more on the battery at low rpms, which is exactly the symptoms this car exhibited. When the car was being driven above idle there was no problem. At idle, the battery could no longer support the load. I am willing to bet if they idled the car above 1200 rpm, after a few seconds things would have appeared normal.
I had some electrical problems shortly after getting my car (had 9,000 miles on it when I got it but it was 2+ years old.) One day I wetn to leave work and it wouldn't start. Dealer replaced the battery under warranty and it has been fine since then over 2+ years. MOral of the story- the stock batteries do not last very long.
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2005 Torch Red V6 Convertible, premium interior with dark charcoal leather. PIE aux input adaptor/XM SkiFi3, GT muffler, K&N drop in air filter, GT front and rear sway bars. CAI and tune in the near future!
but i agree brent05, fords should have checked that right off and should say forget that xtra charge out of customer appreciation. a bad connection or a low battery can cause alternator problem symptoms or make your idle run bad, along with a slew of other odd things.
Or not considering it has a $1200 rearend in it now.
I'd be pissed if I did have problems, but most aftermarket parts are equal to or cheaper than some OEM parts these days.
