Hi. I bought a pair of tens and an amp and left them in my closet for the longest time and the other day decided it was time to put them in my car. I went to a friends house and he helped me wire the car. We had to put in a hi low level converter and run the power wire underneath the car, we did find that there is a place perfect for running wires from the engine to the trunk under the drivers side. We got everything hookedup and realized that we had no remote wire for the amp. Aside from going to a professional place and letting it be thier headache does anyone know what to do about the remote wire from the shaker 500 head unit? Also would it be possible to use a wire from the sirius box in the trunk, and if so which one?
Thanks ahead of time for any help Josh
Hi. I bought a pair of tens and an amp and left them in my closet for the longest time and the other day decided it was time to put them in my car. I went to a friends house and he helped me wire the car. We had to put in a hi low level converter and run the power wire underneath the car, we did find that there is a place perfect for running wires from the engine to the trunk under the drivers side. We got everything hookedup and realized that we had no remote wire for the amp. Aside from going to a professional place and letting it be thier headache does anyone know what to do about the remote wire from the shaker 500 head unit? Also would it be possible to use a wire from the sirius box in the trunk, and if so which one?
Thanks ahead of time for any help Josh
ok do not drive with that under the car ok on the right side of ur car take the font wheel off and take the splash grade off behind it ther will be a hole in the fire wall right under the battery . it will lead right in to the passenger side and then u can run it under the door seel to the trunk then you will need a line out converter with amp remote switch about $25 then that will tern on ur amp every time u turn it on
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mustang v6, s&b intake, with painted cover flowmaster, 16x7 in front 17x9 in back,with 2 inch drop in the front, costume paint on rims, black grill, with gt fog lights with angel lights, and running mustang, smoked headlights, with headlight splitters, smoked out turning lights, racing stripes, blackout trunk kit, all new audio system, 4 jl audio 5x7 speakers front and back 2 jl 12 inch w6v2 with 2 jl 500/1 amps and pa system 1967 mustang working on
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one act of kindness at a time
I agree with the guys above: If you've run the wire underneath the car and it is exposed then you need to remove it and run it through the cabin. You will be able to get through the fire-wall on the passenger side, either through the wheel well or, if you're really good (like me ) then you'll be able to get through the grommet that comes out directly under the battery.
As for your remote, you can use any switched 12v+ in the car. What this means is that you can use any 12v+ source that turns on when the radio is turned on but turns off when the car is shut off. The radio itself has a 12v+ switch to turn on that should work just fine.
You could also run your remote straight from the battery with a switch in line but that would mean you have to remember to turn the switch on when you want the subs and off when you get out so you dont kill your battery. Not recommended.
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Black 2005 Mustang v6, 5 speed, IUP, EUP and Leather.
Razzi 1/4 window scoops, Mustang GT Sway Bars, Flowmaster American Thunder Single Exhaust, Clear Front Turn Signal Lenses, Demolet CAI, X-cal2 91 tune, Hurst Comp/Plus Shifter, FRPP T-Lock, Ford 3.73 gears
yes listen to Black05pony everything he said is true. i got the mtx thunderform kit which runs straight from the battery and has a ebc=electronic bass controller which i love cause you can control the subwoofer level very easily but like blackpony said you have to remember to turn it on and off. if i leave mine turned all the way up and shut my car down the sub will surge by having very loud short burst of bass it sounds like my car is farting. also in my mustang there was a little panel in the center console which could pop out that made a perfect spot to mount the ebc knob out of sight looks very clean like it was meant to be there
Alright well i am going to reconsider the wiring then. It seems pretty safe for now. None are exposed. But i will change it shortly. As for the remote, i cant pull my stock head unit out, how would i get to the blue remote wire??? Or is that one from the sirius box???
Its easiest just to pull the stock head unit. There's a tutorial floating around on the process of removing it as well as a wiring diagram for the Shaker 500, so you know what wires are what. It requires pulling the center console out as well as a few trim pieces from the dash board. I can pull mine in about 10 minutes but I've pulled mine out 5 or 6 or 8 times.
Shouldn't take you more than 20 minutes to pull yours out the first time.
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Black 2005 Mustang v6, 5 speed, IUP, EUP and Leather.
Razzi 1/4 window scoops, Mustang GT Sway Bars, Flowmaster American Thunder Single Exhaust, Clear Front Turn Signal Lenses, Demolet CAI, X-cal2 91 tune, Hurst Comp/Plus Shifter, FRPP T-Lock, Ford 3.73 gears
Just hook the remote wire to a fuse in the passenger kick panel. Find a fuse that is controlled by ignition. The remote turn-on lead does not draw much of any power.
There is an easier place to run the power wire which doesn't require removing any wheels. On the drivers side on the firewall you will see a patch of wires. There are two preformed holes on that firewall seal. They are the perfect size to run a power wire through. Simply poke one of the holes with a screwdriver, run a coathanger through the hole, and find the other end under the hood. Slip the end of the power wire on the coathanger, wrap it in duct tape, and pull it through. Then run it along the sides. Make sure you don't poke that hole with anything wide. Use a small screwdriver so when you slip the power wire through, it will be a tight fit with no possibility of a leak. Have fun and be safe.
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4.5L Stroker Kit, SSM Custom cams, Wiseco forged pistons, ARP 2000 head studs, Port and Polished Intake Manifold, Mac Long Tube Headers, FRPP Oil Cooling System, 4.10 Gears, K&N Performance Filter, StangWires 8mm Plug Wires, Bosch Platinum 4+ Spark Plugs, 39lb Ford Racing Fuel Injectors, ASP Underdrive pulley kit, MAC Performance Pro Chamber, Flowmaster 40 Series Mufflers, 2.25" dual straight pipes w/o cats, 3" chrome tips, Custom SCT XCalibrator 2 Tune w/ Jet Chip Module, 4" Aluminum Driveshaft
Troubles installing after market subwoofers. 
then you will need a line out converter with amp remote switch about $25 then that will tern on ur amp every time u turn it on
) then you'll be able to get through the grommet that comes out directly under the battery.
It requires pulling the center console out as well as a few trim pieces from the dash board. I can pull mine in about 10 minutes but I've pulled mine out 5 or 6 or 8 times.
