Hi,
I recently purchased a set of Rotors and brake pads from rotorpros.com (just because I was tired of looking at my rusty stock rotor hats behind my shinny wheels). I should have them by next week. Are rotors pretty straight forward to replace? Is there a write up here anywhere that shows how to do it? I looked but didn't see anything.
Thanks!
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2007 Mustang V-6 w/ Pony Package, Automatic Transmission, Performance White w/ painted Vista Blue racing stripes. Current Mods: X-Charger #78, 8.8" GT Take-off rear axle w/ 3.73 gears and T-loc, GT side rocker panels, GT rear bumper, JBA H-pipe and mid-pipes, Dual GTA cat-back mufflers, 14" shorty antenna, 3D Carbon air dam (chin spoiler).
They use Centrics blanks and then drill them themselves, I think Centrics are made in China I have not heard a ton of complants. iRotors are also a good option.
Yes, extremely straight forward and shouldn't take you longer than a couple/few hours even taking your time.
Are you upgrading the fronts at the same time? Just a mater of changing the front caliper brackets (Caliper Anchor Plate), you can then run the larger GT rotors on the front. It's a very nice upgrade for such short money (less than 75$). Infact it can sometimes even be a free upgrade because a lot of places charge more for the 4.0 rotors than the GT's. The ONLY difference is the bracket and the size of the rotors. Pads, calipers, bolts, etc are the same on GT's and 4.0's.
One thing to keep in mind is that the car needs 17" rims, can't do the upgrade if your running 16"s.
Before you even put the jack under the car remove the master cylinder cap.
To do the fronts you just remove the 2 caliper bracket bolts and move the entire assembely out of the way then cut the star washer that holds the rotor on. Colapse the piston then reassemble everything. Don't forget to do the appropriate torque specs (85 front, 76 rear) and locktite on the 2 bolts.
The rears are almost 100% identical with the exception that the pistons do not just push back in, they need to be rotated and pushed at the same time.
Autozone and such usually have caliper tool kits that will take care both the front and rear calipers.
Have a can or 2 of brake cleaner around. Clean everything before putting it together, than give it an additional cleaning before putting the tires back on. Once everythings back together just give the brake pedal a few pumps to seat the pads and extend the pistons. Don't forget to put the master cylinder cap back on after your done! Also, take it easy on the brakes for the first few hundred miles for the pads to seat. Some pads come coated with a seating compound (such as on the EBC Red Stuff's) that I run which helps seat the pads within 25 miles of so.
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06 V6 Vert. Satin Silver. Pony Grille, Roush CAI, Hurst short throw, FRPP Dual exhaust, Roush Styling Bar, SCT with Doug's tunes, 8.8 with 3.73's, GT front and rear sways, Shaftmasters 4" aluminum driveshaft and the "Purple" treatment.
Yes, extremely straight forward and shouldn't take you longer than a couple/few hours even taking your time.
Are you upgrading the fronts at the same time? Just a mater of changing the front caliper brackets (Caliper Anchor Plate), you can then run the larger GT rotors on the front. It's a very nice upgrade for such short money (less than 75$). Infact it can sometimes even be a free upgrade because a lot of places charge more for the 4.0 rotors than the GT's. The ONLY difference is the bracket and the size of the rotors. Pads, calipers, bolts, etc are the same on GT's and 4.0's.
One thing to keep in mind is that the car needs 17" rims, can't do the upgrade if your running 16"s.
Before you even put the jack under the car remove the master cylinder cap.
To do the fronts you just remove the 2 caliper bracket bolts and move the entire assembly out of the way then cut the star washer that holds the rotor on. Colapse the piston then reassemble everything. Don't forget to do the appropriate torque specs (85 front, 76 rear) and locktite on the 2 bolts.
The rears are almost 100% identical with the exception that the pistons do not just push back in, they need to be rotated and pushed at the same time.
Autozone and such usually have caliper tool kits that will take care both the front and rear calipers.
Have a can or 2 of brake cleaner around. Clean everything before putting it together, than give it an additional cleaning before putting the tires back on. Once everythings back together just give the brake pedal a few pumps to seat the pads and extend the pistons. Don't forget to put the master cylinder cap back on after your done! Also, take it easy on the brakes for the first few hundred miles for the pads to seat. Some pads come coated with a seating compound (such as on the EBC Red Stuff's) that I run which helps seat the pads within 25 miles of so.
very well put just do every thing he sed . just have some zip ties for the assembly, dont let it hang . and i dont on if you are getting new pads as well? but i would if your not
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mustang v6, s&b intake, with painted cover flowmaster, 16x7 in front 17x9 in back,with 2 inch drop in the front, costume paint on rims, black grill, with gt fog lights with angel lights, and running mustang, smoked headlights, with headlight splitters, smoked out turning lights, racing stripes, blackout trunk kit, all new audio system, 4 jl audio 5x7 speakers front and back 2 jl 12 inch w6v2 with 2 jl 500/1 amps and pa system 1967 mustang working on
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one act of kindness at a time
Rotor and Pad Replacement 
just do every thing he sed . just have some zip ties for the assembly, dont let it hang . and i dont on if you are getting new pads as well? but i would if your not
