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Old 04-05-2009   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation Engine Runs hot????

Ok, i had a new radiator, put in because i had a "incident" which messed up the factory one. Well today, i pulled up and asked my dad about why my muffler which kind of skips a little when revved real high. Well he revved it and we noticed it wouldn't rev past 4rpms. Like the timing was off or something. Well we went down the road, and we could get it past 4rpms fine. Well we pulled back up to the house, and just by chance we glanced back at the car, and saw that something was leaking, we looked and found out the engine coolant was leaking. Well the engine was running hot, but the temp. gauge on the dash didn't move???? Weird, we thought maybe the thermometer wasn't open, but what do we know.

Well after a awhile everything settled down and the car was fine, we drove around and everything was ok, we figured since i needed to put free-on in my car, and we had the ac on, that the engine was working to hard to cool the car off and being revved high at the same time, heated it up.

But we aren't mechanics so we don't know.

Ok so my questions are, does Ford have a factory preset that won't let you rev past 4rpm in neutral? Or is my timing off in my car.

Second, when the engine was hot why didn't the temp. gauge go to to the hot side??? It just stayed in the center like normal.

Well on the way home from church I noticed my check engine light came on, but we thought everything was ok, any ideas? or does it just need to be reset?

Any input would be so helpful
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Old 04-05-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Is it posible that it wasn't overheating and maybe there is just a loose hose clamp.
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Old 04-05-2009   #3 (permalink)
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if your way low on coolant, (it was leaking, it wont just stop leaking on its own) the guage might not work. when it leaks, it means it is not ok to keep driving. you need to get that engine light coded and see what it says. and for sure, check out your coolant, lines, hoses, ect.
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Old 04-05-2009   #4 (permalink)
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How do you get your engine light coded?

My cousin is a mechanic and I am going to talk to him tomorrow, but i was just wanted to see what you guys said. The engine coolant was ok, then started leaking, and so we filled it back to where it should be.

Im not sure if it would help, but the guy that is replacing my bumper, said i need a new air condenser or conditioner, i cant remember exactly which one.
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Old 04-06-2009   #5 (permalink)
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Lemme clear up a couple things..

There is a rev limiter on the v6 that only lets you rev up to 4k in neutral and park.

The thing you referred to as a "thermometer" is a "thermostat"

The point of that thermostat is to not allow coolant through the engine until it reaches a certain temperature, as the engine starts heating up the thermostat opens and allows coolant to flow and thats usually when you will see your leak.

The gauge didnt read hot because you more then likely still have coolant running through the engine, just because your leaking doesnt cause the engine to overheat.

If you got a new radiator check the upper radiator hose and make sure that is on there tight, it is usually the source of a coolant leak.

If that does not get rid of the leak then check the Thermostat housing because i just recently replaced mine, it leaked quite a bit and i eventually ran out of coolant and the engine started reading hot but after pulling over it pulled some coolant from the overflow tank and i was able to make it home to identify the problem.

As for your check engine light, i didnt have anything come on for my leak but if you can find out what the code is that would help alot, a local autozone should be able to read it for you or if you have a flash tuner that would work as well.

If you need any help identifying anything PM me or just reply here but most likely the issue is just a hose with a loose clamp on it.
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Old 04-06-2009   #6 (permalink)
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ahhh

thank you for your help
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Old 04-06-2009   #7 (permalink)
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Hopefully you didnt go outside yet to mess with your car but make sure when messing with the hoses your car hasnt been running, you'll end up with coolant all over the place. Without a coolant system pressure tester its kinda of hard to locate the exact spot of the leak
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415 rwhp/470 torque @12 psi Car died 6/23/09
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Old 04-06-2009   #8 (permalink)
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You also don't want to mess with hot coolant. Good way to burn yourself is opening that radiator cap with hot coolant inside.
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Old 04-07-2009   #9 (permalink)
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this may sound simple but did you check your radiator cap? if the cap was loose or damaged it could cause your anti freeze to boil sooner since there is no pressure inside the radiator
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Old 04-07-2009   #10 (permalink)
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No I didn't go mess with it, and as for the cap, the cap was on tight, and perfectly fine.

Anyways I took it up to my cousins today, and he is looking at it. So hopefully i will have some news soon
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Old 04-07-2009   #11 (permalink)
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yeah good luck man
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Old 04-07-2009   #12 (permalink)
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Did you overfill the radiator?
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Old 04-07-2009   #13 (permalink)
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There have been numerous cases of malformed necks on the coolant reservoirs that prevent the cap from sealing properly. Just something else to check.
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Old 04-10-2009   #14 (permalink)
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Ahh its fixed!


The engine was running hot, due to numerous reasons and factors of that day, and the temperature gauge was moving because the thermostat was messed up
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Old 04-10-2009   #15 (permalink)
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can you explain the numerous reasons? The thermostat makes sense but what else?

The thermostat alone could have caused the overheating, if it did not fully open or open at all at operating temps then you overheat
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Current Numbers:
350 rwhp/420 torque @ 8.3 psi (low boost)
415 rwhp/470 torque @12 psi Car died 6/23/09
New Set Up: 4.6 3v With Manual Trans, Bolt Ons
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