witch clutch would you guys reccomend, those of you who have ran spec clutches
stage 1 organic, or stage 2 kevlar?
i dont think ill ever get to teh stage 2 399 FT LBS
and im prolly not at the 340 FT LB stage 1....
but witch one would last the longest you think? or do they have pretty even wear characteristics?
ill be the first to admit im hard on my clutch. thats prolly part of the reason the oem clutch only made it 60k ( ive had the car for 30 k ) hehe
it should be able to take soem abuse.
but as long as i get 60 K ill be happy but id love it to go longer
I run Spec Stage 1 in my '00GT and love it.
By the way, we are a Spec distributor and the numbers you put up are not the same as what I have listed.
The Stage 1 is an organic clutch disc setup and is rated at 480ft/lbs.
The Stage 2 is a Kevlar friction material and is rated at 550-560 ft/lbs.
The Stage 2+ is a carbon-kevlar material, rated at 600-620ft/lbs.
The stage 3 is a puck style disc (6 pucks instead of a full face), carbon metallic material, rated at 650-680ft/lbs.
... and the big boy, the Stage 3+ is a carbon metallic, full face disc rated at 750-800ft/lbs.
Of all the clutch brands we sell, I easily sell 3 to 1 Spec over any other brand and I have never had any complaints about them. The only thing I can tell you for sure is once you get byond the Stage 1, they become very grabby. There is no slipping them, they are either engaged or dis-engaged. The Stage 3+ is extremely grabby and not recommended for a stock driveline. You really need an upgraded transmission and u-joints to be able to run the Stage 3+ with confidence. The stage 3, the puck style disc, is prone to chatter because it is a puck style instead of a full face. Other than that, there isn't much else I can say about them other than I swear by them.
I have one of our T45RS proto-type transmissions with the 26 spline input and more mods inside the gearbox and therefore, had to go to an upgraded clutch. This is when I switched over to Spec, so I could have personal experience with them, other than just hearsay. I will never run anything else but a Spec in my car.
Richard
Tech Support
Tremec TKO, T45 & T56 Transmission Systems
Go with PI heads and quit watching The Fast and the Furious. (thanks 2 IhaveadopeGT)
Remember, it is almost impossible for anyone, myself included, to diagnose a problem over the internet without seeing the car. My advice is simply that, advice based on years of experience. I don't want you or anyone taking my word as gospel. I am trying to give some direction as to what I think may be happening.
id go stage 2. my buddy has an ol fox body...pounding about 450hp and he used to run through stage 1s in less than a year. he moved up to a stage 2 and ended the problem. he bracket races on a regular basis, and he is as about as hard as u can be on the clutch. i know its a totally different setup for him, but if just that made a difference, sounds like youll save a ton of money on the stage 2 in the long run.(especially if you plan on f/i and othe major motor mods in the future)
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2006 4.0 V6 Mustang/X Charger #128 Mods: Too many, check out my profile. Probably currently under modification...
like he said before...overkill aint always bad. whats more fun in your opinion...deer hunting with a pistol or deer hunting with anti tank military rounds? eh....yea easy question unless youre a conservation officer
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2006 4.0 V6 Mustang/X Charger #128 Mods: Too many, check out my profile. Probably currently under modification...
haha, yea. i like my xp100 pistol. custom bore to fit a .300 savage round. itll pick em off at 400yards. but my TC pro hunter works nice too....aint missed yet!
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2006 4.0 V6 Mustang/X Charger #128 Mods: Too many, check out my profile. Probably currently under modification...
spec stage 1 or 2? 
(thanks 2 IhaveadopeGT)
