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Old 08-10-2008   #1 (permalink)
amustangrocks is offline Top Dog


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Default 05 rear brake pad replace ordeal

bought the car used, had about 46,000 miles, pads were little less than half left so i wanted to change them. did the frt brakes no problem. so i pull the rear wheels and see the set up for the first time. not sure what to do, replace the wheels, go look for ideas.( this is before i found afm, which would have been great) my g/f`s brother the mechanic says just use needle nose pliars and turn the piston in clockwise. next chance,pulled the wheels, tried that, no way.replace the wheels. went online and a ask the mechanic said try loosening the bleeder valve while turning the piston in. next chance, pulled the wheels, tried that, no way, replaced the wheels.so then i hear about a tool, ran to oreillys auto parts, bought this little cube that has the nubs on each side and fits onto a 3/8 ratchet, about 10.00. next chance, pulled the wheels, this time knowing i got it licked, and it would have worked if i had hulk hogan to turn and push maybe, replaced the wheels. finaly went to a harbor freight tool store and bought a calliper set that came with all the nub options, and a plate that actually pressed the piston in while you turn it, kinda like but opposite a puller, about 25.00. wha-la,,effortless.
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goina hundred in a 55, and i dont know why..
some things were just meant to be..

05 V6 auto, torch red, basic,:cool: a few mods
06 V6 stick, vista, premium (g/f`s car)
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Old 08-10-2008   #2 (permalink)
chopperman is offline Apprentice

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Default

The little knucklebuster block does work, tho a pain in the butt! A tip for using them is to leave one of the caliper bolts in (top or bottom depending on what side your working), tilt the caliper out and put a small block of 2x4 there. It give the perfect size space for cube and the 2x4 absorbs the pressure from twisting them back in.
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