Background: Today I am getting my 2009 V6 Ponypack (has rigid panhard) lowered (Eibach Pro-Kit) and also installing Steeda strut plates and strut brace. This is my daily driver and I do go over a lot of speed bumps. I plan to get CAI and tune, but likely no more than that in terms of HP. Also installing today FRPP cat-backs.
Questions:
1) What would you say is the likelihood I would need (or should get) an adjustable panhard and why?
2) If I do not, and IF the rear adjusts over on me, can I then get the adj. panhard with no negative consequences?
Need a little schooling...thanks!
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09 V6 Pony Convertible Daily Driver-- Have: FRPP X pipe true dual exhaust, Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs, Steeda camber plates, Steeda strut brace, and some dress-up stuff Next: C&L intake Bamachips combo, 4.10 gears + LSD.
You don't really need an adjustable panhard bar. I suggest a set of polyurethane differential bushings, front/rear control arm bushings and front/rear sway bar bushings. Those will help you out a lot.
You almost certainly will need an adjustable panhard bar. There's a very good chance that your axle will be offcenter. With that said, you can wait and see to be sure and add later if needed. Best way to determine if you need one is to drop a plumb bob from the center/edge of each wheel well to the center cap of the wheel and see what the difference is.
It depends on how far off you are after you're lowered. Some people do, and others don't. It won't hurt too much to drive around for awhile without the adjustable, though. The one I got (the Steeda one) is lighter than stock, so it saves a little unsprung weight, too.
You can measure how far off center your axle is by holding a string with a nut or washer tied to the end, but not touching the ground (poor man's plumb-bob) against the fender, and measuring from the string to the centercap of the wheel on both sides.
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2005 Mustang GT in Torch Red
C&L Cold Air Intake/Diablosport Predator Tune
Tokico D-Spec Shocks & Struts
Steeda Sport Springs/Front and Rear Swaybar/Front Swaybar Brace/LCAs/Adjustable Panhard Bar and Brace
Steeda-branded Borla Stingers
Steeda Underdrive Pullies
1965 "GT" Logo and some other chrome bits
I would also check pinion angle when dropping 1 1/2" or more
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Xcharger with water injection, JBA headers
JBA duals with an H pipe, Roush rear springs, Che K member brace with torque limiters, Cervini's quarter window deletes, Canton polished expansion tank, Roush scoop, Street Scene Elenor grille, custom GT500 chin spoiler, PJ rear louvers, Black rear spoiler, BSM custom stripes, Hurst shifter, Billet interior trim, custom door welts, Autometer dash pod, AEM wideband, Autometer boost & Fuel pressure gauges
Using the plumb test, would one expect the distance to be completely equal between the two sides? Is there any typical variance between the two sides in a "healthy" ride. In other words, how precise do I need to measure, to the 1/8th inch? Or are we talking an inch or two before it is a problem?
Also, does the off-center issue happen at the time of lowering or gradually over time?
Thanks for the lesson
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09 V6 Pony Convertible Daily Driver-- Have: FRPP X pipe true dual exhaust, Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs, Steeda camber plates, Steeda strut brace, and some dress-up stuff Next: C&L intake Bamachips combo, 4.10 gears + LSD.
I would also check pinion angle when dropping 1 1/2" or more
I'll know soon how far the drop is, my guess is about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches. Out of curiosity, does the S197 have any pinion adjustment, or would one need to get an adjustable upper control arm? I always thought pinion was only impacted when the car was raked? But it has been years since I did serious car stuff...you know, when fuel intake was a bolt-on and computers were in universities and not cars!
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09 V6 Pony Convertible Daily Driver-- Have: FRPP X pipe true dual exhaust, Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs, Steeda camber plates, Steeda strut brace, and some dress-up stuff Next: C&L intake Bamachips combo, 4.10 gears + LSD.
Using the plumb test, would one expect the distance to be completely equal between the two sides? Is there any typical variance between the two sides in a "healthy" ride. In other words, how precise do I need to measure, to the 1/8th inch? Or are we talking an inch or two before it is a problem?
Also, does the off-center issue happen at the time of lowering or gradually over time?
Thanks for the lesson
It should be close. However, I've seen some stock cars off from the factory. If it's not visible, I wouldn't worry too much. The problem will be apparent immediately upon lowering...
I'll know soon how far the drop is, my guess is about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches. Out of curiosity, does the S197 have any pinion adjustment, or would one need to get an adjustable upper control arm? I always thought pinion was only impacted when the car was raked? But it has been years since I did serious car stuff...you know, when fuel intake was a bolt-on and computers were in universities and not cars!
Your pinion should be between -1* and -2* on a lowered car (street use). An adjustable UCA is the easiest way to adjust.
How important is an adj. panhard? 
