I'm having a bit of a problem with the fog lamps on my 2007 V6 Mustang. I've done an entire GT body kit conversion on the car, including the OEM GT grille and fog lights after adding the JBA H-pipe exhaust system.
To accommodate the fog lights, and to avoid chopping up the wiring or having some hokey aftermarket switch, I've installed the OEM Ford headlight switch with fog lamp control. In addition to this, I have replaced the entire wiring harness from the Bussed Electrical Center (fusebox) that drives the headlights, parking/turn lights, horn, and radiator fan with an OEM Ford harness that includes the connectors for the center fog lights (basically what you'd find on a GT). Finally, I installed the OEM Ford control relay in the fuse box for the fogs and the fuse. I reconnected the battery and went to test the lights and the center fogs do not turn on.
Given the fact that this is all pretty much an OEM job with no aftermarket parts involved, I believed the proccess to be relatively straightforward. I've checked the interior headlight switch and the wires are present for the fog lights. I've also checked bulbs in the fog lights, which appear to be fine. The fuse isn't blown and I bought two relays, just in case. Both work fine. If someone has run into this before or has any helpful advice, I'd appreciate any feedback.
I've triple checked all the connections. The bulbs are connected and functional. I ensured the key was in the ON position and even tried it with the car running. I've swapped the fuse and relay just to be sure.
I'm at a complete loss as to why this is happening. This isn't a wire harness hack or some cheesy aftermarket switch I'm installing. These are all Ford OEM parts.
You should get a test light and check where you've got power. Troubleshooting electronics can be a ***** if you dont know what you're doing but a bit of common sense can go a long way.
Remember that you've got a series path for current flow (which is like a straight line). Your circuit should start at the batterys positive terminal and then go through the relay, the fuse, the lights, the headlight switch and should finally end at your negative battery terminal. If the circuit is not complete then you wont get any current flow and hence you will have no power.
If your circuit is complete, you should have 12 volts across your load (lights) when they're on.
A relay is just a switch, dont get confused by it. What a relay does is turn something on and off when the relay is switched on and off. It should have 3 terminals on it; 1 for in, 1 for out, and 1 for switch. What happens is that the in is connected to the power coming in (from the battery), the out is connected to where the power is going out from the relay (to the fuse) and the switch is connected to a 12v source that switches on and off with the ignition. The in and out leads are not normally connected, causing the circuit to stay open. When the car is turned on, the switch recieves power and connects the in and out terminals, enabling power to run through the relay. Its a bit confusing at first but read it a few times and pay attention to the small diagram above and you should figure it out.
Now the other thing i'd check is the switch itself. Even a brand new switch can be broken. So get a 9v battery and a test light. Hook the positive of the battery to one of the terminals on the switch and then hook the other terminal of the switch to the test light and the other side of the test light to the negative of the 9v battery. In the off position the test light should be off and in the on position it should turn on. If not, you've got a faulty switch.
Dang.. That was kind of a long post.
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Black 2005 Mustang v6, 5 speed, IUP, EUP and Leather.
Razzi 1/4 window scoops, Mustang GT Sway Bars, Flowmaster American Thunder Single Exhaust, Clear Front Turn Signal Lenses, Demolet CAI, X-cal2 91 tune, Hurst Comp/Plus Shifter, FRPP T-Lock, Ford 3.73 gears
I've spent most of the day looking into this and from what I've been able to see is that, using a test light, that I have power at the fuse and on two poles on the relay. Specifically, pins 86 and 87. Beyond that, I cannot tell anything else that could possibly be wrong with the setup.
Also you might consider taking out the new wiring harness and reinstalling your old one. Then you could install an aftermarket 'generic' wiring harness with in-line fuse and relay and just wire it up to the GT fog lamp switch. It'd look and act just like a GT fog lamp switch, but the wiring wouldn't be through the fuse box, etc. If you're really good and you take your time you should be able to hide all the wires and make it look stock.
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Black 2005 Mustang v6, 5 speed, IUP, EUP and Leather.
Razzi 1/4 window scoops, Mustang GT Sway Bars, Flowmaster American Thunder Single Exhaust, Clear Front Turn Signal Lenses, Demolet CAI, X-cal2 91 tune, Hurst Comp/Plus Shifter, FRPP T-Lock, Ford 3.73 gears
I'm an electrician by trade and when I started out I remember being told "mother nature doesn't lie, but she is a stickler for details."
So yes, in theory everything 'should' work, but there's obviously something jamming everything up. I found this on another forum in a post talking about a v6 to GT grille conversion... I hope it helps...
"The lights issue. You cannot just change the switch and hope everything will work. The GT and the V6 have a different wiring harness under the hood. The switch in the dash is a low power switch that seems to operate relays to power the fog lights and head lights...so you can't just tap into the switch. If you look in your owners manual you won't even find a fuse or relay for the headlights, only the fog lights and the high beams (but fog lights aren't supported in the V6 Fuse box). Because of the relay system you don't have "old school" on/off power at the head lights and the wiring there is insuficient (we think) to run both the head lights and fog lights anyway. So the best route is to wire a seperate harness that isolates the Fog lights in it's own circuit. Requires no splicing and if you do it right, no one even notices it under the hood. We use a 15 amp in-line fuse to protect your electrical system. The Fog Light bulbs are a new (of course, Ford has to switch things up all the time and use different plugs to keep things interesting) Sylvania #9145 or H10, and you can get the plug with pig tails, to plug right into the fog lights from your Ford Dealer to make the Fog Light end of your harness, if you are going to build it yourself. The motorcraft part number for the plug with pig tails is 1U2Z-14S411-FA and can be obtained through your Ford Dealer."
