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Old 11-04-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Default whats easiest way to install my gt sway bars?

What the title says. How far do I need to raise the car? how long does it usually take someone with no experience when it comes to underneath the car? can I do it with limited light?
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Old 11-04-2008   #2 (permalink)
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I did mine with a set of Rhino Ramps at about 1:00 in the afternoon in my garage with the door open. Plenty of light. Make sure you tighten the heck out of them and use blue thread-locker to ensure that the nuts don't back off.

I promise that this is one mod you absolutely will not regret. If an intake/tune are the best bang for buck power-wise, GT sways are definitely their suspension-counterpart, being the best bang for buck suspension mod.
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Old 11-04-2008   #3 (permalink)
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Should not take over 3hrs.
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Old 11-04-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spencer88 View Post
Should not take over 3hrs.
I've been told it takes no more than 1 hour.
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Performance: C&L CAI with Xcal 3 Tuner. 93 Race tune by Bamachips. GT sway Bars. 8.8 Rear axle with 4.10 gears. Dual Magnaflow Exhaust.

Not performance... 7 inch In dash Pioneer DVD/touch screen deck, Shaker 500 system, Chrome taillight trim. Sequential taillights. Window tint, Viper alarm with remote start. Cobra radar detector with GPS. Black 18" bullitt wheels with Sumitomo High Performance HTR Z II Tires.
how I pay for my mods: andydew.myvi.net
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Old 11-04-2008   #5 (permalink)
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are there any templates??
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Old 11-04-2008   #6 (permalink)
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It shouldn't take you more than an hour, especially if you know where everything bolts up.

Get a pic online of the way the rear sway bar bolts in and use it as a reference. The front bar is a direct swap using the same hardware.
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Old 11-04-2008   #7 (permalink)
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I can't wait to have them installed! It's just hard to find anyone to help me. I don't have a jack.
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Performance: C&L CAI with Xcal 3 Tuner. 93 Race tune by Bamachips. GT sway Bars. 8.8 Rear axle with 4.10 gears. Dual Magnaflow Exhaust.

Not performance... 7 inch In dash Pioneer DVD/touch screen deck, Shaker 500 system, Chrome taillight trim. Sequential taillights. Window tint, Viper alarm with remote start. Cobra radar detector with GPS. Black 18" bullitt wheels with Sumitomo High Performance HTR Z II Tires.
how I pay for my mods: andydew.myvi.net
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Old 11-04-2008   #8 (permalink)
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The sway bars (Ford calls them "stabilizer bars") should be installed with vehicle weight on the wheels. My way of doing it was to drive the front up on some pieces of 4x6 lumber I cut for just that purpose. That loads the suspension and gives enough room to do what's needed. The fronts can be done with the wheels on; the back ones have to come off, and that means jack stands under the axle or suspension.

It's actually very simple, if you have the parts, 15, 18 mm wrenches/sockets, and reasonable figure-it-out skills. Maybe a look at the service manual will make it easier:
Index of /service_man/Chassis/Suspension

There is one not-so-easy bit: the book says "Do not let the studs in the front bar links turn when you tighten the nuts", or some such. To get torque on the nut, you have to use a "crowfoot" adapter so you can get a grip on the little hex of the stud. Even if you have the wrenches, it's not easy.

I think most folks just grab the no-turn stud with a (6mm?) wrench and crank down the nut (18mm?) as much as they can, with a box-end wrench. The nuts have a tendency to loosen, with or without good torque readings, even with LocTite blue on the threads.

A competent mechanic with the right tools and a lift should be able to remove and replace both bars in an hour or hour and a half, tops. It takes me, old and creaky, two and a half or three, and I have had practice.
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