I'm helping my son install a set of guages on his Procharger blown V6. He has autometer boost/vaccuum, air/fuel (narrow band) and fuel pressure (all electric). He has a remote mounting kit for the FP sensor, but we're struggling with where to tap in to the fuel rail/line. The Ford factor FP sensor doesn't seem to have a schraeder value like my GT does. There are not nipples of any kind on the sensor. Is is safe to just install a T fitting in the fuel line leading to the fuel rails? Will we get a correct reading there?
We're also kind of lost where to hook in the A/F sensor, but that's the next problem after FP. On the happy side, we have all the inside wiring figured out (switched power, dimmer, etc.) and have run the wire loom through an existing large grommet through the firewall (behind the inner fender, passenger side).
I'm going through the same problem, i had to buy a fuel adapter from metco motorsports and then the adapter that came had an o ring that was too small so we're trying again tomorrow
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2006 V6 Pony Package Premium -Mods: 61mm Powerhouse Turbo and Intercooler, Evolution Dyno Tune(Jon Lund), Steeda Performance Shorty Headers. Current Numbers: 350 rwhp/420 torque @ 8.3 psi (low boost)
415 rwhp/470 torque @12 psi Car died 6/23/09
New Set Up: 4.6 3v With Manual Trans, Bolt Ons
Pick up a fuel pressure adapter hose remove the nipple and install your fuel pressur gauge sending unit. The adapter is $16.95 at toolsource.com
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Xcharger with water injection, JBA headers
JBA duals with an H pipe, Roush rear springs, Che K member brace with torque limiters, Cervini's quarter window deletes, Canton polished expansion tank, Roush scoop, Street Scene Elenor grille, custom GT500 chin spoiler, PJ rear louvers, Black rear spoiler, BSM custom stripes, Hurst shifter, Billet interior trim, custom door welts, Autometer dash pod, AEM wideband, Autometer boost & Fuel pressure gauges
Would this T fitting (Mr. Gasket 2975) work as well? I have a section of the fuel line exposed from the fitting to the supply line from the tank up to the driver side fuel rail. There is about 6" of that hose exposed as it runs vertically up the side of the head 7 cam cover. I could cut that hose, install the T and use the autometer steel braided hose (looks to be about 3 or 4 feet long) to run from the T over to the passenger side where I planned to mount the sensor to the inner fender / strut tower.
I couldn't get toolsource.com page to load, no reply...
I would not cut any lines.
Looks like the toolsource site is having problems. The adapter can be found everywhere, I mentioned toolsource because that's where I picked up mine.
Xcharger with water injection, JBA headers
JBA duals with an H pipe, Roush rear springs, Che K member brace with torque limiters, Cervini's quarter window deletes, Canton polished expansion tank, Roush scoop, Street Scene Elenor grille, custom GT500 chin spoiler, PJ rear louvers, Black rear spoiler, BSM custom stripes, Hurst shifter, Billet interior trim, custom door welts, Autometer dash pod, AEM wideband, Autometer boost & Fuel pressure gauges
I must be stupid, blind or stupid blind. I don't find any hose that looks like that picture at toolsource for anywhere near that price. I found some hoses with a fitting near the (top) end, but those all appear to go with some specific tool/gauge. I did find a hose that looks a lot like that one at other websites for around $40. Seems a little pricey just to mount a sensor. Other than risk of leak (which should be minimal with a barbed end and decent clamps) what's wrong with splicing in a T? Is there too much pressure in that hose for that kind of fitting? Everything I've read says to remote mount the sensor to a fender or firewall and not on the engine. Something about vibrations & SC harmonics causing sensor failures. We already popped $35 for the remote mounting braided hose and fittings. I appreciate the advice, but I'm not having any luck so far.
Here is the link to hose I purchased, installed and have been using for a year. I appears the the folks listing the parts are are not linking the proper pics, Sorry Price went up to $16.95
Xcharger with water injection, JBA headers
JBA duals with an H pipe, Roush rear springs, Che K member brace with torque limiters, Cervini's quarter window deletes, Canton polished expansion tank, Roush scoop, Street Scene Elenor grille, custom GT500 chin spoiler, PJ rear louvers, Black rear spoiler, BSM custom stripes, Hurst shifter, Billet interior trim, custom door welts, Autometer dash pod, AEM wideband, Autometer boost & Fuel pressure gauges
Here is the link to hose I purchased, installed and have been using for a year. I appears the the folks listing the parts are are not linking the proper pics, Sorry Price went up to $16.95
Can someone quantify for me what is considered high & low in this case? My sons 4.0 V6 has the Ford factory stock fuel pump and delivery system (except for larger injectors came with the Procharger). I'm not sure what PSI to expect from that (no gauge, duh), so which type (high/low) of hose should we use for this gauge? I still plan to use the AutoMeter remote mounting braided hose to mount the sensor on the fender (not on engine). I also plan to 'bleed' the air out of the braided line after repressurizing the fuel system (assuming air in the line would lead to poor sensor readings).
I really appreciate the assistance. Hopefully someday I'll know something and could actually help someone else. Ah, maybe someday....
Low Pressure CFI
I mounted my autometer sender in place of nipple on the block of the adapter hose. Do you have a pic or link to the autometer sender setup your using?
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Xcharger with water injection, JBA headers
JBA duals with an H pipe, Roush rear springs, Che K member brace with torque limiters, Cervini's quarter window deletes, Canton polished expansion tank, Roush scoop, Street Scene Elenor grille, custom GT500 chin spoiler, PJ rear louvers, Black rear spoiler, BSM custom stripes, Hurst shifter, Billet interior trim, custom door welts, Autometer dash pod, AEM wideband, Autometer boost & Fuel pressure gauges
The gauge is AutoMeter Cobalt electric full sweep, 0-100PSI, ATM-6163. The actual sending unit came with the gauge. It has the threaded fitting on one end and the electrical connector on the other. I'd read that the sender would be adversely affected if mounted directly to fuel rails or engine from vibrations and/or SC harmonics. I assumed that mounting it directly to a T hose, just hanging there jiggling around would have the same negative effect on the lifespan of the sender. The remote mounting kit (basically a 3' braided hose) was recommended by lots of folks. Seemed reasonable to me....
The remote mounting kit/hose is ATM 3227 which we ordered from Summit (below).
I've had mine installed for almost a year, I have an Eaton SC, track the car often and haven't had any issues with vibration. I'm running the Autometer Sport Comp fuel pressure gauge and autometer sender.
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Xcharger with water injection, JBA headers
JBA duals with an H pipe, Roush rear springs, Che K member brace with torque limiters, Cervini's quarter window deletes, Canton polished expansion tank, Roush scoop, Street Scene Elenor grille, custom GT500 chin spoiler, PJ rear louvers, Black rear spoiler, BSM custom stripes, Hurst shifter, Billet interior trim, custom door welts, Autometer dash pod, AEM wideband, Autometer boost & Fuel pressure gauges
He has one of the adapter hoses on order, so we'll give it a try when it arrives. Once the FP sensor issue is solved, we have to get the 3-gauge wiring run from the dash pod to somewhere under the dash. Through the windshield vent is how I hear that being done most frequently. We have identified where to get switched power and dimmer-controlled lighting and have some fused pigtails made up. Then finding a home for the single A/F wire somewhere under the hood and we should be up and running. Thanks for the help everyone. When it's done, I'll post a pic....
2005 Mustang 4.0 fuel pressure gauge install 