I took a look at a friend of mine's Stang..he has the same year that I do, except he DOES have the Pony Package installed as a factory option. His fuse box looks no different than mine save for one extra relay and 15 amp fuse which, after checking the manual, is the exact same as my setup. The only thing I can come up with is that the wires from the firewall out to the fuse box are disconnected somewhere under the drivers side front wheel well. I conclude that there must be something missing from the connection from the wheelwell out to the rest of the car, possibly a plug that simply isn't installed correctly. I'll check tomorrow when I get home from work to see if this is the case. If so, I'll punch myself in the face for not thinking of it sooner. If not, I have four options I believe might work. Your invaluable feedback on these are appreciated:
1. Buy the Street Scene wire harness and switch. However, instead of using their two position switch, adapt it so it works with my headlight switch I already have.
2. Take the car to Ford. The dealership has already said they'd help me. Shop rate is $98 an hour though.
3. Take the car to JBA Racing on Saturday. These folks did a great job installing my H pipe exhaust and rear bumper. Shop rate is $95 an hour thought.
4. Using the Ford diagram from the Pony Package installation instructions, create my own harness. Then wire it in myself.
I learned a number of things so far. Ford REALLY means "DO NOT PROBE" the fuse box for starters. While testing the fuse and relay, I got an interesting clicking sound from the other relays followed by an inoperable car that wouldn't start. Odometer showed nothing but ---------- instead of mileage. Pulled the battery and left it off for about 10 minutes, ensured all my connections were tight and right and all fuses/relays were firmly in place and then reconnected it to the battery. She started right up and hasn't complained since but I think I've had enough tooling around with the factory harness.
I believe I can safely replicate the Pony Package harness myself, using correct wires, fuses, and relays. I am good with electronics and computers (sysadmin for a living). I cannot locate the individual pony package wire harness, nor can I get a list of part numbers for the pieces found in the pony package kit itself, otherwise I'd just order the wires themselves and save myself the trouble. JBA Racing has the kit in it's entirety, but they want $350 for the whole kit, and I don't need the switch or the grille. So I'd be stuck with a Pony grille and a spare dash switch to sell off, if that's even possible. Something bothers me about the Street Scene harness too..I really don't care for not using actual Ford parts for something like this.
From what i've learned since I started researching this to help you (and in the future, myself) with this is that the headlight switch isn't a parallel circuit to the rest of the car. Apparently its got something to do with the computer in the car controlling it one way or another and thats not something we're capable of delving into with a soldering iron and a couple screwdrivers.
I'm going to tell you right now that the easiest way to put fog lamps on your car is to wire them in a parallel circuit that draws its remote power from something that turns on only when the car is on. Something like the switched 12v+ for the stereo would work just fine. You'll need a fuse, a relay and your fog lamps as well as a switch. I'm not sure what kind of contacts the GT headlamp switch has on it so its hard for me to say if you'd be able to connect to them or solder to them in order to use that particular switch.
I do know, however, that you can use an aftermarket switch such as the Street Scene one for an application like this, with the only difference being that the aftermarket switch wont look stock. I like I mentioned before, if you're good with a dremel or a drill and a file you should be able to make the right sized hole and square it with the other components on the headlamp switch assembly and make it look, for the most part, like its supposed to be there.
Now i'd also like to say that I dont recommend the Street Scene kit. Their wiring kit is over $80 and its the same thing you get when you buy a generic kit for $25 at Pep Boys. The choice here is obvious if you choose to go the route of custom/aftermarket wiring.
There are tons of kinds of switches out there and some of them can look pretty respectable if you make the right sized hole and you square it up right. Try a google image search of 'on/off rocker switch'.
I've found rocker switches to be my favorite because you can shize up the hole a bit and the bezel around the switch will cover it, making it look nice and neat. I'll try to snap a pic of the switches I have installed in my center console so you can get an idea of what you might be looking at.
If you need a diagram of how the wiring should be then PM me and i'll draw one for you.
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Black 2005 Mustang v6, 5 speed, IUP, EUP and Leather.
Razzi 1/4 window scoops, Mustang GT Sway Bars, Flowmaster American Thunder Single Exhaust, Clear Front Turn Signal Lenses, Demolet CAI, X-cal2 91 tune, Hurst Comp/Plus Shifter, FRPP T-Lock, Ford 3.73 gears
Thanks to your feedback on my dilemma and after checking around, I've decided to go with an aftermarket harness. I'll be taking my car to my friend's drift racing/tuning shop and we'll custom fabricate our own harness using the Pony Package installation instructions (there's a wiring diagram included with it). The only thing I may drop from their diagram is the high beam relay splice as I'm really not interested in chopping into the harness anymore.
Basically the job will cost me parts only. I'm not paying Ford or JBA nearly $100 an hour to tinker with the car and I'm not interested in drilling holes and installing aftermarket switches. The Pony Package diagram shows how to wire the harness to the factory pull-out switch so I don't have to do any drilling or mounting of non-Ford switches. My friend's shop is fully equipped (3 lifts, tons of tools, and all the wires, relays, fuse holders, heat-shrink tubing, and other stuff we'll need).
I'd buy the Stangwires harness but I closed my feeBay account a long time ago. I tried to reopen it some time ago, but they wanted me to jump through a few hundred hoops. So I simply never went back. If you know of anyone who sells it outside of feeBay, I wouldn't mind a link.
Fog lamps don't work on 2007 Mustang V6 
